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fremont Offline OP
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Long story, but I have a M70 Fwt that is acting like it has too long of a replacement rear action screw. (Tough to know if it's touching at top due to "closed" design at tang--vs. open like a Mauser.) Does anyone have a Portugal S/A Fwt where you could give me the shank/threads length on the rear action screw? Thanks.


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If it's touching - just grind off a thread or two and try again.. Might take 5 minutes, tops..


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fremont Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Redneck
If it's touching - just grind off a thread or two and try again.. Might take 5 minutes, tops..
Already have done that but would like to know what stock length is. Point of impact is jumping--like either a mechanical torque or a scope problem. I hear people blame scopes a lot, but I don't believe it's the scope 99% of the time.


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Put some dyekum or lipstick on the end of the screw and install and torque it down. Verify it’s not making contact. Very easy to tell and shorten it accordingly. Also many time the factory screw can be long or short depending on a variety of things also.

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Originally Posted by fremont
Originally Posted by Redneck
If it's touching - just grind off a thread or two and try again.. Might take 5 minutes, tops..
Already have done that but would like to know what stock length is. Point of impact is jumping--like either a mechanical torque or a scope problem. I hear people blame scopes a lot, but I don't believe it's the scope 99% of the time.
If a NH rifle, remove both (or all 3) screws if applicable.. Install JUST the rear one and tighten to about 50 in/#... Is the tang solidly anchored and not moveable? If so, the screw you're using is fine.. Then install the other one (or two)... IF your rifle's a 3-screw model, then do NOT tighten the middle screw - that one just needs to be 'snug'..

Is the barrel free-floating or touching somewhere? If it's floating, and you're still getting big groups, inspect the crown. If OK, then next thing is a good bedding job. Check your scope mount bases for tightness. Check the ring screws for tightness..

After all that's done and you're still getting crap accuracy, AND the bore's been thoroughly cleaned, AND the crown's good, AND the scope is a proven solid, it's possibly time for a new barrel..


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las Offline
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Are you sure it's the rear action screw and not the front one?


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Is the magazine box bottomed out?

I had an Interarms that I chased ghost for two years.Finally came upon the problem that the action screws were binding in the stock clearance holes Don't think they should be touching at all.Fixed the problem


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fremont Offline OP
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Originally Posted by las
Are you sure it's the rear action screw and not the front one?
Confident it's not the front. Have used a lot of ink to check that.


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Is the magazine box bottomed out?It has wiggle when it's torqued down.

I had an Interarms that I chased ghost for two years.Finally came upon the problem that the action screws were binding in the stock clearance holes Don't think they should be touching at all.Fixed the problem
Funny you mention this. I was looking at the tang area and noticed thread marks in the wood at the front (muzzle end) side of the hole. Was going to relieve it.


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Originally Posted by fremont
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Is the magazine box bottomed out?It has wiggle when it's torqued down.

I had an Interarms that I chased ghost for two years.Finally came upon the problem that the action screws were binding in the stock clearance holes Don't think they should be touching at all.Fixed the problem
Funny you mention this. I was looking at the tang area and noticed thread marks in the wood at the front (muzzle end) side of the hole. Was going to relieve it.


Do it. Action screws are to hold the stock and action together, not to act as recoil lugs. They should always have clearance. You likely know that..... smile


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