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Moses Offline OP
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Who makes the lowest detachable scope mounts. Think a .243 that with one scope zeroed in for a 95-100 grain deer load and another scope zeroed in with a 55 grain varmint load.

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Lowest, as in height or lowest as in price?


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None are cheap but I think some of the best are Leupold, Talley, Warne and one out of Alaska whose name I forgot. I apologize for that. His QD rings seem quite elegant. He made them to order as they weren't in stock by the hundreds. Alaska Gunworks maybe??? I might be able to find the empty box as it came in a nice tin I figured to put a select group of fishing flies in with a fridge magnet cut to fit the bottom of the tin. Be Well, RZ.


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I think you will have to re zero anyway. If the magnification suits you, II would just use the same scope and sight in as needed.


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Originally Posted by Rustyzipper
None are cheap but I think some of the best are Leupold, Talley, Warne and one out of Alaska whose name I forgot. I apologize for that. His QD rings seem quite elegant. He made them to order as they weren't in stock by the hundreds. Alaska Gunworks maybe??? I might be able to find the empty box as it came in a nice tin I figured to put a select group of fishing flies in with a fridge magnet cut to fit the bottom of the tin. Be Well, RZ.

https://alaskaarmsllc.com/

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Low Warne Maxima or Leupold QRW rings and Weaver bases are both low and rugged.

Low Leupold QRs are probably close to the Maximas and QRWs in height and they return to zero, but I have found that the levers are more fragile than I prefer.

I have a couple of rifles set up with 2 different scopes in QR mounts, Leupold 2-7x33s for regular hunting and 6x42s for first/last light situations.

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About the lowest I've found is Plain Jane Weaver's (Low ht) in a Weaver style base (Use a Weaver base for M700. Use a non-Weaver solid base for Model 70 - like those from Warne).


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Originally Posted by Sakoluvr
I think you will have to re zero anyway.


It depends. One of my rifles has its receiver top surfaces and holes just right. The bases I use on it are in very good alignment. As a result when I switch scopes things are not going into and out of a bind when tightening/loosening the ring attachment mechanisms. One day I used three scopes, a different one for each shot and the resulting group was small and where it should have been.

You only know for sure by testing.

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If you have a reliable scope, that can be trusted with it's dialing, you can use one scope and just dial when swapping loads.

Zero the rifle with your predominant load (in my case, big game hunting loads), confirm dial dope for secondary load, note and tape to your stock / scope / etc.

I do this very frequently when practicing or shooting pests with reduced loads and cast loads.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by Sakoluvr
I think you will have to re zero anyway.


It depends. One of my rifles has its receiver top surfaces and holes just right. The bases I use on it are in very good alignment. As a result when I switch scopes things are not going into and out of a bind when tightening/loosening the ring attachment mechanisms. One day I used three scopes, a different one for each shot and the resulting group was small and where it should have been.

You only know for sure by testing.


Very true.

I have also had very good luck with Talley detachable rings for maintaining zero when removing and reattaching. I still prefer to dial between loads though...as I mentioned in my previous response.

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I use warne on my ruger and they hold zero fine. Have talleys on my m70 375 H&H and they work fine as well

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What I'm going to say is not advice. It is purely a question.

I shoot mostly traditional firearms with traditional scopes in traditional mounts. Mostly, I put a scope on and boresight it, and leave it on for a decade or more. I have one Leupold QD mount on a rifle that I've never really tested to see if it held zero after taking off the scope, but he mount looks solid and it's held zero for a decade or more at a time.

So here's my question: My sons have AR-style rifles and their friends do as well. As far as they're concerned, a picatinny rail is an invitation to put things on and off at will, including red dot and conventional scopes. There's no re-zeroing. They think nothing of taking a scope off, shooting for a while with the iron sights and then putting the scope back on and shooting at longer distances. What's up with that? I'd be laughing at the foolishness, but they seem to hit the gong as often as I do.


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I ordered Warne low detachable rings with the Warne weaver style two piece bases. If they sit low enough for my tastes I will order another set of rings.

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Originally Posted by War_Eagle
If you have a reliable scope, that can be trusted with it's dialing, you can use one scope and just dial when swapping loads.

Zero the rifle with your predominant load (in my case, big game hunting loads), confirm dial dope for secondary load, note and tape to your stock / scope / etc.

I do this very frequently when practicing or shooting pests with reduced loads and cast loads.



This is your answer, I have 4 rifles that share 2 Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50mm scopes. Murphy Precision rails on all 4 rifles and I use Nightforce Ultra Lite rings for both scopes. Zero on the primary rifles, set the Zero Stop, install on secondary rifles, zero, make note of setting, reinstall on primary and crank back to zero. I have yet to have to re-zero either rifle.

Much easier now that I have a dedicated torque wrench for those rings/scopes/rifles.

I thought it was complicated listening to it be explained, but in reality it is quite simple.


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