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I just got one of these, and am waiting a few days for the ammo to arrive. So, I haven’t chronoed it yet or determined the accuracy of any round.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I’m asking all you prolific elk hunters whether you would consider using that cartridge on a Colorado mountain elk hunt where long shots may be the only ones.

FWIW, I am not asking if it’s the best cartridge for elk, or whether you’d prefer something else. I’m basically asking something along the lines of: If you took your favorite elk rifle to a mountain elk hunt; it got run over by a tracked dozer; and you happened to have access to a 6.5-300 Wby all sighted in, would you feel good, bad, indifferent, happy, sad, depressed, giddy, or whatever by the prospect of using a rifle chambered in that caliber on a prized elk hunt.

Assume recoil isn't an issue, as it won't be for me. Also, please ignore rifle weight and all those other things. Assume your friend carried the rifle for you, or whatever, and you're getting ready to take a shot at an elk anywhere from 50 yds to 600 yds.

Assume the following two possibilities at 10,000 ft:
.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Many thanks in advance for any input.

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In a heartbeat... not even a debate to be honest. Either of those two bullets you listed will work excellent.


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Originally Posted by beretzs
In a heartbeat... not even a debate to be honest. Either of those two bullets you listed will work excellent.


thanks for the comment beretzs. I will find out how accurate these loads are in my rifle later this week.

My gut tells me that the LRX may be the better choice, given that it should still be going above 2,600 fps at 600 yds at that elevation and definitely would stay together, but would be curious about your thoughts on that.

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I LOVE Sciroccos myself. I call them the modern day Bitterroots. If they shoot in a rifle, I’ll usually pick them first honestly. No flys on the Barnes either, great Bullets. I’d take whichever shoots well for you honestly. Either are very capable.


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Thanks for the info B. I will find out in a few days what works in this gun. So, you think the Sciroccos would be good if I hit one up close at around 3,400 fps? I have no experience with them, so just looking for your thoughts.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Thanks for the info B. I will find out in a few days what works in this gun. So, you think the Sciroccos would be good if I hit one up close at around 3,400 fps? I have no experience with them, so just looking for your thoughts.


Yeah, they’re tough Bullets. They’ve held up well from the 75’s in the 22-250, 100’s in the 25-06, 150’s in the Mashburn, 180’s in the 300 RUM, 210’s in a 338. My only issue is if they shoot. Sometimes they can be fussy. But if they shoot they’re the top of my list in a game bullet.

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]


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I've never hunted in Colorado, but lived in Denver for a while and did a lot of hiking and rock climbing there. All my elk hunting has been in Idaho and Montana. With either of those bullets, and probably a dozen others of same or greater weight, I'd have no qualms whatsoever, on the biggest elk. If it shoots MOA, I'd have 100% confidence. I consider rounds like this to be ideal for mountain hunting. For various reasons, I don't own one, but effectiveness isn't one of them.


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Thanks HnS. I'm starting to consider it for next fall.

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Originally Posted by beretzs

Yeah, they’re tough Bullets. They’ve held up well from the 75’s in the 22-250, 100’s in the 25-06, 150’s in the Mashburn, 180’s in the 300 RUM, 210’s in a 338. My only issue is if they shoot. Sometimes they can be fussy. But if they shoot they’re the top of my list in a game bullet.



Thanks beretzs. 6.5-300 ammo is almost impossible to get right now, but I found three boxes each of the ones shown above on GB. The 127gr LRXs should arrive Thursday. I will give them ago likely that day. the 130gr SSs likely will come early next week, and I will then give them a go.

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Caveat- I don't elk hunt but just thinking about it ---

Quality bullet, why not? No one would have qualms about a stout 7mm, 6.5 with bullets of comparable bullets should be just ok.

Coming from the view that I dont elk hunt and if I did, likely to be a 1 time, expensive hunt where I must make things count so in your scenario - I'd be ok and likely focused on finding fur and everything else that goes into putting me in a spot to use the rifle....


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With 130+ grain slugs, I'd go at them with confidence. I'd not be inclined to attempt any bone shattering shoulder shots though.

Nice moose!

Last edited by 1minute; 01/03/21.

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Originally Posted by 1minute
With 130+ grain slugs, I'd go at them with confidence. I'd not be inclined to attempt any bone shattering shoulder shots though.

Nice moose!


Thanks 1M. I generally am a vitals, rather than bone, shooter, but I take whatever makes sense at the time.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by beretzs

Yeah, they’re tough Bullets. They’ve held up well from the 75’s in the 22-250, 100’s in the 25-06, 150’s in the Mashburn, 180’s in the 300 RUM, 210’s in a 338. My only issue is if they shoot. Sometimes they can be fussy. But if they shoot they’re the top of my list in a game bullet.



Thanks beretzs. 6.5-300 ammo is almost impossible to get right now, but I found three boxes each of the ones shown above on GB. The 127gr LRXs should arrive Thursday. I will give them ago likely that day. the 130gr SSs likely will come early next week, and I will then give them a go.


My little brother has a Vanguard 6.5-300 we put in a McMillan stock and it does okay with the 127 LRX factory stuff. Around MOA at 200. He ran out of time to get a 140 load going this fall but I think he will be going at it soon enough.

He had to buy a few boxes of loaded ammo just to get brass. It wasn’t available when he first got the rifle.


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Originally Posted by beretzs
My little brother has a Vanguard 6.5-300 we put in a McMillan stock and it does okay with the 127 LRX factory stuff. Around MOA at 200. He ran out of time to get a 140 load going this fall but I think he will be going at it soon enough.

He had to buy a few boxes of loaded ammo just to get brass. It wasn’t available when he first got the rifle.



