One of the few things I got from my grandfather’s estate after he passed was a schrade sharp finger knife. It is one of my favourite to carry during hunting season. It’s a handy little knife I have several others that I keep on hand aswell. Maybe watching to much Forged in Fire over the Holidays but debating taking a crack and building a couple of knives . Just curious what others use and personal preferences.
Don’t sweat the petty stuff, don’t pet the sweaty stuff.
I use the top Barky for skinning moose and the middle Russell Belt knife for deer. The elliptical cutting edge works at any angle and the drop point is a bonus for slitting hide esp on the legs. Perfect shaped for skinning. The steel is better on the Barks.
The bottom Bark is my field knife for deer hunting.
For a long time my choice of knife for skinning was a Buck General. I don't have the hand strength I had in those days. Most recently I'd been using Buck Vanguards with the rubber handle. I have a new Cold Steel Master Hunter I expect to like better all around and a Benchmade Steep Country which I'll like in my pack.
When it comes to skinning, most anything sharp will do, some just do a little better than others, but truly, it's a lot more about the indian than it is about the arrow.
Anyone who thinks there's two sides to everything hasn't met a M�bius strip.
For a long time my choice of knife for skinning was a Buck General. I don't have the hand strength I had in those days. Most recently I'd been using Buck Vanguards with the rubber handle. I have a new Cold Steel Master Hunter I expect to like better all around and a Benchmade Steep Country which I'll like in my pack.
When it comes to skinning, most anything sharp will do, some just do a little better than others, but truly, it's a lot more about the indian than it is about the arrow.
Tom like you I have a Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V steel. Resently with that knife I cut up a large heavy duty box that a snow blower had shipped in. I really could not believe how the knife held up to that tough job. For me it's a keeper.
Lately, it has been a Buck Max Lite in two sizes - Small and Large. The ones with the orange handles.
Problem is I have several knives.
My youngest boy got me a Benchmade Steep Country Hunter with a guthook for my birthday. I put that in my large kill kit. I bought a drop point one as well. I will try them once and see. I doubt I will change.
In the elk mountains or on trips I keep a Blind Horse Frontier patch knife and a Busse Combat SAR4 on my belt. Generally between the two I can break down an elk or moose or skin a couple bears before I need to worry about sharpening.
Around home hunting deer or peeling the occasional backstrap out of a pig, I just use my normal pocketknife. Always some type of jumbo trapper, currently a Great Eastern with micarta scales and carbon blades.
Small Camp with 4 inch blade and stag horn handle.
I'm on my 2nd over 30 years. I broke the first blade skinning a deer. Randall said send it back so they could check and see if it was abused (me) or a grain in the metal. It ended up being the metal and they sent me a new one, probably 15 years ago. It holds a good edge and I have broken down many critters up to elk with it. For skinning it's a great knife. I have caped with it but carry along a Havalon specific for detail work, as the razors are fantastic at that.
Small Camp with 4 inch blade and stag horn handle.
I'm on my 2nd over 30 years. I broke the first blade skinning a deer. Randall said send it back so they could check and see if it was abused (me) or a grain in the metal. It ended up being the metal and they sent me a new one, probably 15 years ago. It holds a good edge and I have broken down many critters up to elk with it. For skinning it's a great knife. I have caped with it but carry along a Havalon specific for detail work, as the razors are fantastic at that.
Exactly! Any knife is good, as long as you learn to sharpen it. I have some expensive knives, but they are no better than cheaper ones for skinning, gutting etc. With custom, the sky is the limit. For commercial knives, it is hard to beat Buck, Knives of Alaska, or Puma.
You did not "seen" anything, you "saw" it. A "creek" has water in it, a "crick" is what you get in your neck. Liberals with guns are nothing but hypocrites.
I have been carrying the same Western sheath knife since I was 12 yrs old. It still works as good as it ever did, but being a knife nut, I have found the Gerber Gator , and a few custom knives actually do the hard stuff better, but the Western still gets the skinning work! It's the one with the upswept blade.
A few I like. The orange howe mountain Wyoming skinner is my favorite
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
I have used all sorts of knives for skinning and have never found a "skinning" knife to be that much of an advantage.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I have never gotten too worked up about what knife I'm using. Within reason, they all work okay. Most of the time, it's whatever I have been carrying clipped in my pocket. Also, I try to get deer hung up and skun as soon as possible, when they're still warm so they cool quicker and peel easier.
