Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles 308, LC, MIlitary brass

I am on 8-10th loads on my originally once fired military LC military 308 brass. I am noticing a slight bit of difficult Extraction. Just wondering if a small base die would “reset” the brass dimensions or if I should just go ahead and pitch it. Has anyone else noticed military brass becoming more difficult to extract over time? I have to FL size every time, as a lee collet die leaves it difficult to chamber. What say you?

Take the money you’d spend on a a small base die, and buy some new brass. 8-10 loadings, you got your money out of it.

What are you shooting it in?

A SB die might get your old brass to battery. But that loss of elasticity should tell you your brass isn't long for this world. Neck splits, partial separations, etc are ahead. Best pitch it. FWIW, I pitch most .308 after 5 reloads, never let rifle brass go beyond 10. Goes in spades for semis/service rifles.

Why don't you anneal first, SB die, and reload. Use Imperial Sizing Die lube. Try it on 20 cases and see if it doesn't help. If it doesn't you learned something new. I guess I haven't gone past 10 loads on mine. I use them in 308 and 358 Winchesters. Again for the 358 use the Small Base die first, Imperial lube, and go once through the 358 die. Haven't had any problems in 358 either. No split case necks nor anything else. All of them Lake City brass. All once fired from Midway. Guess I have been lucky. Be Well, Rustyzipper.

This.

10 loads, you're just getting it broken in.

I have been using some LC 69 match brass in my Model 88 Win. that I bought in 1964 and got the brass in about 1965.has had more then 10 reloadings I am sure.,plus few anneals. I don't load close to max though.
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How did you buy LC69 brass in 1964? Do you own a DeLorean?

The problem with work hardened brass is spring back. Brass should be annealed at least every 3-4 firings at a minimum to prevent this.

So anneal then FL size to a .001-2 shoulder clearance for your chamber using your regular die and see if that solves the problem. It should, a SB Die is not the answer for work hardened brass.

If the brass is annealed on a regular basis you should also be able to use the Collet Die in a Bolt Action Rifle. You do have to have the procedure down to correctly anneal the brass though...I have seen a lot of confusion about that.

I don't use FL sizing dies in the normal manner and never use the expander button on the upstroke, normally I just use a Collet Die and a body die only when necessary...proper annealing will ensure all of these options will be available.

Don’t be one of those guys who starts a “drive by” thread.
You know, asks a question and then never returns.

The SB 300 Savage die I bought brought the base to exactly the same diameter as the full length dies. I called RCBS they said the the max on the SB dies was the same as the min on the full length dies.
The tech recommended turning the die 1/4 turn past when the die touched the shell holder. That did the trick.

What does that do to the shoulder bump?

All it does is take the slack out of the mechanism. Doesn't hurt a thing

Having to seriously cam the press is not a bad thing. The rifles that require I do so give the greatest brass longevity.

Those (usually belted) that require creation of a false shoulder on new unfired brass are on the opposite end of the spectrum. Not going past 5 firings. If that.

Your correct.Must have been 69 or 70.I was shooting competitively in Albuquerque on Sandia Base. A navy team was shooting M14's and gave me all their brass after each match. They said they thew it away anyhow, They were issued the ammo

Kimber Montana 308

Like I said, “It worked and it didn’t hurt a thing.” After doing it once, I did not have to do it again in many repeated firings.
The RCBS technician is the one who suggested it. I was using RCBS dies and a RCBS press.

As far as brass longevity. I’ve reloaded this brass many times and so far not a single case lost.

+2 on that ^