Thanks B. That's good to know. If nothing else, that the 127s can work with a 1-8" twist.

I can give you my one-shot brass when I have them for your brother to have. I have no use for it, unless I take up reloading, and that's not gonna happen anytime soon I think.

I know my hopes are unrealistic, but my Accumark, which is similar regularly gets groups like pictured below (the larger ones are on a hot barrel), and I was hoping this one might do similar.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Have an Accumark in 30-378 that groups about the same. Other Weatherby's that do as well too, but they are builds. Have no real need, but I do want a 6.5.


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I like the Vanguards and Howas myself. They’ve always been very solid rifles and great shooters for me. We have a few of them. I like the newer Howas and Vanguards a bit more since their triggers ain’t half bad and the safety is more to my liking.

That 8 twist 6.5 Wby should be a firing breathing monster. But as will all things big like that, they can be fussy.


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I love mine, had it built 4 years ago or so, I wouldn’t hesitate to reach for it to kill a bull. Mine loves the 140 Hornadys, hated the 127’s. Got some 130 SS factory loads I need to try. Love the rifle and chambering
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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Originally Posted by 1minute
Have an Accumark in 30-378 that groups about the same. Other Weatherby's that do as well too, but they are builds. Have no real need, but I do want a 6.5.


Looking for an extremely flat-shooting rifle, I was looking at getting a 30-378, but it's too close to my .340, even though a bit flatter. So, I went smaller.

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Originally Posted by Judman
I love mine, had it built 4 years ago or so, I wouldn’t hesitate to reach for it to kill a bull. Mine loves the 140 Hornadys, hated the 127’s. Got some 130 SS factory loads I need to try. Love the rifle and chambering


Nice. What is your twist on that? And what is the bbl length?

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Originally Posted by Judman
I love mine, had it built 4 years ago or so, I wouldn’t hesitate to reach for it to kill a bull. Mine loves the 140 Hornadys, hated the 127’s. Got some 130 SS factory loads I need to try. Love the rifle and chambering
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Awesome picture JMan....


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I haven’t shot anything with mine yet ( no time). But I would not hesitate to shoot anything in North America with it.

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At a quick glance, the overall looks quite a bit like the .264 Win Mg and the 140gr. in that has been a great elk shooter for a long, long time.


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I recently acquired a 6.5-300 Weatherby 26” barrel burnt bronze cerakote with factory camo stock. Right out of the box it shot tiny groups with 127 gr LRX and 130 gr Scirocco Wby factory loads. I found a box of each to try and given near identical results, I grabbed 2 more boxes of the LRX. Also later found a box of 70 factory cases and couple of pounds of US869. I’m not so sure it outperforms my 7mm and .300 Weatherby Mags, but it should be more than adequate for elk and mule deer. I hope to find out this season!

PS: Looking at the ballistics tables, down range performance is very close and certainly more velocity than required for expansion of either bullet. I don’t shoot at much of anything past 500 yards anyway.

Last edited by WAM; 01/04/21.

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WAM, is your rifle a MkV, VG, or something else?

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
WAM, is your rifle a MkV, VG, or something else?

It’s a Vanguard Sub-MOA similar to the First Lite VG, but with Sitka Optifade Sub Alpine camo and no brake. Model exclusive to RMEF. I won it, but if I had bought one it might have been stainless. 8.5 lb with scope.

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Rem 700, broughton rem sporter 8”” @26” McMillan game scout 805 trigger and you see the gold ring on the scope. 😂😂


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Originally Posted by WAM
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
WAM, is your rifle a MkV, VG, or something else?

It’s a Vanguard Sub-MOA similar to the First Lite VG, but with Sitka Optifade Sub Alpine camo and no brake. Model exclusive to RMEF. I won it, but if I had bought one it might have been stainless. 8.5 lb with scope.


Thanks WAM. Glad to hear it's a 1-8" twist like mine.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by WAM
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
WAM, is your rifle a MkV, VG, or something else?

It’s a Vanguard Sub-MOA similar to the First Lite VG, but with Sitka Optifade Sub Alpine camo and no brake. Model exclusive to RMEF. I won it, but if I had bought one it might have been stainless. 8.5 lb with scope.


Thanks WAM. Glad to hear it's a 1-8" twist like mine.

I’m betting yours will shoot the LRX and SS just fine! I believe all the Weatherby rifles in 6.5-300 are 1:8 twist barrels. Happy Trails


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Last season 2 hunters drove out from Illinois to wack Idaho cow elk with the rifle they shared. Their problems was not with their rifle.

Rather than have them rezero and learn new dope, one of the guys gave 'em a familiarization run with his custom 6.5-300 WM shooting 143 gr. ELDX handloads. Then went out with them to get it done.

Now that is a really nice guy. Afterwards they started the drive back home with 2 elk in the coolers.

If that had been me, I'd given the rifle owner 1/2 an elk....


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Originally Posted by WAM

I’m betting yours will shoot the LRX and SS just fine! I believe all the Weatherby rifles in 6.5-300 are 1:8 twist barrels. Happy Trails


Keeping my fingers crossed.

Yeah, mine's a 1-8", like all the 6.5 Wbys.

I just also ordered 2 boxes of the 140gr C&C soft point ammo on GB. I'm basically hitting the "buy now" button on any 6.5-300 ammo until I build up a sizeable inventory.

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The 140 sp shoot really good in my rifle.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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Nice Jud! So, that's 1-8" twist Remington?

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Originally Posted by Judman
Rem 700, broughton rem sporter 8”” @26” McMillan game scout 805 trigger and you see the gold ring on the scope. 😂😂


I swear that barrel looks like it's 32" long.

