Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Action Torque setting ULA 30-06

Happy owner of a new to me ULA 30-06 but have no documentation for it, what are the torque setting for the action screws?


thanks

I’ve always just hand tightened my ULA rifle actions...never had a problem.

Tighten the front screw first, hard--then tighten the rear screw hard.

I asked Mr Forbes the same question and also inquired about the scope ring/bases. He responded something along the line of..."we just make them tight". No ft/lbs or particular specs...

Not NULA, but Bergara says 55 inch pounds. I can't tell that from just making them tight.

Have never torqued anything on a gun.

That's the recommended setting for the little carbide inserts that go on the helical cutter of my planer. I lacked a torque driver that went that low so I went to a store and tried one out. I learned that 55 in/lbs is "just about as hard as you [or at least, I] can twist with one hand gripping the screwdriver handle tight."
sounds a lot like
"Tighten the front screw first, hard--then tighten the rear screw hard."

Barret says 80 in the front and 36 in the back for the fieldcraft ... obviously not the same but a point of reference for another lightweight, similarly bedded rifle. That’s definitely hard.

never torqued a action screw or broke a barrel in on a ula/nula
Melvin says good and tight and just shoot it

gene270,

First time I fired my NULA .30-06 was in March of 1997. Tried some handloaded ammo worked up for another rifle, 180-grain Speer Grand Slam and a max load of H4831. First 3-shot group at 100 yards was .56 inch. Still shooting like that with more than one other handload, quite a few rounds later.

john,
struggle as I try....I only wish i could shoot Melvins guns to their potential

Front screw first makes sense, being the front screw is a hex socket head tighten hard is easy, the rear screw is a slotted so I will have to be more careful I have a habit of trying to get them just a little tighter to be straight then striping them...


thanks to all

"farmer tight"

Front screw first also makes sense because that's the part of the action with the recoil lug--which is why I hold most of my bolt-action rifles upward when tightening the front screw, so the recoil lug is sitting against the recoil shoulder in the magazine.

However, I must also confess that I converted the front screw to slotted on my .30-06 many years ago, because I was using it a lot for travel hunts, where I prefer to take the rifle out of the stock and use a take-down case. It was far more convenient to use a slotted screwdriver than a hex wrench, and I also ground the bigger screwdriver tip on my Swiss Army knives (usually travel with two) to precisely fit the slot. The rifle has always shot well upon reassembly, perhaps partly because I tilt the body of the knife to the side when tightening the screw, providing a little more torque.

My Forbes info said 80 front 36 rear.
.280AI, it’s a death ray.

Amazing! That's exactly what Barrett lists for their copy of the Forbes.

I used 45 front 37.5 rear.