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Joined: Apr 2001
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It's been a few years since I've have a rifle "assembled". Wanted some public opinion and guidance, as I am generally in the Know on most things/parts, however with the recent fame of PRS/NRL type events and everyone getting into the custom rifle game in the last 4-5 years, there are so many small guy parts being made I can't keep track of them.

Being a Lefty I was able to capitalize on the LRI Left handed Blueprint run and snagged a worked over LH Remington 700 LA Mag bolt face. I intend to have a 338 built off this action. Action has no trigger or bottom metal. In my other builds it was generally off a full barreled action and throw most parts away, not starting from scratch.

My biggest concern is over bottom metal and magazines. With 338 Win Mag, I don't THINK I need anything extreme like a Wyatt's but I am not certain. I did have one Wyatt's Magnum box installed on an action I no longer have on a RUM conversion many years ago. Had the middle screw area milled out. Not sure that's a requirement/necessity with this build? I don't forsee any need for M5 type bottom metal. No DBM that I can envision. Missing anything here?

I've had several rifles that just never seem to feed correctly. I would like to get this correct from Jump. I live and hunt in Grizzly country and this rifle is being built for african plains game in hopefully 2021. I would like it to feed reliably.

Recoil lug. Think standard is .187"???? Is there any reason or need to go larger? I've had rifles rebarreled and left with ALL SORTS of shank left on them. Have a 223 AI that drives me nuts with what I swear is 4" of full diameter shank forward of the recoil lug. I have left this box unchecked in most cases and allowed the Smith to "do what is normal" and been bitten more than once. Is there a standard request or dimension?

This comes up when ordering a stock as well. I will be ordering a McMillan of some flavor this week. I'm quite set on a Bartlein 3 or 3B for this build. But I think I will need some clue on shank length for my stock order? Any guidance here would be appreciated.

Lefty triggers are not impossible to find. I generally throw a wide shoe Timney in most of my rifles. Missing anything here? More robust or reliable models avail in Left Hand??


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I’d give trigger tech a look. Don’t know if they do lefty or not

BDL bottom metal would be my choice. Why over complicate it?

Bart 3 with 1” shank in a Mickey Classic would be sweet

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If you order a barrel pre-profiled, it will come with the shank already turned. So, check the barrel manufacturers's websites for what they have listed for their dimensions and see if it suits your tastes... if you have the gunsmith turn the blank, you will end up with whatever he feels like turning most days and some smiths are better at setting up and turning shanks than others... best to just order a profiled barrel and avoid the issue and cost...

I've been using Timney triggers for quite a while and never had any complaints...

Since you have to have the barrel cut, threaded, chambered , and headspaced to your action, it doesn't really matter which recoil lug you use as it will be figured into the dimensions of the tenon when the barrel is threaded. Most of the time an aftermarket recoil lug is spec'd is because they tend to be more accurately machined and won't affect the barrel installation like a poorly machined factory lug might... Personally, I prefer a .250 recoil lug on a magnum cartridge, but that is just me- it probably isn't necessary..

A Remington LA bottom metal should work more than fine for a 338, but if you need a bit of extra length for long bullets, you can always go to the 300 RUM bottom metal and mag box and still use factory parts or PTG metal...

Bob


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I'd keep it simple too, rem mag contour, bdl bottom medal, pillars installed factory recoil lug. I love a good 338.


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Originally Posted by Judman
I'd keep it simple too, rem mag contour, bdl bottom medal, pillars installed factory recoil lug. I love a good 338.



Same here, SAMMI chamber and maybe a 9 twist if you wanted to go wild with the longer .338 bullets out there. If not, a good old 10 twist will do a pile of work. Lots of space in the Remington magazine as well. No sense spending a pile of money you don't need to.


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Or, you could skip the bottom metal and have an ADL.


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Yep I’ve several adl’s


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Hard No on the ADL


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Yup. No way I'd have a rifle that will be carried where nasty things live, that didn't have a way to dump the mag in case of a snafu. The blind mag is the only sorta-issue I have with my Fieldcraft, which won't ever be in that situation here.


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Some time in the early 90's I bought a Mod. 70 "Classic Stainless" and sent it and Ted Blackburn's one piece drop belly magazine to Mark Bansner's and had his shop put one of their wonderful synthetic stocks on it in Confederate Grey. Put some NECG iron sights on it and slicked the action up and had the smith weld the pressed on bolt collar sleeve to the bolt. I cut the barrel from 26 to 23 inches and replaced the follower and extractor with spring steel ones. The crisp trigger is a bit over 2.75 lbs.

Originally I was going to put a Krieger barrel on it, but decided to put some rounds through it to see how it shot. I am so glad I did not replace that superb factory barrel. It shoots Barnes 225 and 250 grain bullets very well. TSX or TTSX, etc. and it has never met a Barnes X it does not like and has had no other bullet down its bore.

The scope is a Knightforce 3-10x42 SHV with a black leather Montana rifle sling. It is my idea of what an Alaskan .338 Win. mag. should be like and has been my main "go to" rifle since the early 90's. It will be passed on when I leave this earth.

My advice is to go slow and make it how you want it, we all have our idea of how a rife should be put together.


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Mcmillan's shank length measurement is measured from the action face to the end of the full diameter shank that you wish to have (by shank I mean barrel tenon - the thick part. Don't mind those talking about turning down the shank they think you mean something else I believe. Remember the measurement includes the recoil lug.

On my last 2 Mcmillans I ordered a 1" shank and specced a .250" recoil lug. So that means I'll have a .250" lug and then .750" of full diameter barrel shank.

The chamberings that I shoot are no where near as big as a 338 so I could see you extending that a hair to 1.25" or even 1.5" but no less than 1". 1" to 1.25" might be just right.

When you speak to the gunsmith give him the same request for your finished shank length, or simply say "cut shank length to fit stock inlet".

Trigger tech for a trigger.

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Agree with the others on most points. I like the PT&D Obendorf bottom metal and a factory mag box should be fine, a good smith can make it feed flawlessly. Order early as PT&D works on a rotation basis and if not in stock could be months for delivery.

The shank gear it to the stock as BD and other posted or even shorter for weight reduction. A Bartlien #3 seems portly to me a 2 or 2B seems more reasonable especially for an elk rifle, but this is personal preference and any barrel can be balanced out with a little weight. Another Trigger Tech fan here too, they have a good reputation for working even when gunked up. Way better than a Jewell which I have personally knocked out of commission.

You may want a barrel band swivel especially if you don't shoot with a sling. Keeps the barrel lower when shouldered, sits on the bags more easily and you will never nick your hand if you reach forward excessively.

Recoil lug as posted is more for the tolerances but while you are at it might as well go 0.25" for added stiffness.

I would not get Mag Fill although I believe that the 338 is the cut off point for McMillan recommending the extra fill or actually I think it is extra glass. Might ask them if they have seen any issues with this, but they will advise on the cautious side, but it could affect any warranty work.


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