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Yep 8” . It does look long, she’s 26” though. Pretty light contour


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I also see turrets?

You go over to the dark side? grin

Originally Posted by Judman
Rem 700, broughton rem sporter 8”” @26” McMillan game scout 805 trigger and you see the gold ring on the scope. 😂😂

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Strictly cosmetic!! Haha need to pull it and have cds installed.


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Question: This thing is “free floated,” but the stock touches the barrel. Should I take the stock off and sand it down so that it does not touch the barrel? It has a “full-length aluminum bedding plate,” but I’ve never looked at it to see what that means.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Nice moose. I'd free float it for sure.

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In your above scenario; Plug your ears because I'm about to shoot.

I do not know why but that is probably the first cartridge to tempt me into a new rifle in a long time.

But getting back to reality, I'm really not sure how you'll handle the recoil. grin

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
I’m asking all you prolific elk hunters whether you would consider using that cartridge on a Colorado mountain elk hunt where long shots may be the only ones.


Yeah, without a doubt.

My gripe with elk cartridge choices is focused on guys who use little guns in fairly heavy cover where, though the ranges is usually fairly short, it is difficult to really gauge the elk's body position 'cause you can't see lower legs / feet and don't know where the shoulder blade and front leg bone are precisely so you don't know if you've got a clean shot through comparatively soft tissue to get into the chest or you've got a big ol' hunka bone to break to get there. Our in the open where you can see the whole elk is a different game.

The only thing I'd want to do differently than you list is I'd focus on the 140 grain partition. Though it is a flat base, that cartridge will pitch it fast enough to open up and perform well within your 500 yard limit.

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Originally Posted by Ralphie
But getting back to reality, I'm really not sure how you'll handle the recoil. grin


I'll just shoot my .375 Wby first, and then it will feel like a 22LR.

It weighs in at 9.9 lbs, which should help as well.

I'm going to take the Vortex scope off, even though I like it. Just ordered a 42%-off Bushnell Forge FFP 4.5-27x 50mm, which is what is on my .340, except that that one is a SFP.

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Originally Posted by T_O_M
The only thing I'd want to do differently than you list is I'd focus on the 140 grain partition. Though it is a flat base, that cartridge will pitch it fast enough to open up and perform well within your 500 yard limit.


Thanks for the suggestion TOM. Unfortunately, no one loads the 140gr NP in the 6.5-300, and I don't handload. This cartridge may make me change that eventually. That, and wanting 265-gr ABLRs loaded in .340 Wby, which no one does.

I could convince myself to go beyond 500 yds, but only if the wind is calmer than normal, but I'm sure the NP would do that.

The area around the pond in the pics below is frequented by elk, the center of the pond is about 550 yds away.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I do like the NPs. Just one knocked this guy down in 2010:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]









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MarineHawk, my 11-year-old son saw me reading this thread, and asked me some questions about the moose in your OP, so I thought to ask the guy who would know the answers!

Where did you hunt that moose, and how did you decide that he was a trophy before you shot him? Thanks in advance for the answers.


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I’d shoot it first before I floated it myself since those WBYs tend to shoot well the way they come. Checking to see if it likes being floated only takes a minute to set up.

If that rifle shoots well and your optics do as they are supposed to that’ll get to 550 pretty quick MH. Not saying I’d take just any old shot but a broadside bull would be in big trouble with a fast mover like you’ve got.

JMan, that’s a cool shooting iron.


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Originally Posted by HuntnShoot
MarineHawk, my 11-year-old son saw me reading this thread, and asked me some questions about the moose in your OP, so I thought to ask the guy who would know the answers!

Where did you hunt that moose, and how did you decide that he was a trophy before you shot him? Thanks in advance for the answers.


It’s over 100 miles north of Dillingham. The lake we land on loaded is not big enough to take off loaded. So, we unload, and then the pilot picks us up 11 days later 48 miles down river on a big wide stretch that is an infinitely-long landing/take-off strip.

The only mammal I have shot at that I missed was a giant bear at about 450 yds. I should have aimed lower with the .340 Wby through the brush he was in, but I aimed for the spine, which was clearly visible. Just as I pulled the trigger, he dove into the ground after some animal or something. In the ½ second of the bullet’s flight, it went over him. We later saw a moose approaching us at one point, but when we got close, guide said that he was about 47”, just 3” below legal.

Then we had 3 days of terrible weather. 70mph – 80 mph gusts, constant driving rain. When that was over, we had to head down river—leaving prime brown bear country. I was still hunting from the raft and when and where we camped along the way. 7.5 miles along the way, at about 3:30pm on the last day of moose season, we approached one of the countless splits in the river, and the guide decided to go river left, as that looked a bit better then river right, although they both looked decently navigable.

Just as he was committing to the left current, we saw a large cow and her calf running down river on the right bank of river right. The guide managed through intense effort to make it back to the river right current before we had gone too far in the left current. The guide reminded me that, in mid-September, if you see a cow, there is certainly a bull nearby. I listened and looked down river where the cow and calf had run off to. All of the sudden, the guide took three decisive actions very quickly that could have saved me from going home empty handed.

He spotted a bull in the same clearing (now a little behind us on the right bank of river right) where we had seen the cow and calf running down river. From the front of the raft, I was looking away (i.e., the wrong way) down river in the direction the cow and calf had run off to, which was pointed down river. Then, before I saw anything, the guide quickly cranked the oars to spin the boat clockwise so that it was perpendicular to the river, and I was facing the right bank, and he yelled at the top of his lungs “SHOOT IT!!!!!!” Without seeing anything yet, for a fraction of a second, this all registered, and I shouldered my .340 Wby as I scanned the bank from left to right, figuring (giving the emphatic nature of the guide's voice) that I would see either a giant bear or a big bull on the right bank. Within a second, I had a giant bull in my crosshairs at about 60 yards away quickly running to the right (up river) within seconds to some dense alder brush and trees on the right bank that probably would have prevented us from ever seeing that bull again.

