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Get AGM batteries for it. little more expensive, a LOT better for off road vehicles


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11.3 volts is not fully charged . looks like it may be time to buy a battery


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Thanks for tips on batteries. One of them I bought Feb 2019, the other is older. Will replace them both. When I first started it and pulled out on the road I started out fine, than after about 200 yds I just lost power and it died, coasting to a stop, then wouldn't restart. Battery related as well? I see no reason it should be starved for fuel, and it has a new plug.


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If it dies while going down the road , that isn’t the batteries typically. Is the alternator good and what about belts? They should be tight and with proper tension. I’d think that 2019 is under warranty also .


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thought I'd get more help if I posted this here instead of down in the cellar....

I have a 2006 Ranger 500 non efi. Runs great and has given me no problems. I have a dual battery setup and keep them trickle charged in the off season. Today I fired it up easily, and started down the road just to run it a little bit. Got about 100 yds from the house and it died, acting like it was starved for gas. However, when I tried to start it again, it acted as if the batteries were dead, which they weren't as they were both fully charged. When I try to crank it, it still acts like batteries are dead.

Where and what should I check first, and how to proceed? Thanks for the help....I'm obviously no mechanic.


Edited to add......both batteries show 11.3v on meter.
Those are dead batteries. 12V is dead, 12.4 is 50%.


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I've had problems with the fuel line to fuel pump decomposing. That starves it for fuel.


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thanks for tips on batteries. One of them I bought Feb 2019, the other is older. Will replace them both. When I first started it and pulled out on the road I started out fine, than after about 200 yds I just lost power and it died, coasting to a stop, then wouldn't restart. Battery related as well? I see no reason it should be starved for fuel, and it has a new plug.


I’ve got a 2004 Ranger. Those things were notorious for bad fuel pumps. They were a cheap-y design, and they are near the engine(under the seat), and get HOT.

Mine would run great for 10-20 mins on a hot (95-100) day, then the thing would start acting like it was running out of gas, then die. If I took the seat base off (to let it cool), it would start up again (after 15-30 mins).

Check your battery cables, as well, esp your ground..

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You could sell it and buy a Mule or Kubota


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thanks for tips on batteries. One of them I bought Feb 2019, the other is older. Will replace them both. When I first started it and pulled out on the road I started out fine, than after about 200 yds I just lost power and it died, coasting to a stop, then wouldn't restart. Battery related as well? I see no reason it should be starved for fuel, and it has a new plug.
I missed this before. If you put 2 in parallel, they need to be the same age or the newer one will die when the older one does. I don't know the reason but I've read many times that that's what they do.


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Rangers won’t even turn over under 12V. However that likely didn’t kill it.

Edit
It could be the fuel pump won’t run under 12v either, jump it and see before doing anything drastic!

No alternator on them unless it’s a North Star model, don’t think they made them before 2014 though.

Last edited by rosco1; 08/31/20.
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How does the battery get onboard charged then ?


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Is your Ranger (like mine) governerd to 15mph if the driver doesn't have the seatbelt on? If so there is an inline electrical switch that gives the signal...if this comes loose it will act like out of gas or battery dead. Look under the seat and make sure its connected and tight.

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Apparently it has a voltage regulator to maintain voltage of the battery during use. My fault . They appear cheap too


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Originally Posted by fburgtx
Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thanks for tips on batteries. One of them I bought Feb 2019, the other is older. Will replace them both. When I first started it and pulled out on the road I started out fine, than after about 200 yds I just lost power and it died, coasting to a stop, then wouldn't restart. Battery related as well? I see no reason it should be starved for fuel, and it has a new plug.


I’ve got a 2004 Ranger. Those things were notorious for bad fuel pumps. They were a cheap-y design, and they are near the engine(under the seat), and get HOT.

Mine would run great for 10-20 mins on a hot (95-100) day, then the thing would start acting like it was running out of gas, then die. If I took the seat base off (to let it cool), it would start up again (after 15-30 mins).

Check your battery cables, as well, esp your ground..
That sounds like good old fashioned vapor lock. It was common back in the days of mechanical pumps and carburetors. It's been largely eliminated since they started putting the pumps in the gas tank so it stays cool. That's where it is on my '12 RZR.


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11.9 volts is considered 100% discharged.

12.6 is 100%
12.4 is 75%
12.1 is 50%
12.0 is 25%
11.9 is 0%

discharging a battery 10.5 and below is considered as damaging.


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Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn key on?

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Clean your grounds.
Inspect battery cables.
Clean cable termination points.
Buy new batteries.

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Originally Posted by hanco
Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn key on?


There is a very noticeable humming noise coming from the fuel pump this morning when I turn the key over. It hums for about 3 seconds then goes away. I had it on slow charge overnight and it' sup to 12.5v. It will turn over at a moderate rate and not start. I


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If the pump is louder than normal, it could be pumping dry. How about the fuel filter? Maybe the fuel line sucking air?


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Straight off the charger a battery can hold a surface charge and test higher than it really is. Test it no, after you tried to crank it over and let the battery rest. I still have my money on a bad battery. Voltage testing for state of charge can be misleading. If you want to remove all doubt, go to Harbor Freight and buy a carbon pile load tester for $45 after coupon. You’ll never have to wonder about the state of a battery again.

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