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I use beeswax, and not just a pea size. More like a acorn. I work it into the melt, stir, mix, roll, scrape sides, skim. I just don't like sawdust or anything that makes debris.

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For the last 20 or so years i use bullet lube that oozes out around my sizer dies . My old lyman sizer is about worn out.
If i am alloying specific mixes i use a small amount of soldering flux. Seems to work well.have a half dozen muffin cup disks of bees wax also that if its handy i will shave a curl off and drop in a pot that is really dirty ,like old lead sewer pipe.


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Originally Posted by res45
I've used sawdust for years. Once my lead has melted I stir in a heaping tablespoon of sawdust and work it into the melt with tablespoon that I have small holes drilled into to allow the spoon to flow through the lead easily. Once charred and stirred in well I let the char stay on top to help prevent oxidation and don't remove it till I'm ready to add more led to the pot.

Most likely a "duh" question here, but you're using a bottom pour spout, correct?


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Yep, and probably just about everything that others have mentioned. In short....it’s pretty hard to “flux it up”! grin memtb


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I've been known to just pick up a handful of dry oak leaves and crush them. Sprinkled on the top of the pour, it does a pretty good job of collecting the dross. I finish up with a pea-sized bit of candle wax.


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Sawdust, it's free.

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I like the idea of using crayons. I have been using paraffin wax and sawdust. I don't really like the debris left from the sawdust, but now that I have a bottom pour pot, it's not as big a deal.

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I melt down wheelweights, scrap lead, pure lead, etc., flux and cast into ingots in an old, heavy steel pot. I use my kids' broken crayons as flux. Works great and I have a steady supply.

My ingots mold is an old cast iron cornbread mold. Ingots come out shaped like a corn cob halved longways. They work great for stacking in my Lee furnace for casting.

I use a Lee bottom pour to melt the ingots and cast my bullets. Again, little piece of crayon to clean up and flux the alloy.


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Dad and I used the nub ends of church candles he brought home.

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I use bees wax to flux and then cover with saw dust to help with oxidation.


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I've used Marvellux for years. There are two things I like about it: it does not ignite like bullet lube and paraffin will, and it reduces the viscosity of the melt very nicely. I find it easier to get a perfect fill of the mold when the melt flows like water.


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In the casting pot I use fine sawdust and a bit of beeswax based bullet lube. In the "smelting" pot when melting down range scrap, I use sawdust pet bedding, some prairie hay off the floor of the shed that's soaked with motor oil from a leaky lawn mower, and beeswax in multiple go rounds.

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While on this subject, is there a good method or technique for cleaning ones casting ladle? I use a pot and dipper, and the looks of my ladle might get some glances when serving up a good chowder.

Thanks in advance,

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Originally Posted by 1minute
While on this subject, is there a good method or technique for cleaning ones casting ladle? I use a pot and dipper, and the looks of my ladle might get some glances when serving up a good chowder.

Thanks in advance,

i will be watching for an answer. mine is choked with fumunda to about half capacity.


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I use sawdust followed by wax when I'm melting big batches of scrap. I use various forms of wax in my casting pot. Candles, crayons, bullet lube, wax seals off of beer bottles, ect.

I stir the mix trying to work it under the melt and scrape the sides and bottom of the pot while stiring.


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Any of you fellas got a few minutes and are willing to learn something....here ya go!

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_4_Fluxing.htm


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I’ve used bees wax several times over the years, as well as several other flux materials. Haven’t tried sawdust yet....maybe with my next casting session! memtb


You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

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Originally Posted by RiverRider
I've used Marvellux for years. There are two things I like about it: it does not ignite like bullet lube and paraffin will, and it reduces the viscosity of the melt very nicely. I find it easier to get a perfect fill of the mold when the melt flows like water.



Same here just a little crust to remove but its always consistent ..


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DD you have maintained the reason I hold you in - ahem - high regard. You don't recommend adults to use crayons! Thanks. Be Well, RZ.


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Originally Posted by FlyboyFlem
Originally Posted by RiverRider
I've used Marvellux for years. There are two things I like about it: it does not ignite like bullet lube and paraffin will, and it reduces the viscosity of the melt very nicely. I find it easier to get a perfect fill of the mold when the melt flows like water.



Same here just a little crust to remove but its always consistent ..



So, after having read Dan's posted Fryxell article on sawdust for flux I find myself questioning the real value of tin in my alloy. I was not aware that Marvellux could cause loss of oxidized tin...but there it is. On the other hand, I've long believed that preservation of tin was most important for maintaining castability---which to ME means filling out the mold fully. I've been satisfied in that regard for many years of using Marvellux. As I said earlier, I feel like using it seems to make the alloy flow like water. So maybe I HAVE been giving up some tin but making a good trade in getting the other undesirable metallic contaminants out of the melt.

I think I'm going to have to experiment, and casting season is just about over at my house. Maybe next fall...


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