This being the "General Big Game" forum I guess we're not talking about skinning for skins, but for furbearers I do like a bit more purpose-built knife. I tend to use a Case Trapper for that.
The shape isn't nearly as nice as something like the Wyo skinner that Jud posted, but an Olfa utility knife has always gotten the job done in my "skinning shed", and it sure is nice to be able to just snap off the dull tip.
I find the shape does matter, a sweeping curve works better for me. I cut through the hide much less with the skinning blade design. I use several: Gerber Flayer M2 steel, Shrade D2 Skinner, Victorinox skinner, Godogs Loveless M4, Ansi skinner old file blade. These all have some curve to them and the Shrade is almost an Ulu in shape. All of these have good to great steel and will only need touching up if I hit the gambrel or other steel with them.
My neighbor gave me a carpenters hatchet re-shaped as a round head tomahawk, this works well for flaying where you hammer off the hide. I will have him round and taper the blade some more so it will work by itself. Now I hammer with the right hand and use a knife in the left. The less cutting the better.
My hunting knives are all fixed blades, 3.5" to 5" long, with a flat grind.
All are either drop point or spear point ( allows cutting hide without catching viscera/soft tissue). Dislike clip point design for this reason (tip catches soft tissue)
Specifically: Cold Steel Master Hunter ( carbon V), Spyderco Bill Moran FBO2 (vg10), Northwoods Knives Canadian Skinner ( 52000), Benchmade 190 Hunter (440c), Mora Robust (carbon steel), none-branded Solingen steel knife ( dad gave me 40 years ago).
The Spyderco Moran drop point, and Cold Steel Master Hunter are my two favorites- but I like them all.
I'm liking the looks of the Sheep handled blade, second photo, as well as the ivory (Micarta?) twins, third photo. Would you mind telling me who made them, and maybe some contact info?
Last edited by eaglemountainman; 01/03/21.
My heart's in the mountains, my heart is not here. My heart's in the mountains, chasing the deer.
I'm liking the looks of the Sheep handled blade, second photo, as well as the ivory (Micarta?) twins, third photo. Would you mind telling me who made them, and maybe some contact info?
My field knife is a buck 119, not perfect for anything but usable for almost everything. After many years of use i am very confident and comfortable with it.
For skinning any small sharp (I think it was Rio7 and CRS who stated this previously ) knife.
At the beginning of deer season I have a selection of small knives shaving sharp, works grant for skinning and the rare event I need to cape.
My go to and all time favorite for the last 20 years is the Buck Vanguard 192. Mine is a rebber handled version. I find it about the perfect size in every aspect for a hunting knife.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same... President Ronald Reagan
That way I always know where it is and am less likely to accidentally kneel on it or other dumb stuff.
Seriously though, a combo of a Mora and a Havalon work perfect for me, or just a Mora. That and a bone saw and I am G2G.
Pic of elk just because.
The rifle used was not my usual .308. This one got hit with a 6.5 Manbun and 143 eld-x. at 485.
While I love my little Schrade Sharpfinger and older Gerber, I have not taken them to the field in forever.
Another elk from this year, also a 6.5 Manbun. 385 this time.
While I like looking at the fancy knives and think they are quite cool, the Moras are just too practical. Kind of like showing your friends your fancy Les Baer 1911, but carrying a Glock!
Cheers!
THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.
The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.
Something with replaceable blades. I hate sharpening and I’m really good at dulling.
Can totally understand the sentimental attachment to a special knife or just appreciating a fine one.
But what I most appreciate is scary sharp with little to no effort on my part
I too favor the replaceable blade knives. Have a Havalon and a Gerber and prefer the latter for the ease in changing blades. Always have a stouter bladed knife along as well. Took 'flave's advice and bought some RADA sharpeners. Silly easy to use and put a good edge on a blade. They are cheap enough and lite enough I have a few stashed around, even in the pack. Works well for touching up the scapel blades to extend their life as well.
I'm liking the looks of the Sheep handled blade, second photo, as well as the ivory (Micarta?) twins, third photo. Would you mind telling me who made them, and maybe some contact info?
