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hookeye Offline OP
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Was bare shaft testing and making some progress.
Then "pop".

Am down til it gets replaced......just ordered a new cable from G string Bowstrings.
Only 20 bucks. Not hard to change either.

Back up and running by end of the week hopefully.

However, with this old compound, and my old recurve, and 4 diff sizes of arrows (from other bows)...........

am really close to getting rid of it all and starting from scratch.

The witch says I shot my PSA widow great and ought to have another made (lesser #).
Kinda hard to argue that.

And dumping my current bows will pay for most of a new one.

Hmmmmmm.

Wish the Hoyt Sartori wasn't so ugly.

Last edited by hookeye; 07/05/20.
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Must say the Oneida in Michigan Autumn camo is a pretty SOB
Def need a cushion plunger type of rest.
Tried NAP flipper Centerest on this one and a prev one and never could get as clean a launch as I liked.
The old GK Huntmaster 2000 was a damn good fingers rest.
Had one on my Strike Eagle and it shot great.

Hell, had one on my Hoyt Protec shot w release....wonderful.

Last edited by hookeye; 07/05/20.
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Agreed. Time to clean house and get a fresh start. New compound. New recurve. New long bow. Couple dozen arrow per. Sights, quivers, field points, broadheads, silencer, releases, glove/tab, etc. $2000 to $3000 should get you started!!

Used bows don't usually bring much. You might be better off donating them to a museum and use it as a tax deduction!

Post pics along the way.

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hookeye Offline OP
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Buying new and selling used, tend to lose your ass with archery gear.

I've been running used gear, and can buy, shoot a couple years and sell, for what I paid.
They are Blackwidows though wink

And Oneidas. I don'tt pay the silly Ebay prices for my cam/lever bows..
My Aeroforce is in Michigan Autumn camo, and has the short cams, and has 28" 50% letoff modules (b*tch to find).
With new string and timing cable I might lose a little, but not much.

It is not the common config. Most of em are way long draw.

BTW, took me over three years to find a FF rated Blackwidow HS 58" under 60#.
Paid 400 for it w chipped riser paint. It looks new now.

I won't sell it for less than 400. Got 350 out of my last non FF rated one (and paid 350 for it).

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hookeye Offline OP
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A new Widow is around 1100 bucks.
I should test drive a 56" PCH at 48# first.
If I don't like it, will go back to a PSA, 58".

Had one built for 860 back in the day (2001).
Quiver and arrows, total was around a K.
Shot the pizz out of it for 5 yrs, sold for 500 in a flash.
Cost me 100 bucks a year, to win 3d shoots, have a blast w friends and kill deer.

Pretty cheap entertainment.

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While I'd like a new recurve, I am nothing special and don't need brand new.
I don't like extra bushings in risers and most used ones have em.

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Had an Oneida strike eagle back in the late 80's . Nice shooting bows but it sounded like 2 2x4's hitting each other when I released the shot. They sure have loyal followers.

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The strike eagle was proly the most quiet.
I had one when they first came out.
2317 shafts and it was fine.
84#

It was a beast.

I did not like the star washer/ screw on timing wheel. Thought they were easier to bump off setting. Of course all you did was loosen, it slid back abd retighten. Bump an outboard limb like when you slipped or fell....and had to undo and retighten.

Think the Aeroforce timing system may have been more robust.

They ( cam lever bows ) draw so smooth. Why they have a cult following.

Many back in the day didnt know how to tune em
Some were painfully loud

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Originally Posted by hookeye
The strike eagle was proly the most quiet.
I had one when they first came out.
2317 shafts and it was fine.
84#

It was a beast.

I did not like the star washer/ screw on timing wheel. Thought they were easier to bump off setting. Of course all you did was loosen, it slid back abd retighten. Bump an outboard limb like when you slipped or fell....and had to undo and retighten.

Think the Aeroforce timing system may have been more robust.

They ( cam lever bows ) draw so smooth. Why they have a cult following.

Many back in the day didnt know how to tune em
Some were painfully loud


I remember the star washer . I brought mine back to the pro shop I bought it at and they could never get it really quieted down. They were easily the best drawing compound bow.

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hookeye Offline OP
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A flemish string helps
Endless loop has a bit of a knot where loop ends and that makes for a hefty limb slapper.

I run flemish on all my recurves.
Still see shops sell or make endless loop strings for recurves and they just wont listen.

Can buy an OK flemish for $15 at 3R.
Mucho bettero

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They still make them Oneidas? Had a buddy of my Dads that had one of those years ago,thought it was cooler than hell.

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hookeye Offline OP
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Bass Pro guys son bought em.
So yeah, they still make em ( Oneida ).

Phoenix model (machined riser) and Osprey (cast riser).
The Osprey has 50# max weight and other differences.........is mostly for bowfishing. Phoenix has higher draw weight and more let off options IIRC

Oneida labs, then Oneida, then CPO Oneida, now BP Oneida. Think that's how the progression went.
There are boutique shops that make their own cam/lever and lever bows.

G Rex is one.

Now the Chinese make lever bows, sold under the RPM Bowfishing brand. Think the Muzzy LVX is Chinese too.

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Cables and some parts for older Oneida bows can be had at G String bowstrings and Honey Creek Archery.
The latter does rebuilds too.
Joe at American Eagle did his own bows and aftermarket parts for Oneidas, but I think some health issues has him slowed down.
Dunno if 5150 does anything now.

Best place for info, parts or rebuild.............Facebook "Lever Lovers" group.

Last edited by hookeye; 07/09/20.
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Well I hadn't done one for 10 yrs, had a few beers since then. Indeed, it was how I remembered.
But with pylons visibility sucked, add in no real workbench/good lighting.........and bifocals........it took longer than it should.
Kid held a light and it went right together then.

There is a non pylon Oneida timing cable vid on YT and it goes the same way, think take up wheel is on other end though. Same principle.

Nutshell (pylon models)

Pop grip and pylons on timing wheel side.

Cable swedge goes to the take up timing wheel.
Pull cable from swedge to find center of the loop end.

That goes in first, on the other wheel (secured by screwwasher).
Not crossing cables, put the swedge into the other wheel and out through the hole.
Put swedge in adjuster pc and insert into wheel.
Then put on pylons and route cables over idlers.
Put the grip back on and set timing cable tension.

Yes, it is that easy.

Any other way though would proly resemble a goat fuggin contest.


Last edited by hookeye; 07/11/20.
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Bi, tri, and hectafocals are misery for close up work. I'm constantly tempted to take them off then remember i don't want something sticking in my eye! So I leave then on.

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Back in one piece

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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In less than bright sunlight the colors/contrast are more.........downright pretty.

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Nice!

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hookeye Offline OP
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I really need to win a bit of lottery and have a custom cam lever bow made.

They are cool, but the AF/ Strike Eagle risers are too fat at the front of the grip.

Was wanting an LFM but none around at sane prices

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This one may be sold to a collector, for a total rebuild.
Dunno yet.

If he doesnt want it, Ill keep farting with it.

Shooting compounds fingers is fun.

Amazing how many archers these days have never done it


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