Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles question for stock painters

Experimental phase continued.... LOL

HiVis


Shateeka


TropicalDelight


Hank'sSavage


4-pack


Flectone3fer

If I wrote more in this post, I'd just be say'n what already been said here. I used to use Duracoat, but don;t any more. It's too messy, expensive and hard to remove if you want to get it off. Krylon Camo holds up well and can be stripped off if so desired. I think a sponge camo job is the easiest camo to do. It's hard to screw it up. If the stock is already black, no base coat. I use satin clear, but not really necessary, I may stop using it. RJ

I like a lighter color for the base and darker colors for the shadows. Of course, it depends on what you are going for but this type of camo pattern blends in well around here.

[quote=Beaver10]These one of a kind paint jobs can only be done by a skilled professional.

Taking orders, now!

😜😎🤦🏾‍♀️


This one has been called “Fruit Cake Puke”



This one “Cat Scratch Fever

I'm sure your phone is ringing off the hook, after that one

BS would pay top dollar for this if you could find matching fruit cake puke electrical tape. 😂😇

Man, you fellas do some sexy work...even the fruit cake.

Fresh paint. Switched barrels back to 308

A bit of shine from even a matte clear can be knocked down using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser.

Just buff it (says Kavanagh).

Cell phone camera flash

How long do you like to wait before coating? Is 24 hours long enough to let paint dry/gas off?

Like!
Laffin ...

I use a blow dryer o high heat to dry it really good

MtnBoomer those "flectones"look great! How did you get the even speckles? Flicked on with a brush or something?

I let everything dry for about 24hrs before putting on another coat, and thats in warm temps (75+) with low humidity

Usually the can or spec sheet will indicate a re-coat time frame. Something like a couple hour is plenty good. Just don't try to put a bunch of layers on immediately following each other, especially if cooler. Most products have a range of time that's ideal, not just the minimum, because the stuff adheres better to each other when not fully cured.




Thanks. Wood stocks that needed lots of prep.

Spray guns and air brushes.

HiVis and Dexter were flicked.

Yours look great. Real flat.

I swear, I’m absolutely the worst stock painter that held a spray can.

I tried to sell these new stocks on a forum as painted...Nobody wanted either one.

I hung them both up on a wire, flat coated them in black.

They both sold in a week.

😎

I use Brownells Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II epoxy as an overcoat. Tough as nails.

I’ve used other clear coats and they’re no where near as durable. I’ve gone without any overcoat and the stuff chips with a stern look.

My experience is one can go without an overcoat if they don’t mind repainting or having numerous chips.

I grabbed some Rustoleum 2x matte clear but per the can, I missed the inside 48 hr window, so am waiting to coat.

The stinky smelling " Painters Touch". Stuff gives me a migraine. I spray outside and hang in garage to dry.
Even the ol lady says its horrible

If you screw it up Acetone and a bunch of paper towels will remove the paint/ clear from a plastic stock. Remington and TC Contender stocks unaffected