One of the few things I got from my grandfather’s estate after he passed was a schrade sharp finger knife. It is one of my favourite to carry during hunting season. It’s a handy little knife I have several others that I keep on hand aswell. Maybe watching to much Forged in Fire over the Holidays but debating taking a crack and building a couple of knives . Just curious what others use and personal preferences.
I have all my knives on a long belt. I have a schrade on their as well. Good skinner. I have a buck and a gerber which I use also. I also have recently been trying the havalon . Sharp as all get out.....
Second! I have been using a Buck Skinner for many years now. I save the other knife blades for gutting, etc., and when it's time for skinning, out comes the Buck. Fairly easy to resharpen, and holds an edge well.
I'd rather be a free man in my grave, than living as a puppet or a slave....
I use the top Barky for skinning moose and the middle Russell Belt knife for deer. The elliptical cutting edge works at any angle and the drop point is a bonus for slitting hide esp on the legs. Perfect shaped for skinning. The steel is better on the Barks.
The bottom Bark is my field knife for deer hunting.
10/4,
Don't Skin "Grizz" or even moose,
but do skin deer and hogs aplenty'.
A Knives of Alaska Yukon Belt Knife and two by Gary Duckeman, Squawsatch Knives,
Top is his Oklahoma Belt Knife, bottom is a repro of the Grohman #1 Canadian Belt Knife
He makes me wish I had something fancy, since my most fancy knife is my old Sharpfinger.
Classy stuff!
Did Someone mention an Old Timer "Sharpfinger" (Schrade USA 152)
This one could tell a few tales if it could talk!
ya!
GWB
Cool Pic!
My old Sharpfinger sits around a lot these days since I tend to use Moras. I need to find someone to make me a better sheath for it as I never cared for the original one. Too floppy. Nice old Colt too. My "Woodsman" is the economy version, the huntsman!
THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.
The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.
A Knives of Alaska Yukon Belt Knife and two by Gary Duckeman, Squawsatch Knives,
Top is his Oklahoma Belt Knife, bottom is a repro of the Grohman #1 Canadian Belt Knife
ya!
GWB
Very nice! ...... The belt knife design is my favourite overall. It's small enough to use for dressing game but shaped well for skinning. The current Grohman stainless knives are lacking in quality steel. The one I posted is an old carbon steel knife found in a pawn shop for $20.It works better than the SS.
I think some folk shun those knives as they have a bit of an odd euro look about them but one they use them realize how well designed they are for the task at hand.
Watch the 1st 5 min of this video as he goes into the knife shape and its advantages.
GW - I gotta tell ya I always enjoy your posts. You are a great photographer and my what a collection of guns and knives you have. Obvious you have a great place to use them too! Thanks for sharing and keep em comin!
Heaven has a wall, a gate and strict immigration policy.
GW - I gotta tell ya I always enjoy your posts. You are a great photographer and my what a collection of guns and knives you have. Obvious you have a great place to use them too! Thanks for sharing and keep em comin!
Heaven has a wall, a gate and strict immigration policy.
When I accidentally started collecting knives years ago, as I've mentioned to "The Knifefather, VinceM, (I call him that because he's made me so many deals that I could not refuse) I did not know "beans about knives.
one of several sets Vince "hafted for me with scales from differing wood types.
Still don't know much more, but I do have an affinity for the dang things........
I'm surprised I don't see many folks mentioning Puma. I have a Puma skinner that's my favorite. It holds a good edge and can easily be touched up with a rod or stone. The sweep of the blade is great for skinning and the stag handle has a good grip even when bloody. In addition, the shape of the handle helps with "indexing", so you can feel the blade angle/direction when you can't see the blade. It also has one of the best sheaths for a factory knife.
Have several knives that have served me well, these are a few of my favorites. Oregon Gerber, USA Browning, and a Winston. Probabably done more deer skinning and gutting with a slew of older USA Old Timers than anything else.
I'm surprised I don't see many folks mentioning Puma. I have a Puma skinner that's my favorite. It holds a good edge and can easily be touched up with a rod or stone. The sweep of the blade is great for skinning and the stag handle has a good grip even when bloody. In addition, the shape of the handle helps with "indexing", so you can feel the blade angle/direction when you can't see the blade. It also has one of the best sheaths for a factory knife.
The Puma Skinner has been used extensively followed by the White Hunter. The Hunter's Pal, not so much!
Are any of the current Pumas equal to the quality of those from a few years back?
