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Joined: Feb 2003
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Ss - thanks for the thoughts. It does have a chamber near min specs but is within spec. I was skeptical at first but checked it myself.

I probably could have explained a bit better........ I do take pains to not over-size brass.

I dont think I'm overworking the brass doing what I'm doing. I'm on 8-9-10 firings with that particular lot of 100. I anneal every 2-3 firings and keep on trucking. The gun is really accurate as it's set up with my loads and current practices. I'm not inclined to touch or change anything. The mojo is working as is......... cool


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Originally Posted by Woodhits
Headspace gauges are your friend. It’s possible that the smith who chambered it didn’t sufficiently allow for the “crush” of tightening the barrel (which seems to be around .003” on most rifles). I’ve done it and had to deepen the chamber a hair. On hunting rifles, I’ve gravitated toward a slightly more generous headspace since reliability is paramount.

A gauge would rule this out as the source of your problem. Remove the ejector and firing pin assembly, clean the chamber and see if the bolt will drop with the “go” gauge inserted.



I would agree with the above. Headspace should also be checked after chambering, this will allow for the elastic stretching of the threads which can account for .002-.003 tightening up.

Winchester brass runs on the smallish side to begin with.

European brass runs larger in the Web, and usually use a CIP designed reamer vs SAAMI to avoid problems.

Last edited by keith; 07/05/20.
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BW,

I run mine fairly tight too, and have accidentally bumped my shoulders with the seating die... but I love one hole wonder so I don’t touch them either ..

smile Rock on

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Originally Posted by McInnis
Thank you all for the good advice. I did have my sizing die set up wrong for sure. I didn't read the RCBS directions because I've done it so many times but it's been a few years since I set up a set of dies for a new cartridge.

As for as my gunsmith, I know what he will say, 'I told you not to use cheap brass and you need to get a set of match grade dies" because I've heard him say that before. He's a serious accuracy freak. I went to the range this morning and fired 16 rounds (got one 3 shot 1/8" group at 100 yds, so no problem there). I did use Lapua brass and none of them failed to chamber.

Since the guy who built this rifle is here in town, if it ever happens with Lapua brass I'll head straight to his shop and get him to show me what's wrong.

Thank you all again.


And sometimes it doesn’t matter if you are setting up the die correctly, if there’s a problem in the rifle. Good to hear you have yours sorted.

A story of my own, I once had a fine gunsmith do the metal work on a rifle and sent it out for stock work and bluing. Somewhere along the way the barrel got taken off and not screwed in the right distance. I tried to chamber rounds and no joy. I tried pretty much everything I could think of die wise to form the cases smaller. Finally I called the metalwork gunsmith and sent the rifle back. Probably took him 15 minutes to fix it because the index marks he had made weren’t lined up.

And I would prefer if all FL dies were ‘screw in until firm contact with shellholder’ was the required setup!

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Sounds like your good to go. Me I would keep tinkering. First I would get a Lee Collet Die and second I would hone or have RCBS hone the FL sizer to your chamber. I might even take the seater die to the gun smith and have him re-ream it with the chamber reamer he used on your rifle. You are already getting good accuracy so debatable how much more these steps would give you, but they are likely to provide some improvement, possibly a lot.


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What is meant by honing the FL die to the chamber?

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You can not ream a sizing die with a chamber reamer.
OP- I would just keep shooting and loading Lapua brass and not worry about it. Setup your FL die to bump the shoulder about .002 and go shoot!

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