Within a second, just as my crosshairs covered his body, I squeezed the trigger on his front quarters. I wanted to shoot a bit more forward of where I otherwise might because he was jogging quickly to the right, and I didn’t want the bullet to hit too far rearward on his body in case I wasn’t leading enough or he sped up. That first shot went through both lungs and exited.

The bull then, while hit up front, sped up his pace going the same direction to the right. Within a second after the first shot, I shot him again. This one again went through both lungs and exited. It was behind where I was aiming, but I was just trying to hit the running bull with an anchoring shot at that point to slow him down. Now, he slowed down. A second later, I hit him a third time through the ribs, through his vitals, and through his left shoulder and stopped under the far hide. He hobbled about 20 yards further away to his left into the brush away from the river and was apparently going down. For a few seconds, I could see his giant antlers wavering back and forth in the one stationary place in the brush where he was going down.

Then, the fun part began.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]





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Originally Posted by beretzs
I’d shoot it first before I floated it myself since those WBYs tend to shoot well the way they come. Checking to see if it likes being floated only takes a minute to set up.

If that rifle shoots well and your optics do as they are supposed to that’ll get to 550 pretty quick MH. Not saying I’d take just any old shot but a broadside bull would be in big trouble with a fast mover like you’ve got.


Thanks Beretzs. That's what I was thinking. I doubt I will mess with the stock unless there is mediocre accuracy to improve. And that is a pretty hefty barrel, which may be somewhat resistant to any modest pressure from the stock.

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Great story in the bull! Congrats!


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Thanks Beretzs. It scored 231-1/2 on the B&C scale. The all-time record book qualification starts at 224. I looked up on the B&C website all moose that had exceeded 230 over the last 70 years. The hunters’ names appear on the list. Not one hunter ever registered two of those. So, I figure I’ve maxed out on moose hunting, and have moved on to other things closer on this part of the continent.

A few months ago, I noticed that I had a 3-lb bag of its backstraps mixed in the extra freezer with some more-recent deer meat, and my fiance and boys went ahead and grilled it. After six years, it was still really good.

Once I get my ammo, I will start shooting and collecting the empty cases for your brother if you want.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Question: This thing is “free floated,” but the stock touches the barrel. Should I take the stock off and sand it down so that it does not touch the barrel? It has a “full-length aluminum bedding plate,” but I’ve never looked at it to see what that means.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Shoot it first then take it from there.


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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Thanks Beretzs. It scored 231-1/2 on the B&C scale. The all-time record book qualification starts at 224. I looked up on the B&C website all moose that had exceeded 230 over the last 70 years. The hunters’ names appear on the list. Not one hunter ever registered two of those. So, I figure I’ve maxed out on moose hunting, and have moved on to other things closer on this part of the continent.

A few months ago, I noticed that I had a 3-lb bag of its backstraps mixed in the extra freezer with some more-recent deer meat, and my fiance and boys went ahead and grilled it. After six years, it was still really good.

Once I get my ammo, I will start shooting and collecting the empty cases for your brother if you want.



That tenderloin find was a SCORE.

YES sir, we’ll buy that brass when you’re ready.


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Originally Posted by beretzs
That tenderloin find was a SCORE.

YES sir, we’ll buy that brass when you’re ready.


Yeah, the backstraps on that thing were 25 lbs a piece. I thought we had eaten them all years ago. It was kind of cool to have one last taste of that moose. I cooked it like prime rib at 170 deg. on the gas grill for about 3-1/2 hours. I know that 6 years is beyond the normal expectancy, but it was awesome.

No need to buy the brass. It's yours. I'm not good at selling that type of stuff, so, it would just sit in the garage, along with other unusable things. I also have a lot of once-fired .375 Wby, .340 Wby, and 7mm Wby brass if you or anyone else is interested. Again, no charge.

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Scotty don’t shoot mine much but I’ll send ya my brass as well. 👍


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The last ones I ordered, the 140gr Interlocks, are now scheduled to appear first--tomorrow, one day before I get the new scope. So, I might just leave the scope on for now, and try them out. Hopefully, my bore-sighting worked better than last time. I think I've corrected the error.

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Thanks fellas. I appreciate it a ton. I figure anything that keeps my little brother energized and shooting is a good thing.

Again, that’s awesome fellas, thank you.

MH, it’s amazing how well meat holds up when it’s packaged up nicely. I’ve eaten some 16 killed elk a fee weeks back. Nothing but goodness.


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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
The last ones I ordered, the 140gr Interlocks, are now scheduled to appear first--tomorrow, one day before I get the new scope. So, I might just leave the scope on for now, and try them out. Hopefully, my bore-sighting worked better than last time. I think I've corrected the error.


If you decide to upgrade the stock MH, McM is making and shipping fast and the Sako Classic stock is darned nice on those Vanguards. I just got two in less than a month from ordering. Surprised my credit card quite a lot. grin


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I need to think about that Beretzs. I actually like and have had good success with the Wby MC stocks. They seem to recoil less than expected and fit me well. But, if there is an issue, I will regroup and rethink.

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Just got the first 6.5-300 ammo in today – the 140gr.

Scope arrives tomorrow, and the 130gr Sciroccos tomorrow or Friday. 127gr LRXs on Saturday.

Probably going to wait for the 130s and head out to the range on Friday.

Can you identify the five cartridges below, from left to right?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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5.56, 308, 7 Wby, 6.5 Wby, 340 Wby....