There are a couple of different Puma knife lines. If you see Puma IP, it's internationally sourced and generally not as good quality as the Solingen Germany made knifes. My Solingen made Puma Skinner is very good quality and also has a hardness test mark.
Thanks to some help from Judman for putting Simon Stonehocker on my radar, and especially geedubya for helping with measurements and dimensions for design( based loosely on his loveless sheep skinner). Gave Simon some modern artistic freedom, and may have driven him nuts making changes!
One of a kind as of now! Made by Simon stonehocker
Calling it the “Jinks skinner” at my request If you want to order one S90v Orange liners Carbon fiber handles
The spike is the same handle and steel
Sheath is so I don’t lose it in the dang woods lol Purely functional
Thanks to some help from Judman for putting Simon Stonehocker on my radar, and especially geedubya for helping with measurements and dimensions for design( based loosely on his loveless sheep skinner). Gave Simon some modern artistic freedom, and may have driven him nuts making changes!
One of a kind as of now! Made by Simon stonehocker
Calling it the “Jinks skinner” at my request If you want to order one S90v Orange liners Carbon fiber handles
That is a rather unique looking knife IMHO. I could be mistaken but its almost like it has Nessmuk, Loveless, Canadian belt influences. What are the dimensions?
I have been skinning animals since I was about 7. I am now 65. As a country boy I was skinning things many times a year, not just in hunting seasons. I can't say I have or ever had a "favorite". Any knife that holds a good edge and has a blade from 2" to 4" is about as good for me and any other. I can't count the game I have skinned with pocket knives. In fact, if I were to be able to count them all, I'd bet at least 2/3s of all the animals I ever skinned in my life including cattle were skinned with folding pocket knives. Many years ago I found that having an EZ_Lap was more useful to me than trying to find a "perfect knife"
I like good knives and I have about 2 dz, but none of them are really head and shoulders easier to use than any other. To me the ONE thing I want in a good skinner is edge retention. Blade shape and handles angles and so on seem to make no difference at all to me.
Knives of Alaska Lite Hunter - Stag Charles May Malibu Fire Ant
Both are D2, which I prefer.
I've only had one KOA knife and I thought it was terrible. I believe it was D2, which I've had that same steel with other knives with no issue. But that KOA could be sharp as you could get it, but it had no grab at all when you started cutting meat. I believe the issue might be with the micro serrations of the blade edge that make it lack a "toothiness", maybe it's an issue of how it was hardened or tempered.
I've noticed a similar issue with some of my other knifes, where a medium grit stone makes the knife actually have a better grab and meat cutting sharpness, as opposed to sharpening with a fine stone. However, I never found what worked for that KOA knife and finally parted with it.
Anyone else have a similar experience with a knifes grab or "toothiness".
I have a beat up skinner like the middle one in the first Supercub photo. And a model just like the one in Judman's photo on top, with a partial tang. Both are older knives. Lots of whitetails skinned by both. I got the boat knife, sans sheath , at a gun show by the KCI airport in with a case of odd magazines. The guy sold anything, but specialized in magazines. He seemed happy to get rid of the knife for what I offered. Be Well, RZ.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy. Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. Winston Churchill.
As they say in big game hunting, "the fun stops when you squeeze the trigger." To make things a little easier, I like to have the best tools on hand for the after-shot chores. For breaking down an animal, I generally use the two knives shown below. On top is a Lionsteel M4 in M390 steel patterned in the super useful drop point configuration. On bottom is a Brad Zinker fillet knife in CPM154 steel.
The M390 steel is crazy hard, and holds a razor edge forever. The steel is so hard, that anything less than diamond hones will require lots of patience to sharpen it. I can clean a lot of animals with it, and still split hairs with the blade.
The CPM154 steel of the Zinker knife is a well know high performer. The fillet style blade is great for carefully cutting out backstraps, and for "cleanly" executing the all important butt-ectomy.
I have a Russell Morseth laminated Cascade Skinner for close to a dedicated skinner and a Russell Morseth laminated Loveless influenced semi/simi skinner a little more versatile and still a real skinner for bigger northern game where a real skinning knife is fun.
Very much agreed that there is no universal best and regional fashions are a useful guide.
