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I am hoping someone here might be able to help me find a source for the bolt body for a K98.
I have been able to find complete bolts but so far no lucking sourcing the body only.
Can ya help a guy out?


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Sarco might have what you are looking for.

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Are you looking to replace the bolt in the vz24 sporter? You know that the existing handle can be removed and a new, scope friendly handle can be welded on in its place?

Technically speaking, the only 98 marked as a K98 was the Polish small ring, large thread variant. The K98k is marked as Mod 98. Probably best to seek a standard length 98 bolt which the vz24 is.

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Originally Posted by z1r
Are you looking to replace the bolt in the vz24 sporter? You know that the existing handle can be removed and a new, scope friendly handle can be welded on in its place?

Technically speaking, the only 98 marked as a K98 was the Polish small ring, large thread variant. The K98k is marked as Mod 98. Probably best to seek a standard length 98 bolt which the vz24 is.


I am trying to decide between a replacement handle and replacing the bolt. The K98 bolt body idea was suggested to me by a Gunsmith Shop in Mississippi.
So you saying the K98 bolt body is not suitable? If not, what exactly should I be searching for?
At this point I am not only looking for a bolt body, I am also looking to find a qualified Gunsmith to perhaps replace the handle instead.
No Gunsmiths around here.
I appreciate your information.

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I believe the point here is possible "nomenclature" tilt. A complete description of the rifle for which you're seeking the new bolt, the best assurance of getting the type-correct product!
If you're at all unsure, how about some good pix of the rifle and particularly action with existing bolt dismounted! "Generic "Mauser 98" taking in much territory and many bolt-differing configurations. Some bolts to reasonably interchange, others not.

Instant question & observation. Is your intent to retain a good functional military bolt for the rifle? The comment that IF you have a properly headspaced bolt now, likely better to sacrifice it rather than 'wild card', hope of proper & critical headspacing situation of any other bolt. Such if improper result, potentially requiring major rifle rework to properly accommodate!
Last, if seeking gunsmith recommendation, not essential, but perhaps helpful to know your location as starter.

I'm surely not the mauser expert z1r is, but just perhaps 'prepping'! smile
Good luck & Stay Safe!
John

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z1r Offline
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What I am saying is that any unaltered military 98 bolt will not give you the clearance required to clear the ocular bell. So, why replace the bolt when the smith can just cut the existing handle off and weld on a handle that will clear a scope?

In my experience, the only reason I ever replaced a bolt when I was asked to weld on a new handle was if someone previously welded on a handle and it had lots of inclusions and contaminants.

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Originally Posted by z1r
What I am saying is that any unaltered military 98 bolt will not give you the clearance required to clear the ocular bell. So, why replace the bolt when the smith can just cut the existing handle off and weld on a handle that will clear a scope?

In my experience, the only reason I ever replaced a bolt when I was asked to weld on a new handle was if someone previously welded on a handle and it had lots of inclusions and contaminants.


I believe your advice is sound.
I have a safety coming from Brownells that I can install myself, then I'll haul the rifle to Stumpy's Custom Guns, about an hour drive away in Swansboro NC to have the handle replaced all together.
As much as I like this little rifle, the fact remains that the work is going to knock out any aspect of the deal I got on it. I'll have $60 in the safety and I'm sure the bolt handle will be north of $100. Thats a hefty add-on to the $420(rifle, tax, shipping, transfer)I have in it already.


Last edited by Uncle_Alvah; 10/21/20.
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Originally Posted by Uncle_Alvah

As much as I like this little rifle, the fact remains that the work is going to knock out any aspect of the deal I got on it. I'll have $60 in the safety and I'm sure the bolt handle will be north of $100. Thats a hefty add-on to the $420rifle, tax, shipping, transfer)I have in it already.



Ha you’re in the wrong crowd to be making that argument wink !

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http://accu-tig.com/

Dan will weld on a new handle for little $$$$.

Yeah, there is a learning curve associated with buying sporterized Mausers. Since they were not made scope friendly, they have to be altered to be that way. Always look for a bolt handle that is welded and provides ample scope clearance. Look at the scope base hole placement both on the receiver ring and bridge. They need to be at TDC and also the rear hole on the front ring should not be closer than .500" from the rear edge of the ring. Further back and there is the chance the hole was drilled onto the lug seat. Unless you are buying a Commercial Mauser, educate yourself on the platform and the do' and don'ts before buying and then being disappointed.

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Dan will weld on a new handle for little $$$$.


Just spoke to him. He won't touch a Mauser.

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Sorry, he used to. But in truth, they require more effort than a 700 where you simply run a bead. Tell you what, you send it to me with a handle, I'll hook you up.

Last edited by z1r; 10/21/20.
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Originally Posted by Uncle_Alvah
Quote
Dan will weld on a new handle for little $$$$.


Just spoke to him. He won't touch a Mauser.


Since when? He has done three for me.

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Originally Posted by Uncle_Alvah
Originally Posted by z1r
What I am saying is that any unaltered military 98 bolt will not give you the clearance required to clear the ocular bell. So, why replace the bolt when the smith can just cut the existing handle off and weld on a handle that will clear a scope?

In my experience, the only reason I ever replaced a bolt when I was asked to weld on a new handle was if someone previously welded on a handle and it had lots of inclusions and contaminants.


I believe your advice is sound.
I have a safety coming from Brownells that I can install myself, then I'll haul the rifle to Stumpy's Custom Guns, about an hour drive away in Swansboro NC to have the handle replaced all together.
As much as I like this little rifle, the fact remains that the work is going to knock out any aspect of the deal I got on it. I'll have $60 in the safety and I'm sure the bolt handle will be north of $100. Thats a hefty add-on to the $420(rifle, tax, shipping, transfer)I have in it already.



Not hard for a Mauser (and others) to become a money pit. BTDT.


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Sent you a link.


Mauser Rescue Society
Founder, President, and Chairman

I don't always shoot Mausers, but when I do...I prefer VZ-24s.

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Thats a generous offer, thank you!
Is this suitable? Brownells Universal bolt handle....
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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One more illustration of JB’s oft-repeated opinion that the best path to a Mauser sporter is via a commercial action. I’m waiting on my FFL guy’s quarrantine to be over so I can pick up my latest, a Heym. Looks to be a military action: clip guide, thumb cut and slide-off floorplate with bullet button, but I think the bolt handle looks reforged. Whatever it is, it looks good and I trust a company like Heym to do it correctly. At today’s labor rates, starting fresh with a military action or correcting someone else’s whoopsies adds up fast.

A few years ago there was one of the Kimber Mausers in a local used rack. .280 with a cheap plastic stock, fluted SS barrel, and military trigger guard with the sling hole. Military trigger too IIRC. $400 with a Bushnell Banner scope. Putting it right with a decent trigger and maybe a new FN slide-off floorplate would’ve put it up there with a decent used FN price-wise, and still it would’ve been a Frankenrifle.


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I suspect, even with z1r's offer, you will be money ahead by cutting your losses. Sell the Mauser you have and use the proceeds to purchase a used commercial Mauser especially one that is configured for scope use. The JC Higgins M50 would be an example of what to look for. FN commercial action, chrome lined High Standard barrel, a overly thick Fajen walnut stock that can be DIY modified to your preferred ergos. In my area, the M50 could be bought for 300.00 -400.00. Maybe not now though.

One demerit of the M50 is the oddball trigger that many advise replacing with a Timney Sportsman.



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