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Got a couple of shotguns with new wood to finish.


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Ask 10 guys on this forum that question and you are likely to get 10 different answers... my favorite for easy and excellent looking finish is Truoil.... as in most things, learning how to apply it to get satisfactory results is as important as the finish you use...


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Depending on how pricey the gun is dictates what kinds of finish I use. As to your question as to best and easy, those two words don't go together. But I've done quick and easy, on occasion using Pro Custom Oil spray. It turned out pretty nice.
Phil

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i buy the birchwood casey truoil kits. comes with walnut stain, truoil, and stock conditioner. i usually mix the walnut with maybe 1/3 or less mahogany minwax stain to give it a little red. i put it on real thin for the first coat and sometimes thats enough. then truoil it a few times with steel wool in between and then use the stock conditioner to take the shine off a bit. this recreates the old remington look from the old days pretty close. it also wears real well too and once it gets some weather on it, its hard to tell its a refinish.


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OK Thanks


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TenX makes nice stuff!

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I think the preparation and then the treatment afterwards (rubbing down with rotten stone) has more to do with the final look than what finish it is.
All of the ones designed for guns can give you a good finish. I like several but Steelfin Teak oil is a good one. It has no teak oil in it and not that much oil either. It is a long oil spar varnish but harder than most.


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There's lots of good oil finishes, as long as the gun won't be subjected to much extreme weather. For best protection in the elements a good barrier finish is way better.

The secret to any finish though is as Tejano said- prep, to include pore filling, and final treatment. Merely sanding to fine grit, slopping on a couple coats of oil, and walking away from it will give a serviceable finish but it won't look very elegant- and if you've invested a few hours of work what's a few hours more to do do it right?

Regardless of the oil used, the very last thing to do is apply a good paste wax. It'll bring up a luster after rubbing out but primarily it'll actually provide a modicum of water resistance that an oil finish denies you.


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Make a test board is really good advice...

Steel wool, hand-rubbed, tung superiority, stain, thin for penetration, matte finishes, and other anachronisms die hard. But die they should.

My favorite "easy but good" finish starts with a small can of spar varnish and an equal volume of fresh, artist grade oil. Slop on a coat of plain varnish, let stand 10-15 minutes then rub dry with a lint-free rag. Let dry and repeat.

Refill the varnish container with the oil and add more coats. Refill the can with oil as you go. Stop when pores are filled and you are happy. Let it cure for a month or so before rubbing the finish out and waxing.

It will be very easy to repair the surface and the high varnish content in the beginning will produce a much better seal coat.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
There's lots of good oil finishes, as long as the gun won't be subjected to much extreme weather. For best protection in the elements a good barrier finish is way better.

The secret to any finish though is as Tejano said- prep, to include pore filling, and final treatment. Merely sanding to fine grit, slopping on a couple coats of oil, and walking away from it will give a serviceable finish but it won't look very elegant- and if you've invested a few hours of work what's a few hours more to do do it right?

Regardless of the oil used, the very last thing to do is apply a good paste wax. It'll bring up a luster after rubbing out but primarily it'll actually provide a modicum of water resistance that an oil finish denies you.

+1.........


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Originally Posted by TenX
Depending on how pricey the gun is dictates what kinds of finish I use. As to your question as to best and easy, those two words don't go together. But I've done quick and easy, on occasion using Pro Custom Oil spray. It turned out pretty nice.
Phil

Yup


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Recently I have been using Timberluxe. www.timberluxe.com

It works particularly well on finish repairs and is easy to blend.


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Originally Posted by Clemson
Recently I have been using Timberluxe. www.timberluxe.com

It works particularly well on finish repairs and is easy to blend.


Timberluxe is good stuff and easy to use, but their claim to being waterproof is ridiculous. It is oil and the cured finish will absorb atmospheric water faster than raw wood.


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Thanks all.


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There's not correlation between the BEST and the EASIEST. The best by far isn't the easiest and vice-versa.


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When you say best, do you define that as being the most beautiful finish or do you mean that as the toughest finish?


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Minwax Helsman Spar Varnish with a touch of good Tung oil from an artist shop as Art explains.


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Minwax Helsman Spar Varnish with a touch of good Tung oil from an artist shop as Art explains.


This can be a really great finish if applied properly but I don't use it much for one simple reason that is strictly personal- for the most part Varnishes give a very amber tone to everything you put them on. And over time they will darken. My personal preference has always to finish wood as natural as possible, especially highly figured wood. I find that Truoil , and lately Water based Urethane give a more natural color and look to the wood and leave the natural colors. I did a Fiddleback Maple stock recently and really wanted to keep it as light as possible so I sealed it with several coats of water based Urethane. then after sanding I applied Truoil to get a smooth finish and ended up with just the color I wanted. For some reason, no matter how hard I tried those spray cans of Urethane simply would not go on smooth and even so I had to build it up layer after layer until the wood was sealed, then switch over to Truoil for the surface finish and gloss...

Bob


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Originally Posted by Sheister
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Minwax Helsman Spar Varnish with a touch of good Tung oil from an artist shop as Art explains.


This can be a really great finish if applied properly but I don't use it much for one simple reason that is strictly personal- for the most part Varnishes give a very amber tone to everything you put them on. And over time they will darken. My personal preference has always to finish wood as natural as possible, especially highly figured wood. I find that Truoil , and lately Water based Urethane give a more natural color and look to the wood and leave the natural colors. I did a Fiddleback Maple stock recently and really wanted to keep it as light as possible so I sealed it with several coats of water based Urethane. then after sanding I applied Truoil to get a smooth finish and ended up with just the color I wanted. For some reason, no matter how hard I tried those spray cans of Urethane simply would not go on smooth and even so I had to build it up layer after layer until the wood was sealed, then switch over to Truoil for the surface finish and gloss...

Bob

I agree, the water-based urethane is nearly blue and will not yellow. The spray cans are tough to get right. Thinning it way down and shooting it with an HVLP gun works very well. Another tip when using them is to get Norton Nor-Zon sandpaper. It is blue and is far better than other sandpaper for the purpose.


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