Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns ..hard cast?

Might wanna get out of the room when you're baking cookies; its making you take this stuff too personally!

So when you initially apply the paint coating, you apply it at 450 degrees for an hour, assuming you want treated bullets?

SOFT, MEDIUM SOFT, MEDIUM, MEDIUM HARD, HARD, SUPER HARD.
That is the question. Only the Illuminated Illuminati knows. The secrecy only the most Illuminated Illuminati know. They know everything.
Especially when it comes to bullet test videos.

Interesting video but not my experience.

I recovered an Underwood 200gr that was shot from my G20 to finish about a 375 lb bear at about 10 yds. At the shot the bear lifted his head and the bullet struck him in the right cheek, smashed 4 vertebrae front to back and was recovered just in front of the left rear hip.

The bullet has rifling marks and a just little tip deformation but held together despite penetrating 4+ ft of bear and hitting several bones along the way.

Not sure if my experience is typical or not but the one I recovered was surely hard.

Thanks for the "real world" review...

I have to wonder due to the coating, if the bullet manufacturers and using a softer [cheaper] alloy due to the coating shielding against some of the leading issues when using softer alloys at higher velocities.

Running one on a hardness tester would help.

Most commercial outfits run a standardized "hardball" alloy, which is generally 15-18 BHN and similar to Lyman #2. Softer stuff may be cheaper, but the mechanized systems for commercial stuff runs and casts much easier and less costly for their uses. Softer stuff is also undersized for nominal moulds in commercial use, another issue.

Hardball, softball, football, basketball, volleyball and all kinds of ball.
Easy easier easiest to cast. If hardball and softball is mixed equally will it make mediumball?
Will mediumball be good for casting? Could it be predicted by looking into the crystalball?
Would a video be in order? If more than two kinds of ball are mixed would it then be manyball?
Would the manyball have some of all the good of each of the individual balls in it and the bad too?
That is the question from glockdoofusball.

I have the Lee Hardness Tester saved in my favorites box, it's still out of stock at Midway, will grab one when they become available.

LBT makes a nice tester go to their web site

Thanks!

That's the one I use.

Its pretty easy to use; just make sure the base is flat (no raised sprues or unfilled area).

Made these on Sunday, water dropped from the mould, both from the same pot.

The LBT tester is quick, accurate and easy to use.

Thanks again JWP.

Damn Hawk, those are harder than a whores heart.

This thread is called "hard cast", is it not?

LOL, yeah, but damn, I thought my 21 BHN alloy was hard, that craps like bubblegum compared to what you're casting ; ]

That's where "hard casts" begins for heavy revolvers in my opinion. Anything less isn't a hard cast

The harder the allow the more accurate the bullet will be with a good line

I like LBT lubes the best

I wondered about a 220 gr WFN at max velocity? And What is the maximum weight bullet to use in a 10MM? I don't have as much need for the 40 although it would be interesting in a Half-Power. YMMV. Also are those rascally bears using ceramic armor these days???Be Well, Rustyzipper.

Clicked the link, had a look at the LBT hardness tester, I cast some bullets 1.5 inches long, guess a man would need to file a flat on the side of the bullet for testing hardness?