Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Iron sights on Tikka

Anyone install iron sights on their T3/T3x Light or Super Lite? If so, I;d like to see how you did yours. RJ

I've never seen it done but I do know the T3X Artic has OE iron sights.

Yes, it's not a factory option on Superlites or stainless Lites, I'm installing Irons on my new Super Lite and was curious if anyone else had done it. RJ

I’ve installed several sets back when I was gunsmithing. Williams WGOS front and rears. Drill and tap 4 6x48 holes and off to the races.

How is it installing on fluted superlites? I’ve also been thinking about having this done .

I may have misspoke. I didn’t realize we were talking about the fluted models. I assume they’d be like other makes and you could put your rear sight behind the flutes and use the Williams sweat on front that only uses one screw. Situate it so the screw is in front of the flute and let the tail of the base straddle the flute. Or use a shorty ramp that will mount in front of the flute. I still doubt there’ll be any issues.

On the Superlite, I am installing a cosmetically modified Ruger stainless front sight block and the rear sight will be an X/S Sights Low Weaver Back-up ghost ring sight quick detach on my rear Weaver scope base. I've did this same set up on 2 Winchester M70 Featherweights and a Browning X-Bolt with fluted barrel. I will soon post pics with all of the details. RJ

OK, as I said, I used a Ruger stainless front sight block that I opened up to the diameter of the Tikka barrel so it would go on finger tight to flush with the muzzle. Getting it properly sized was no easy or fast task because of the hardness of the stainless and getting the proper barrel taper. But you can do it using a hand Bridgeport, (Dremel), and lots of patience and checking the fit many, many, many times. After that it is easy. I used a couple of 22 cal. cleaning rods and mounted one perpendicular to the T3x flat top receiver and screwed the other one into the tapped hole in the FSB that Ruger uses for a set screw. After cleaning every thing with brake cleaner, I applied JB Weld to the FSB and end of the barrel, put the FSB on and with a brass tube, tapped the FSB on until it was about 1/8" back of the muzzle, all the while, making sure the cleaning rods on the FSB and receiver were in perfect alignment. I then cleaned up ths excess JB and taited 24 hours. After the cure time, I did any more needed clean up and installed plunger spring, plunger and front sight blade.

The rear sight was much easier. I made 2 piece stainless bases from one piece Stratton Custom T/C Encore scope bases. I cut to length, milled the bottom flat and drilled and counter bored the proper hole spacing for the Tikka. I attached the bases with J B Weld (of course) using a TPS BaseBed 2 piece scope base mounting jig. I then cleaned up excess JB Weld. After 24 hr curing time, I removed the jig, cleaned up. cleaned screws and threads with brake cleaner, applied loctite and torqued base screws to 25 inch pounds. I want to tell you that the TPS BaseBed jig is the cats ass. When I re mount my scope after taking it off, after running the scope ring crossbolt nuts up to the clamp, when both are torqued, they only turn 1/8". That tells me the 2 piece bases are in perfect alignment.
For the rear sight I used an X/S Low Weaver Back-up Ghost ring receiver sight, with a couple of mods. Instead of the little common head attachment screw that comes with the sight, I installed a crossbolt with a captive thumb nut for ease of attachment in the field and not to be dropping small parts that I would never be able to find. Since I put an angled slope on front and rear of my scope bases, I cut an angle to match on the sight where it butts up against the base. This is the only kind of rear sight that I use on my rifles, in cinjunction with the white stripe front blade. I've tried them all and I see and shoot best with this combo. RJ