Looking good buddy!


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Originally Posted by beretzs
5.56, 308, 7 Wby, 6.5 Wby, 340 Wby....

Looking good buddy!


You got it.

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Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Sweet ballistics on that cartridge.

Post up the 140g ballistics if you will, please.

Ah, the search for the elusive cartridge that becomes your go-to rifle to fill that superstition, once you put one on the ground….lol.

Have fun with the new toy. Nice setup.

The 300 yd zero ballistics on the 127 is amazing….got my attention.


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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


243, 300 Win, 375 Wby

Last edited by ElkSlayer91; 01/07/21.

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243 300win 375wby

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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91

243, 300 Win, 375 Wby



Originally Posted by rosco1
243 300win 375wby


Yes.

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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Sweet ballistics on that cartridge.

Post up the 140g ballistics if you will, please.

Ah, the search for the elusive cartridge that becomes your go-to rifle to fill that superstition, once you put one on the ground….lol.

Have fun with the new toy. Nice setup.

The 300 yd zero ballistics on the 127 is amazing….got my attention.



And the 130 Sciroccos as well.

Thanks ES91. I will chrono everything with my Labradar and report back.

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PM sent.


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Originally Posted by WAM
PM sent.


Reply sent.

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Got five boxes of ammo and the scope mounted and bore-sighted.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Off to the range tomorrow.

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Nice. Looking forward to what you see on paper.


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Originally Posted by beretzs
Nice. Looking forward to what you see on paper.



I'm hopeful, but apprehensive. With that 27x, it will be all about the rifle, not me. Just rest it, put the crosshairs on the middle of the bullseye, and squeeze. Wait a few minutes to keep the barrel from heating up. Repeat. Keeping my fingers crossed.

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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


243, 300 Win, 375 Wby

Lol nice edit..it’s not nice to copy

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Lol.

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Originally Posted by rosco1
Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


243, 300 Win, 375 Wby

Lol nice edit..it’s not nice to copy

Truth?

I put 243 300 wby(didn't look close enough at the shoulder), and 378 wby (what I found in my Nosler #3 loading manual, they didn't show the 375 wby listed) I pulled up some pics and seen the difference with pics between the 378 and 375.

So, I originally tried to just delete my whole post, since it was wrong, and you got it right, but it wouldn't let me, so I "corrected it" (Kinda like a mulligan in golf).

Lastly, I knew you would point it out, so it'd give me this chance to expalin and further build my post count, so I, too, can look important on the internet......

At least I'm telling the truth here, like I always do, and can't be called a "liar".....LMAO


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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by rosco1
Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


243, 300 Win, 375 Wby

Lol nice edit..it’s not nice to copy

Truth?

I put 243 300 wby(didn't look close enough at the shoulder), and 378 wby (what I found in my Nosler #3 loading manual, they didn't show the 375 wby listed) I pulled up some pics and seen the difference with pics between the 378 and 375.

So, I originally tried to just delete my whole post, since it was wrong, and you got it right, but it wouldn't let me, so I "corrected it" (Kinda like a mulligan in golf).

Lastly, I knew you would point it out, so it'd give me this chance to expalin and further build my post count, so I, too, can look important on the internet......

At least I'm telling the truth here, like I always do, and can't be called a "liar".....LMAO


What a clown

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Originally Posted by rosco1
Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by rosco1
Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Just for fun, can you name the three additional cartridges?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


243, 300 Win, 375 Wby

Lol nice edit..it’s not nice to copy

Truth?

I put 243 300 wby(didn't look close enough at the shoulder), and 378 wby (what I found in my Nosler #3 loading manual, they didn't show the 375 wby listed) I pulled up some pics and seen the difference with pics between the 378 and 375.

So, I originally tried to just delete my whole post, since it was wrong, and you got it right, but it wouldn't let me, so I "corrected it" (Kinda like a mulligan in golf).

Lastly, I knew you would point it out, so it'd give me this chance to expalin and further build my post count, so I, too, can look important on the internet......

At least I'm telling the truth here, like I always do, and can't be called a "liar".....LMAO


What a clown

You should see me when I get serious.....


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375/378, it's all good. Hope you both have a great day.

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Took the rifle and the 130gr Sciroccos and 140gr Interlocks to the range today.

So far, the rifle seem to like the 140gr Interlocks a bit better. I was getting roughly 1-inch groups with the Sciroccos and around 3/4-inch groups with the Interlocks. Not quite as accurate as, for example, my .340 Wby with 225gr TTSXs. But more than good enough for hunting. Maybe I’ll do better next time. Generally, my Wbys seem to prefer Barnes and Nosler bullets the best, but that likely is just coincidence. While I was at the range, a shipment of the 127gr LRX ammo came in. So, I’m gonna try that out tomorrow. Maybe they’re “the one.”

Here’s my last group with the 140s, right at 3/4" – center to center:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

With a five-shot sample, the 130gr Sciroccos averaged 3,416 fps MV, and the 140gr Interlocks averaged 3,277 fps based on a 12-shot sample.

So, based on published BCs, this is what they should do (note that the center of scope is almost exactly 2” higher than the center of bore):

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

The Bushnell Forge 4.5-27X scope is an FFP one, and the first FFP I’ve owned. For a potential long-range rig, I like that the reticles are always 1 MOA apart at any magnification.


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I’ll be curious to see how the 127’s do, my rifle hated em. Saami chamber, broughton snout.


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Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.


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Don’t give up on SSlI’s. They can be harder to tweak than some, but capable of fine accuracy. Work with.COAL and jump, not too unlike a VLD. They’re known for good terminal performance, are pretty tough, can stand some speed.

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Originally Posted by the444shooter
Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.



