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Came across a quart of H.W. Kuhn's WonderOil.

Stuff works great!


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by WTF
That rifle has a 15 second polyurethane (or some other thane) sprayed on finish. No oil is going to penetrate the plastic finish.
If you do strip it to bare wood, BLO is not your friend even if it looks good early on.
Everyone has their pet finish and mine is pure tung oil.

You do realize "pure tung oil" does not have to have any tung oil in it, right?.


I think you're getting pure tung oil mixed up with tung oil finish.

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Originally Posted by TenX
It is polymerized according to their website. I think in involves boiling it at a certain temperature for a certain amount of time. It dries fairly fast, I can usually get two coats in a day especially if I set the stock in the sun for a little while. I put in on with my fingers and rub it with the heel of my hand.
Phil

Polymerization is the process of curing. If it is polymerized it is cured. Hard to apply already cured oil.

The temperature thing was done until chemical driers were discovered... general heavy metals...


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Originally Posted by WTF
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by WTF
That rifle has a 15 second polyurethane (or some other thane) sprayed on finish. No oil is going to penetrate the plastic finish.
If you do strip it to bare wood, BLO is not your friend even if it looks good early on.
Everyone has their pet finish and mine is pure tung oil.

You do realize "pure tung oil" does not have to have any tung oil in it, right?.


I think you're getting pure tung oil mixed up with tung oil finish.



Yes, and no on tung oil versus tung oil finish. Originally pure tung oil used to have to be tung oil... I have been told the new requirement is the ingredients list must state it is linseed oil.


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That makes absolutely no sense. Hopes 100% Pure Tung Oil.... down at the local True Value. No linseed.

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Tung oil has to be applied to bare wood so it wouldn't be applicable for what the OP wants.

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I have had good results on about four rifles recently going over the finish with alkanet oil. This is a mix of turpentine, ground alkanet root, and linseed or tung oil. It has penetrated the finish on two Winchesters, an Iver Johnson and a Miroku stock. It enhances the grain and makes the wood look much better.

Use about 25% Oil food grade or art grade linseed or tung oil, these can be polymirized but for maximum penetration the raw form is better, and 75% Turpentine, and about four ounces of the alkanet. Let this stand for a week or more then rub on and wipe off after about 30 minutes. Wait 24hrs and repeat. After about the third coat you should start seeing some results. Usually 4-8 coats will get the result I want. Then wait 24 hrs. or more and wax with Oxblood or Cordobon shoe polish. Wait 48 hrs. or so then use Renaissance or other wax on it.

Just buffing a factory stock with oooo steel wool or bronze wool and then rubbing it with rotten stone will improve the looks quite a bit.


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Or flaxseed oil from the health food store. Same seed as linseed oil comes from just cold pressed without the heat and petroleum distillates for extraction. Thin thin coats with long time between them

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Originally Posted by WTF
That makes absolutely no sense. Hopes 100% Pure Tung Oil.... down at the local True Value. No linseed.

And you know this how? Advertising?


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Originally Posted by postoak
Tung oil has to be applied to bare wood so it wouldn't be applicable for what the OP wants.

Not even close to true... oil can be applied over many different cured finishes.


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Originally Posted by Tejano
I have had good results on about four rifles recently going over the finish with alkanet oil. This is a mix of turpentine, ground alkanet root, and linseed or tung oil. It has penetrated the finish on two Winchesters, an Iver Johnson and a Miroku stock. It enhances the grain and makes the wood look much better.

Use about 25% Oil food grade or art grade linseed or tung oil, these can be polymirized but for maximum penetration the raw form is better, and 75% Turpentine, and about four ounces of the alkanet. Let this stand for a week or more then rub on and wipe off after about 30 minutes. Wait 24hrs and repeat. After about the third coat you should start seeing some results. Usually 4-8 coats will get the result I want. Then wait 24 hrs. or more and wax with Oxblood or Cordobon shoe polish. Wait 48 hrs. or so then use Renaissance or other wax on it.

Just buffing a factory stock with oooo steel wool or bronze wool and then rubbing it with rotten stone will improve the looks quite a bit.



It is impossible to apply "polymerized" oils... "polymerizing" oils, yes.

Turpentine does nothing positive for oil finishes except cleaning up spills.

Didn't you leave out the incantations and voodoo chants?


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Originally Posted by 5thShock
Or flaxseed oil from the health food store. Same seed as linseed oil comes from just cold pressed without the heat and petroleum distillates for extraction. Thin thin coats with long time between them

And how many months until it polymerizes?


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You can apply oil over a cured finish but it won't sink into the wood underneath the finish. The whole idea of tung oil is that it sinks deeply into the wood. If you aren't going to use it for that there's no point in using it instead of other oils.

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Originally Posted by postoak
You can apply oil over a cured finish but it won't sink into the wood underneath the finish. The whole idea of tung oil is that it sinks deeply into the wood. If you aren't going to use it for that there's no point in using it instead of other oils.



Not sure where you picked up that gem...


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You ever saw across a board that has had tung oil applied? It soaks into the wood a good half inch.

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Originally Posted by gsganzer
I recently bought a Marlin 1895, current production and noticed the stock doesn't seem to have the deep oil finish like my older JM stamped 1894's. I'd like to put a couple of additional coats to give it a richer look and better protection. What should I use?


I have a Model 1895 that was made by the old Marlin company and it came out before the rifles with checkering. It has the "Mar-Shield" stock finish. I have never liked it because it looks thin and dull but I have never had any problems, even after getting the rifle soaked in a WV gullywasher.

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Talked to the owner of Sutherland Wells this morning about polymerization and his finish. If I understood him correctly, they heat the tung oil to a certain temp and hold it there for a specified amount of time. It starts the polymerizing of the oil so it is partially polymerized. So, maybe as Sitka Deer suggested, the term polymerizing might be more appropriate. After application on your project, the polymerization becomes complete much faster than would pure, unheated tung oil. Furthermore, the finish they produce is 50-50 tung oil and solvent. The solvent keeps the oil thin enough to work easily and gasses off after application.

Regardless, I've used the Sutherland Wells product for years on gun stocks for relatively high dollar rifles and shotguns since it yields the proper look. I've also used it on top of poly, lacquer, varnish, and shellac as well as raw wood and it worked well. I apply with my hands and control the sheen by the amount of mineral spirits i add. Generally I don't want a glossy appearance, just a nice warm glow with all the pores filled.
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So more MS = what sheen, and less = what sheen ?


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Well, I suppose the more mineral spirits added to the tung oil would result in less tung oil applied so less sheen. When I'm doing the very final coats, I use appx 75% Sutherland wells tung oil and 25% mineral spirits. After applying to a spot like one side of the buttstock, I rub it with the heel of my hand until it feel pretty slick. The more subsequent coats added progressively increase sheen/shine. I stop adding coats when I get what I want obviously. And, Craigster, that includes my Ballards smile
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Thanks .


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