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Originally Posted by nimrodtracy
The down sides to heavy arrows is the trajectory but if you know your ranges you should not have a problem now that we have hand held range finders. Also heavy arrows will make your shots more accurate and with a quite bow you will get better shot placements on your game animal.


Per the ranch fairy pig hunts animals still move while arrow is in flight.

And Ive had fine accuracy w faster/ lighter arrows.

Heavies have advantages and disadvantages.
Up to the shooter to decide what characteristics he values most.

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Late to the party but if you're going to shoot trad, don't discount the old Bear Greenies (with the bleeder). I've shot every deer for the last 5 years with them and they've never let me down. My other Favorite is the old Snuffers in either 145 or 160. I'll be going back to those this year just because I get a big grin when they leave a blood trail Ray Charles could follow.


The chances they come, and the chances they go.
But the time. You don't get that back.

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I would ask what is your budget first. Second I would increase broad head weight and FOC. 200gr upfront works wonders! Several ways to going about increasing the FOC.

Broad heads I like and have had good performance with are in no special order:

Razor Tricks
Iron Will
WASP Sharpshooter Traditional
Valkyrie Bloodeagles
Day Six Evo X


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Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
I would ask what is your budget first. Second I would increase broad head weight and FOC. 200gr upfront works wonders! Several ways to going about increasing the FOC.

Broad heads I like and have had good performance with are in no special order:

Razor Tricks
Iron Will
WASP Sharpshooter Traditional
Valkyrie Bloodeagles
Day Six Evo X


I am in the school that Traditional guys are doing best in a hunting scenario when they take a fuller advantage away with a heavier arrow weight. 650 grains is the magic number according to Ashby. 650 grains total arrow weight & up more can actually be better if you can manage the trajectory. And yes Weight forward is best. There is more to it than this with the 12 factors of penetration & 1. Structural Integrity
along w 2. Perfect arrow flight are at the top of the list.


If you have time for a good read You will find yourself enlightened to read through at least some of Dr Ed Ashbys reports. Link offered below. While Ashbys proven philosophies may depart some away from todays main stream marketing, His philosophies were true then and now. Truly worth your time IMHO

https://www.ashbybowhunting.org/ashby-reports

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...19+Terminal+Arrow+Performance+Update.pdf

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...ality-4_Physics+of+Arrow+Penetration.pdf

Last edited by Hunterapp; 08/01/20.

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His data is good but like all data people take it to the extreme. I don't think 650 is the magic number. I have best performance just over 500. After about 580 things start to fall apart. I am shooting 530gr total weight out of my Hoyt Satori Recurve. 548 total out of my Toelke Long Bow. 520 out of my Hoyt Advantage LTD finger bow. I have never not had a pass through on good shot placements with any of my set ups. With release bow I am not so concerned about a weight goal and more concerned with arrow performance I think my release set up is at 500 or maybe a hair under.

I like my arrows as short as i can get them seeing I have a long draw. I stay on the softer side of the spine charts, stiff arrows will give you contact for sure. I know a lot of guys think there is an advantage to shooting a stiffer spine. I have to totally disagree. With that said too soft is not good either, I try to get that sweet spot were I have enough flex to clear my riser and rest and stabilize in flight.

The problem with archery is that most just buy a set of arrows and are done with it. But reality is that isn't how it works. Yes you may get lucky and happen upon an arrow that works well enough. But really archery is a tinkerers game and requires constant adjustments. Wether it is from string wear in, your form changing, bow tuning, and the likes you always are playing with something. Those that take their bows to a shop to have work done are rarely set up perfect for the owner.


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Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
I would ask what is your budget first. Second I would increase broad head weight and FOC. 200gr upfront works wonders! Several ways to going about increasing the FOC.

Broad heads I like and have had good performance with are in no special order:

Razor Tricks
Iron Will
WASP Sharpshooter Traditional
Valkyrie Bloodeagles
Day Six Evo X

I want a broadhead that'll kill a deer or hog when released at recurve speeds of say 190 fps. Not so much a question of budget. That said, I see no need to blow big money if I don't need to. I do have other hobbies that have to be funded!

At traditional speeds, I'd think cut on impact is needed. I like the looks of the Woodsman, but they are pricey!

I can't see 650 grains. Seems like it'd be crazy slow and arc like a rainbow pass 20-yard. But what do I know.

Last edited by Gun_Geezer; 08/01/20.
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Cheap I would go WASP Sharpshooter Traditional
Best I would say Iron Will


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Cant believe nobody mentiond the old bodkin from Whiffen archery or the original Bear razorhead. Then there is the Ace, Howard Hill, MA2 and 3 most you can still get if you look hard enough. Snuffers are great. All have killed alot of stuff well under 175 fps. Hard pressed to beat any of them. Years ago was trying to make a hunting arrow for under $1 all in wood shaft feathers nock brodhead and paint. Could do it with MA3 or Bodkins.

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Take a look at Magnus broad heads,they have a decent selection,are priced right,and have a lifetime replacement guarantee,if you damage one they will replace it for free.


Greg


Semper Fi
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