I haven't taken it apart to check, but the Wby website sys that the Accuguard has the same "Full length aluminum bedding plate" as the Accumark, which I have in .340. https://weatherby.com/store/vanguard-accuguard/

But I see you’re saying that because of the Griptonite stock, it’s probably doesn’t have that? The GB entry said that it was “The Vanguard Stainless Accuguard,” which "is an exclusive Show Special for Sports, Inc. Members.” Maybe that’s different. Maybe I should get it free-floated like my MkV.

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I'd be willing to bet that it does not have the aluminum block. The Griptonite stocks aren't set up for them. I saw some of the same models last year (almost bought one in .257 Wby, but didn't)

It might be worth getting the aftermarket Bell and Carlson stock that they put on the upper-end Vanguards, and it will have the aluminum bedding block and floated barrel channel.


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Originally Posted by the444shooter
I'd be willing to bet that it does not have the aluminum block. The Griptonite stocks aren't set up for them. I saw some of the same models last year (almost bought one in .257 Wby, but didn't)

It might be worth getting the aftermarket Bell and Carlson stock that they put on the upper-end Vanguards, and it will have the aluminum bedding block and floated barrel channel.


Thanks!!! This one: http://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1152

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exactly that.


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Originally Posted by the444shooter
exactly that.


Thanks 444. You edumacated me.

Ordered in the black with grey spideys, just like the big-brother .340.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

When I ordered the rings for that thing, the guy on the phone said "blue, okay?" I thought he said "blued," but I've learned to live with it.

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MarineHawk thanks for writing up your moose hunt and posting more photos. My son ooh'ed and aaah'ed and oh geez'ed through the story! I'm grateful.

Do you handload? Like Dirtfarmer said, don't give up on the Sciroccos yet if you do. They have required some tweaking of seating depth in all but one rifle, after finding a consistent powder charge, for me.


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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by the444shooter
exactly that.


Thanks 444. You edumacated me.

Ordered in the black with grey spideys, just like the big-brother .340.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

When I ordered the rings for that thing, the guy on the phone said "blue, okay?" I thought he said "blued," but I've learned to live with it.


Funny about the rings, had the same thing happen with a trigger guard. Blued not blue dammit!

Sciroccos do indeed shoot well, but tend to take a little more work. I really liked the first version of them, the S2 holds together better but are a tad sticky in the bore IME. Can’t quite get the speed out of them before hitting pressure.

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Originally Posted by HuntnShoot
MarineHawk thanks for writing up your moose hunt and posting more photos. My son ooh'ed and aaah'ed and oh geez'ed through the story! I'm grateful.

Do you handload? Like Dirtfarmer said, don't give up on the Sciroccos yet if you do. They have required some tweaking of seating depth in all but one rifle, after finding a consistent powder charge, for me.



Thanks for the nice message HNS. The funny part to me was that we finished about 2/3 of the skinning and butchering by about 9:30 pm. We hung our sweaty shirts on the horns to hopefully dissuade any bears from stealing the moose. Went back to the only place to put up a tent, about 100 yds away. Guide started cooking dinner, and I put up the tent. The moose wasn't visible from where we had to camp. We were at least 80 miles from the nearest road or building and likely dozens of miles from the nearest person. I built a huge trash and driftwood fire to hopefully help keep bears away from the moose. Started drinking with/after dinner. Stayed up to 3:30 am, during which, every 30 minutes or so, I would fire my 10mm semi-auto into the air and we would scream juvenile obscenities at any potential bear thief. I got up at 7:30 am, donned my waders, and was thankful that the moose was still there.

I won't give up on the SS, but I don't reload--yet. I will try the 127gr LRXs, and put the new free-floating stock on, and work again with everything. The SSs didn't do poorly, and are good enough for elk hunting I think. The 140gr ILs were just a bit better. Gonna play around with it and see what I can get. I'm also pretty frazzled and sleep-deprived from work right now. So, maybe a day off will help. I've basically given my 16-yr-old son my 7mm Wby, which this new one somewhat duplicates, only a bit flatter. So, I think I'm going back to the range tomorrow, while he's at work, and then again on Sunday, when we will alternate the 7mm and the 6.5-300.

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MH,

Great posts and congrats on your exceptional Alaskan moose, that's a hell'va bull.

I think your rig will be fine once you get everything worked out. I have 2 friends who use Accumarks in 30-378 on CO elk out to 1000yds. Last season my friend's wife took her bull at 433yds lasered no problem next hill over from where I killed my buck.

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Originally Posted by rosco1

Funny about the rings, had the same thing happen with a trigger guard. Blued not blue dammit!



Yeah, a single consonant can make a difference. Who knew?

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Originally Posted by Judman
Rem 700, broughton rem sporter 8”” @26” McMillan game scout 805 trigger and you see the gold ring on the scope. 😂😂


Damn bud......Nice.......


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Originally Posted by MtnHtr
MH,

Great posts and congrats on your exceptional Alaskan moose, that's a hell'va bull.

I think your rig will be fine once you get everything worked out. I have 2 friends who use Accumarks in 30-378 on CO elk out to 1000yds. Last season my friend's wife took her bull at 433yds lasered no problem next hill over from where I killed my buck.



Thanks MtnHtr. Dang, 1,000 yards! That's amazing and beyond my goals, especially where I'm going to be hunting.

I was contemplating either a 30-378 or the 6.5-300, because they both equally would fill an unnecessary desire for the ultimate flat-shooting rig. But every time I ran the numbers, the 30-378 came out, better than, but too close to, my .340, and my son has latched on to my 7mm Wby--leaving a hole in that component of my arsenal,

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Two of them (father-son) have been doing it a long time, they also have a Rem 700 Sendero in 300WM. They pick their shots carefully and will pass if it's too windy. Handload Barnes 180gr TTSX work well for them.




