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Joined: Feb 2010
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16bore Offline OP
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Shoot & clean, shoot & clean. I wind the springs as tight as I can. Still get a lot of failure to feed.

Cleaning is typically breakdown and hit with Hornady One Shot cleaner, scrub, reassemble.

Cheap 36gr Remington doesn’t help I’m sure.

Missing anything?

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You may be winding the spring too tightly, try setting the spring tension per Ruger instructions and I expect that your failure to feed problems will go away.

drover


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16bore Offline OP
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Yup, apparently way too tight. I’ve never bought a “new” one so never had a manual.
I reckon I had the spring bound up to where it didn’t want to rotate.

For anyone else who doesn’t read instructions.


MAGAZINE INSPECTION AND CARE
Check the magazine frequently. The rotor must move freely and have adequate tension so that each cartridge is quickly raised to the feeding position. At the time of manufacture, proper rotor tension is set by rotating the magazine cap nut until the rotor stops turning. Then the nut is turned an additional 1 1/4 turns beyond the ‘stop’ position.
To test the rotor tension, load one cartridge into the magazine and then firmly press against the side of the cartridge case. Remove your finger quickly. The cartridge should instantly and fully move in to the feeding position. If it does not, the magazine should be cleaned. If cleaning does not restore proper rotor tension, do not use the magazine. (NOTE: After testing, remove the test cartridge.)
When cleaning is necessary, use a solvent that will not rust the metal components or adversely affect the plastic magazine box. After the magazine has been soaked in solvent to loosen foreign matter, be certain to shake it vigorously (with the loading opening away from you) to remove solvent or residue from within the magazine.
After cleaning, always check to be certain that rotor movement and tension are correct, and that no solvent or debris remain. Do not disassemble the magazine. Improper reassembly or improper tensioning of the rotor spring can cause a potentially dangerous malfunction. If you experience a problem with the magazine, don’t use it. Get a new one.

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Originally Posted by 16bore


For anyone else who doesn’t read instructions.




You rang?

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Originally Posted by 16bore
Yup, apparently way too tight. I’ve never bought a “new” one so never had a manual.
I reckon I had the spring bound up to where it didn’t want to rotate.

For anyone else who doesn’t read instructions.


MAGAZINE INSPECTION AND CARE
Check the magazine frequently. The rotor must move freely and have adequate tension so that each cartridge is quickly raised to the feeding position. At the time of manufacture, proper rotor tension is set by rotating the magazine cap nut until the rotor stops turning. Then the nut is turned an additional 1 1/4 turns beyond the ‘stop’ position.
To test the rotor tension, load one cartridge into the magazine and then firmly press against the side of the cartridge case. Remove your finger quickly. The cartridge should instantly and fully move in to the feeding position. If it does not, the magazine should be cleaned. If cleaning does not restore proper rotor tension, do not use the magazine. (NOTE: After testing, remove the test cartridge.)
When cleaning is necessary, use a solvent that will not rust the metal components or adversely affect the plastic magazine box. After the magazine has been soaked in solvent to loosen foreign matter, be certain to shake it vigorously (with the loading opening away from you) to remove solvent or residue from within the magazine.
After cleaning, always check to be certain that rotor movement and tension are correct, and that no solvent or debris remain. Do not disassemble the magazine. Improper reassembly or improper tensioning of the rotor spring can cause a potentially dangerous malfunction. If you experience a problem with the magazine, don’t use it. Get a new one.


Thanks for that.....I have 3-4 that need worked over.


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Years ago I had my first 10/22 at the range and was having feeding problems. A friend who had been playing with 10/22's for years said "let me see your magazine." He took an allen key and loosened the 9/64 screw, and then re-tightend it just snug and then backed off just a bit and handed it back to me. I gave him a "yea right" look, but tried it, worked great. He said the key is to loosen the screw till you here a "click" then stop. Don't know what the click is but it has worked on every magazine I have tried since.

Michael

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16bore Offline OP
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1-1/4 turns on the nut worked like a charm, not one hiccup. Dope was good, wind a bitch today.

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Tag!

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Timely thread for me as I'm currently taking the 6th 10/22 mag apart to clean it. Not only just a 1-1/4 turn on the spring, but the screw should only be finger tight, at least that's what I've found.


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I shot 2 10/22's today with 8 10 rounders. 3 of them were fairly new ones the rest were bought in the mid to late 70's. The 3 new ones would hang up in the newest rifle, have to wrestle them out of the gun. All mags worked great in a mid 70's Deluxe. When I got back home I measured the outside dimensions and the new ones were slightly longer front to back. Looking closer the plastic housing is kind of bowed on the rear surface. Used a course file to flatten that surface and they all would fall free like they should. The newer gun has the composite trigger housing.
I've dissembled the older ones several times to clean without issue using the 1 and 1/4 turn on the spring. The newer mags haven't been apart yet and they feel like the spring has more tension. Might take them apart, clean and reassemble with the 1 1/4 turn and see if they work more like the older mags.

IC B3


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