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Correct me at any time if I am wrong. A 4 MOA gong at 200 yards would be 8"x8". Suppose I am sighted in for 300 yards and my bullet would hit 16 inches low at 400yards, to bring the bullet up the 16 inches I would turn the turret counter clockwise 16 clicks (1/4 MOA clicks) right? This said true MOA is a bit bigger than 1", 1.047 to be exact. Are the adjustments on scopes actual MOA or are they 1."? Or if I were trying to bring my POI up say 60 inches at 700 yards each click being approximately 1.75" I would need to turn the turret 34-35 clicks counter clockwise? The scope in question being a SWFA 10x42 Classic with MOA turrets.

Last edited by rickt300; 05/19/20.

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You're on the right track but stop thinking clicks and start thinking MOA, like the numbers on your turret.


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The scope adjustments are supposed to be MOA, but that needs to be measured and confirmed. The biggest favor you can do for yourself is to get a SWFA 10x42 with matching MOA reticle and turret (or matching in MRAD), and simply use the reticle to measure how low your shot lands. Then dial this number into the turret. Given your current scope, you can use the mil-dot reticle to measure how low your shot is and multiply that by 3.438 to get the number of MOA to dial into the turret. If you insist on using inches (the most complicated and least effective way to do it), then you can take the distance of the POI from the POA, divide that by the distance in yards, times by 100, divide by 1.047, and dial that into your elevation turret.

If you need to come up 16" at 400 yards, then

16" / 400 * 100 / 1.047 = 3.82 MOA

So if your turret is set to "0" with your 300 yard zero, then simply dial up to 3.75 MOA ("3" plus 3 clicks).

If you need to come up 60" at 700 yards, then

60" / 700 * 100 / 1.047 = 8.19 MOA

So dial from "0" to 8.25 MOA ("8" plus 1 click).

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Cool thanks for the info.


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jbmballistics.com is a good place to get familiar with.

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Excellent site!


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Hold steady on the target, dial to the hit and shoot.

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Much can be learned by reading!


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Well done some reading, extrapolated some data and played with the scope now on a 243 to test it. I like the scope a lot other than it's weight and I need to get used to the windage knob sticking out so far to the right. All I need to so now is do some more load testing and head out to the range, hoping for first round hits out to 600 yards ( as long as there is lead in the air there's hope).


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What are you shooting?
220gr. RN?

Or is this a theoretical numbers game?

(Just looked at a table of trajectory data out of curiosity)


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Originally Posted by rickt300
Correct me at any time if I am wrong. A 4 MOA gong at 200 yards would be 8"x8". Suppose I am sighted in for 300 yards and my bullet would hit 16 inches low at 400yards, to bring the bullet up the 16 inches I would turn the turret counter clockwise 16 clicks (1/4 MOA clicks) right? This said true MOA is a bit bigger than 1", 1.047 to be exact. Are the adjustments on scopes actual MOA or are they 1."? Or if I were trying to bring my POI up say 60 inches at 700 yards each click being approximately 1.75" I would need to turn the turret 34-35 clicks counter clockwise? The scope in question being a SWFA 10x42 Classic with MOA turrets.


Zero at 100. Enter data in JBM at 700 yards using Litz measured BC profile, if Litz data isn’t available reduce BC by 10%. Shoot a group at 700 and confirm dope, find dial MOA or MiLS that equal your elevation at 700. Go back to JBM and tweak velocity so drop matches reality. Print dope on paper, and make cards for elevation you will be shooting at if it’s different from you zero elevation. Done. Never....count....clicks....again. Range , read dope chart, dial and shoot. Done.

Unless you are shooting past 700 yards.


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Why count clicks if you shoot past 700 yards? Not many critters will stand still long enuff to count that frigging many clicks....

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applied ballistic is another good calculator

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You guys are zeroing at 100? What's the benefit over picking 100 zero over a 200 zero for rounds that shoot as flat as a 243 for non-caliber-specific dials? I've been using a 200 zero. Haven't seen any problems. I'm usually an inch high at 100, which is not a hamper to hitting anything I shoot at.


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Easier to find a place to confirm zero in the field at 100 yards.

Just spin your dial to 200 dope when hunting, presto - same thing.


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Originally Posted by SeanD
Easier to find a place to confirm zero in the field at 100 yards.

Just spin your dial to 200 dope when hunting, presto - same thing.

Ah. Makes sense, but I don't shoot at ranges anymore, so I don't worry about that, and I'd feel retarded dialing for a 200 yd shot. I'll stick with my 200 yd zero.


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Here's an example from real life. I didn't count clicks. I figured 1" equals 1MOA. I dialed the turret up the required amount.

Yesterday, 6/29/20, I took my 8mmCoyle to the range for final zero at 300 yards with the Hammer Hunter 198 grain bullets. I fired three which formed a 3 5/8” group about 3” below aiming point. Perfect. Then I did something with my Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 Elite that I never tried before. According to JBM I needed to dial up 3 1/2 minutes to hit at 425 yards and 5 1/2 minutes to hit at 500 yards. There is a 10” plate at 423 yards. I twisted 3 1/2 minutes and hit the plate. Then I returned to zero and fired two more which were inside the group. Next I dialed up 5 ½ minutes and hit the 10” plate at 508 yards. Returned to zero and fired two more inside the group. Average velocity from the 24" barrel is 3,054 feet per second. The Weatherby six lug rifle weighs 7 1/4 pounds ready for hunting.

New barrel fired 44 times


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Originally Posted by Ringman
Here's an example from real life. I didn't count clicks. I figured 1" equals 1MOA. I dialed the turret up the required amount.

Yesterday, 6/29/20, I took my 8mmCoyle to the range for final zero at 300 yards with the Hammer Hunter 198 grain bullets. I fired three which formed a 3 5/8” group about 3” below aiming point. Perfect. Then I did something with my Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 Elite that I never tried before. According to JBM I needed to dial up 3 1/2 minutes to hit at 425 yards and 5 1/2 minutes to hit at 500 yards. There is a 10” plate at 423 yards. I twisted 3 1/2 minutes and hit the plate. Then I returned to zero and fired two more which were inside the group. Next I dialed up 5 ½ minutes and hit the 10” plate at 508 yards. Returned to zero and fired two more inside the group. Average velocity from the 24" barrel is 3,054 feet per second. The Weatherby six lug rifle weighs 7 1/4 pounds ready for hunting.

New barrel fired 44 times


Outstanding! Agreed on not counting clicks. Have played some with the dials and pretty much have it down now. Still in my case if the wind is much over 10 mph and the distance over 400 yards things are getting a bit dicey.


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Wind? For me that ain't happenin'.


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Originally Posted by HuntnShoot
Originally Posted by SeanD
Easier to find a place to confirm zero in the field at 100 yards.

Just spin your dial to 200 dope when hunting, presto - same thing.

Ah. Makes sense, but I don't shoot at ranges anymore, so I don't worry about that, and I'd feel retarded dialing for a 200 yd shot. I'll stick with my 200 yd zero.



I think you missed the point.

Field confirmation (not shooting range) is just a little more convenient. Like say your rifle takes a tumble and you whacked the scope hard on a rock.

Just set it at 0.5 mil/1.5 MOA, or whatever fits your needs so you can shoot as far as makes sense to you without dialing, and leave it there. All the time. Unless you need to dial for a shot farther then your “field zero”. Field zero can be 200, 250, whatever makes sense for your load/conditions.

The bigger point is don’t be messing with dials when you should be shooting game. Dialing up from a 100 zero for a 200 yard shot when an elk is standing there is just silly.


Sean

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