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Originally Posted by MtnHtr
Two of them (father-son) have been doing it a long time, they also have a Rem 700 Sendero in 300WM. They pick their shots carefully and will pass if it's too windy. Handload Barnes 180gr TTSX work well for them.


Cool. How fast does the 30-378 launch the 180s? If I had one of those, I would like to try the 190 ABLR in it.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by MtnHtr
Two of them (father-son) have been doing it a long time, they also have a Rem 700 Sendero in 300WM. They pick their shots carefully and will pass if it's too windy. Handload Barnes 180gr TTSX work well for them.


Cool. How fast does the 30-378 launch the 180s? If I had one of those, I would like to try the 190 ABLR in it.


30-378 Ballistics




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Thanks MtnHtr. Some of the Wby published MV numbers are a bit optimistic, some are fairly accurate, and some of their downrange numbers are illogical. For example, for the 6.5-300 (https://weatherby.com/store/6-5-300-weatherby-magnum/), they have, at 500 yards, the 140gr AB going 76 fps faster than the 140gr Interlock, but they have the 140gr Interlock putting out 163 fpe than the 140gr AB at the same distance.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Thanks MtnHtr. Some of the Wby published MV numbers are a bit optimistic, some are fairly accurate, and some of their downrange numbers are illogical. For example, for the 6.5-300 (https://weatherby.com/store/6-5-300-weatherby-magnum/), they have, at 500 yards, the 140gr AB going 76 fps faster than the 140gr Interlock, but they have the 140gr Interlock putting out 163 fpe than the 140gr AB at the same distance.


I texted two of them, both handload.

200 grain accubond, 3300 fps using Retumbo

180gr TTSX 3450fps using H4831





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Thanks for going to the trouble to find out. That is an impressive round.

I just ran the numbers, and, at 10,000 ft elevation, that 200gr AB is still moving at 2,230 fps with 2,200 fpe at 1,000 yards. At 600 yds, it produces more energy than a 30-06 at the muzzle.

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MH,

A few more details.

My friend texted with the 200 Accubond he killed a buck at 1200 and clear through a cow elk at 770.

The other friend texted another hunter using his Accumark 30-378 dropped a bull at 950yds with the Barnes 180 and he dropped a cow at 460yds. He also texted multiple muleys at 550yds +.




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Wow!

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Originally Posted by the444shooter
Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.


Originally Posted by the444shooter
Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.



I’d run the 140’s through any elk shoulder, quartering too or away.


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if i was young and full of piss and vinegar i would have purchsed a 6.5x300 a great cartridge 30 years ago , i always thought i should have rebarreled a rifle to this fine cartridge but at 67 years of age the mountains seem to be getting taller and harder to climb up, so i will just use what i have now. but a 6.5x300 would be a very fine elk cartridge !


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Nice shooting. I wouldn’t judge the new rifle too hard till you’ve had a few shooting and cleanings on the new bore.

Sounds like it’s going to be a fine rifle.

That 200 AB at any speed from 2700 to 3200 has been an incredible hunting Bullet for us. I goof around with a lot of bullets but other than the Scirrocos I dig the Accubonds. Pretty danged versatile Bullet. I’d like a 200 grain Scirroco for my RUM.


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At the range right now with my son waiting in line for an open lane. Son will shoot the 7mm Wby, and me the 127gr LRXs through the 6.5-300.

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Yeah, Beretzs, I would like to get the 265gr ABLRs loaded for the .340. They have a BC of 0.732.

My range session today was mostly-dedicated to my son and his 7mm Wby.

I shot 6 of the 127gr LRXs and got two appx-1” groups. I think I’m going to wait until the B&C stock arrives and go from there.

I chronoed three of the 127gr LRXs, and got 3,374, 3,387, 3,366, for an average of 3,376 fps out of a 26” bbl. That’s 155 fps less than Wby claims. My chrono results for the 130gr SSs was 60 fps slower than advertised, and the 140gr ILs were only 27 fps slower than advertised.

Question about the B&C stocks: The 9-lug version of what I am getting (which is what I have on my .340 Accumark) says: “Full aluminum bedding block extends from the grip to the front swivel stud, free floated barrel.”

The VG long-action version says: “Full aluminum bedding block extends from the grip to the front swivel stud, pressure pad.”

They do not have one that says “free floated barrel,” instead of “pressure pad” for the VGs. Is there a reason for that?

That .340 Wby with the free-floated barrel is the most accurate rifle I ever have shot. It's got the same barrel as the Accuguard.

Once I get the stock for the 6.5-300, should I just grind away this pressure pad in order to free-float it, or should I consider glass bedding it?

Any thoughts would be most welcome.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk


Once I get the stock for the 6.5-300, should I just grind away this pressure pad in order to free-float it, or should I consider glass bedding it?



Free-float or bust




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Originally Posted by MtnHtr
Originally Posted by MarineHawk


Once I get the stock for the 6.5-300, should I just grind away this pressure pad in order to free-float it, or should I consider glass bedding it?



Free-float or bust


That's how I feel too. I was just wondering if there's something about the different actions that made free-floating more disadvantageous, such as how tightly the action fits into the stock. But, I'll likely grind down the pressure point, shoot it, and then, if no good, bed it.

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That’s strange that your rifle got less than advertised velocity from the 127 gr LRX. I’ve never failed to get advertised velocity from Weatherby factory loads in my Mark V’s. Certainly all things are possible, including a chronograph error/bias. Happy Trails


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My former riflesmith once told me a good barrel should never need a pressure point. I found that true on numerous bolt rifles both custom and factory. If the barrel does need a pressure point to shoot well then something is amiss, it's a bandaid solution. Others will disagree but that's been my experience.