I long ago had a brother in law in the piney woods country of Alabama when the whitetail limit was one a day where a Wayne Hendrix -from the days when they were a great bargain before A.G. Russell took them up and the price jumped -.was the perfect all around hunting knife and something to brag about buying as a great value to boot. The Wayne Hendrix is a handy daily use kitchen knife in a way the Cascade Skinner could never be - may be that the Cascade Skinner is better for cutting pizza though.
Ganzer, I have nothing critical to say about the KOA. I processed 21 animals with that blade before I ever considered it needing a hit on the steel. When the season was over I sent it to KOA for a resharpen. It cost $8 & came home looking twice as good as new. Have been extremely happy with it.
But, I have experienced the condition you mentioned with other premium blades in my bag. I need to check to see what the material is.
"I never thought I'd live to see the day that a U.S. president would raise an army to invade his own country." Robert E. Lee
I've got some fairly expensive customs and factory blades scattered throughout wilderness areas in WY, MT and ID. These days I have a gerber gator buried in my pack but haven't used it in years, and I suck at sharpening anyhow. I am tired of loosing expensive knives that never were real sharp anyhow.
I use the top Barky for skinning moose and the middle Russell Belt knife for deer. The elliptical cutting edge works at any angle and the drop point is a bonus for slitting hide esp on the legs. Perfect shaped for skinning. The steel is better on the Barks.
The bottom Bark is my field knife for deer hunting.
What Bark River is that top one? Something they made or did you modify their Canadian Special handle? Haven't seen one with a CBK type handle before.
Just had this one made and haven’t even put it to the test yet but I’m pretty confident my handful of others won’t be seeing a lot of use in the future .....
I use the top Barky for skinning moose and the middle Russell Belt knife for deer. The elliptical cutting edge works at any angle and the drop point is a bonus for slitting hide esp on the legs. Perfect shaped for skinning. The steel is better on the Barks.
The bottom Bark is my field knife for deer hunting.
What Bark River is that top one? Something they made or did you modify their Canadian Special handle? Haven't seen one with a CBK type handle before.
Good eye ...... I had the CDN Special modified to approximate the middle Russell Belt knife as close as possible. It was a nice upgrade that Bark should have done on the original.
Well most everything shown has not been a skinning knife...I have been on a quest for about 15 years to find the best skinning knife for deer. I have used most of them available from Randall made knives (Alaska Skinner and the Gary Ward model) to cheap knives. I have pretty much settled on the Buck 103 with the Randall a close second... main difference that I have found is the weight of the two and that is why the buck 103 ends up the most used. I did specifically buy a 103 in 5160 steel for ease of sharpening.... My friends laugh at me at deer camp because I have used so many knifes over the years and generally skin most peoples deer at camp... no telling how many I have skinned over the last 15 years or so... With this in mind, I am talking about a skinning knife not one for gutting as they are different blade designs.
For the whole process, I use a dedicated Gut hook to start off... and 90% of the time we never even gut the animal but leave the chest cavity whole.
The worst thing ever to happen to cops is the personal video recorder... Now people can see the truth
Here’s a dandy skinner my Ol buddy dale howe built me,
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Thanks Dave, had him copy a Russell Buffalo skinner, did a great job, weathered elk is nice too
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Just put together an Enso/Brisa Nessmuk knife and I think it will be a good one. Steel seems good and it takes a wicked edge, has a fair amount of belly to the blade. I think it will work well. https://www.brisa.fi/brisa-knives/brisa-nessmuk-125-knife
On my handle I used ferric nitrate and potassium permanganate like finishing a muzzle loader. Turned out high contrast with some chatoyance and a lot of grain that wasn't visible before staining/dyeing. I like the dark wood. I have been using this in the kitchen and on various projects, it is a useful design. Sears basically reproduced a buffalo skinner with his design. I couldn't figure out why the high bull nose, one source said it was fro prying the skin off. I went back and read woodcraft and it turns out that Sears used the knife as a spoon hence the high back.
My all time favorite is a Kershaw Moose Hunter... I have skinned out two grizzlies on the North West salmon rivers without resharpening... anyone who has skinned a grizzly taken on a gravel salmon stream knows this is an impossible feat.
My all time favorite is a Kershaw Moose Hunter... I have skinned out two grizzlies on the North West salmon rivers without resharpening... anyone who has skinned a grizzly taken on a gravel salmon stream knows this is an impossible feat.
Especially so with Aus8A blade steel.
Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.