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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by copperking81
I ditched the expander ball years ago and my concentricity improved immediately. You can use the Lee collet die or pick up a mandrel body like this one...

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...s-prod38807.aspx?sid=63474&pid=36422

Then just buy mandrels for your calibers. I use the "turning" mandrels which are cut to .002 inches below caliber diameter. "Expander" mandrels will get you .001 inches below caliber diameter. They're made in steel or carbide. Carbide supposedly doesn't require lube but is significantly more expensive over the steel variants.

Carbide turning mandrels....
https://www.sinclairintl.com/aspx/search/productdetail.aspx?sid=63474&pid=36422

Steel turning mandrels...
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...s-prod33136.aspx?sid=63474&pid=36422



Lee Collet neck sizer is less expensive than the Sinclair system.

How does concentricity compare between those two systems?

DF


I don't have any Lee Collet dies so haven't compared the two systems. I can't imagine there'd be any difference though.



Last edited by copperking81; 07/09/20.
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Does anyone have any knowledge of how the hornady bushing dies work? I just ordered a set but all I have ever used is your standard redding or rcbs die. I am assuming that all bushing dies have the mandrel or ball as well or do they not need them since they are using a bushing?

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I never use the expander ball in bushing dies, even though most manufacturers say it should be.

Most of my experience is with Redding "S" dies, whether standard or match. I either sort cases for consistent neck thickness, or (pretty rarely) outside-turn them, then just neck-size them with the appropriate bushing. They come out far straighter that way.


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Is he depriming rod/pin needed on the collet die? Is that used for alignment ? I am wondering if that may be the cause of caps popping off. Thinking the pin bottoms out when the die is screwed down too far and then the rod hits the bottom of the cap and then pop goes the weasel.


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Originally Posted by Sakoluvr
Is he depriming rod/pin needed on the collet die? Is that used for alignment ? I am wondering if that may be the cause of caps popping off. Thinking the pin bottoms out when the die is screwed down too far and then the rod hits the bottom of the cap and then pop goes the weasel.

I would think "popping the cap" is from "man handling" the die with a compound press. WAY too much pressure exceeding the design limits of the die. I think the aluminum cap may be a design issue, a "pop off valve" of sorts to prevent more serious damage to the die.

Lee will replace those caps for the cost of postage. Don't ask me how I know... blush

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Yeah, if the cap is popping off the operator is cranking on the handle well past the point where the something aint right indicator should be flashing.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Yeah, if the cap is popping off the operator is cranking on the handle well past the point where the something aint right, indicator should be flashing.

I've done it. Won't say how many times.

Following your excellent instructions, that won't happen.

It's a learning curve, or seems to be for some of us... blush

At least Lee has our backs...

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Lee does like to help.

I have said this before, but it needs repeating. Any time you have to put a lot of pressure on a press handle when resizing, you are doing something wrong. laugh


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I tried to follow the Lee instructions and the part about stopping before the lever cammed over had me stumped. How do you know when you have reached that point without camming over? So I tightened the die a quarter turn more and "pop goes the weasel" the old A-2 sent the cap almost in orbit, it hit the ceiling hard enough to sort of ricochet off it. So much for the learning curve. Now I am more familiar with the collet dies and polish and contour everything this has not happened again. It helps to use a lighter non compound press too, the big presses don't have as much feel to them.


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With the collet die and a cam-over press Lee says to go 2 full turns down after making shell contact. You will hit a solid stop. Then add pressure. Works for me.

This is a nice video:
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/10/how-to-neck-size-cases-with-lee-collet-die/



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Originally Posted by Tejano
I tried to follow the Lee instructions and the part about stopping before the lever cammed over had me stumped. How do you know when you have reached that point without camming over? So I tightened the die a quarter turn more and "pop goes the weasel" the old A-2 sent the cap almost in orbit, it hit the ceiling hard enough to sort of ricochet off it. So much for the learning curve. Now I am more familiar with the collet dies and polish and contour everything this has not happened again. It helps to use a lighter non compound press too, the big presses don't have as much feel to them.

There's a reason why many of us like Mathman's instructions...

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Originally Posted by Starman
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She can do that, too...


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I believe some gun writer has published stuff about not only polishing expander balls, but testing them for straightness on the shaft.

Like vapodog, I tried the carbine expander balls and had little luck--but also have had great luck with very slight amount of Imperial Sizing Die Wax inside case necks. I apply it by smearing a tiny amount of wax on a brush, then running the brush into the necks.

I thought about polishing them but was afraid of taking off too much metal and causing problems. And, I didn't really know the best way to do it or if taking too much would cause some problem. Sometimes I'm so anal I screw myself out of making improvements.

I hate that raspy feel on the up stroke of sizing pulling that expander ball through the resized neck. I probably won't go the Lee Colet Die route because I've got too much invested in conventional dies.

I need to get some Imperial Sizing Wax. I've been hearing about it for years but believe it or not I'm only on my 3rd tube of RCBS Lube after 40 years. I use it sparingly. Sometimes I'm just too lazy to change my ways too. I have for years used a Que Tip and put just a small amount of the regular RCBS Case Lube inside the neck, which helps smooth things out, but I always wondered if it was too thick for that.

Last edited by Filaman; 07/13/20.

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I have used this gizmo from Bonanza for years. It definitely helps smooth things out, cleans and lubes at the same time.

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I use white graphite as well, even with next turning - and personally I think it may help prevent cold welds between the bullet and brass as well.

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