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Originally Posted by WAM
That’s strange that your rifle got less than advertised velocity from the 127 gr LRX. I’ve never failed to get advertised velocity from Weatherby factory loads in my Mark V’s. Certainly all things are possible, including a chronograph error/bias. Happy Trails


Anything's possible WAM. But my Labradar always has come out consistent with my Magnetospeed and my Pro Chrono in the past. Though, for that reason, and the convenience of the LR, I've given away the other two.

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Originally Posted by MtnHtr
My former riflesmith once told me a good barrel should never need a pressure point. I found that true on numerous bolt rifles both custom and factory. If the barrel does need a pressure point to shoot well then something is amiss, it's a bandaid solution. Others will disagree but that's been my experience.


That was my thinking as well. I may call B&C to see if they have an explanation.

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Does the Accuguard synthetic come with a #3 barrel? If so it should be free floated. I owned the SS accuguard with the B&C stock 300 wby(factory free floated) and it shot lights out. The only thing I would be concerned on is how the synthetic stock will handle being free floated if it is not already.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by MtnHtr
My former riflesmith once told me a good barrel should never need a pressure point. I found that true on numerous bolt rifles both custom and factory. If the barrel does need a pressure point to shoot well then something is amiss, it's a bandaid solution. Others will disagree but that's been my experience.


That was my thinking as well. I may call B&C to see if they have an explanation.


Does that include rifles that have barrels bedded completely like a NULA or Barrett Fieldcraft? My Barrett shoots very well. Also, my pre 64s Standard models have a barrel bump from what I have read and they shoot very well too. Is the barrel bump a solution to get mass produced barrels to shoot well?

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Originally Posted by Just a Hunter
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by MtnHtr
My former riflesmith once told me a good barrel should never need a pressure point. I found that true on numerous bolt rifles both custom and factory. If the barrel does need a pressure point to shoot well then something is amiss, it's a bandaid solution. Others will disagree but that's been my experience.


That was my thinking as well. I may call B&C to see if they have an explanation.


Does that include rifles that have barrels bedded completely like a NULA or Barrett Fieldcraft? My Barrett shoots very well. Also, my pre 64s Standard models have a barrel bump from what I have read and they shoot very well too. Is the barrel bump a solution to get mass produced barrels to shoot well?


I'm not an expert but it might well be. The bumps dampen barrel vibration I was told. Some barrels have alot of vibration and some don't. Barrel harmonics.




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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Does the Accuguard synthetic come with a #3 barrel? If so it should be free floated. I owned the SS accuguard with the B&C stock 300 wby(factory free floated) and it shot lights out. The only thing I would be concerned on is how the synthetic stock will handle being free floated if it is not already.


Yes, it has a #3 bbl. My free-floated .340 Accumark with a #3 also shoots lights out. It is a fairly-hefty piece of steel. I also think I'll call B&C to see if, in some manner, the new VG stock is not designed for free floating.

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Originally Posted by MtnHtr
Originally Posted by Just a Hunter
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by MtnHtr
My former riflesmith once told me a good barrel should never need a pressure point. I found that true on numerous bolt rifles both custom and factory. If the barrel does need a pressure point to shoot well then something is amiss, it's a bandaid solution. Others will disagree but that's been my experience.


That was my thinking as well. I may call B&C to see if they have an explanation.


Does that include rifles that have barrels bedded completely like a NULA or Barrett Fieldcraft? My Barrett shoots very well. Also, my pre 64s Standard models have a barrel bump from what I have read and they shoot very well too. Is the barrel bump a solution to get mass produced barrels to shoot well?


I'm not an expert but it might well be. The bumps dampen barrel vibration I was told. Some barrels have alot of vibration and some don't. Barrel harmonics.


That's what I assumed as well, and also that a fully and properly bedded barrel really doesn't have any pressure points, as all surfaces of the barrel and action are in contact with the bedding.

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Just talked to a seemingly-knowledgeable lady at B&C. She told me that, with the stocks with the full-length aluminum bedding block, but with the pressure pad, instead of free floating, if you grind off the pressure pad, the barrel will drop because the stock does not fully bed the action. So, I may try it out as is, and if I'm not happy, then have the action fully bedded and float the barrel. She said that they just make them to Wby specs, and have no input into that.

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Just noticed that that there are a few B&C VG long action stocks that are free-floated, but all but one is for #2-countour barrels, which means I would have to sand down the barrel chamber. But this one is for #3 contour: https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1134

So, I switched my order to that.

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I'd shoot it with the pressure point first. Shoot some groups with the ammo.

Then, just to see if it shoots better floated, add a couple plastic bread ties under the forward part of the action, near the recoil lug in order to float it. Compare the groups. Then you'll know which direction you need to go. Easier to assess it both ways before trying to add it back if it does indeed shoot better with a pressure point.


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Thanks for the suggestions Beretzs, but I changed my order to the one linked immediately above, and it comes with no pressure points--free floated. And it's already shipped. So, I will try that route, and am cautiously optimistic. I also could full-length bed it, but hopefully that won't be necessary.

The #3 contour barrel on the 6.5-300 is pretty robust. Here it is next to a #2 (standard) contour 7mm Wby:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Ain't nothing to do but bolt it up!

Sounds like it is doing pretty decent across the board though.


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Agreed Beretzs. I was, and still am, hoping to get it close to the NASA-like accuracy of my .340 Wby, but I also realize I don't need that. I just like the idea of precision.

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Originally Posted by Judman
Originally Posted by the444shooter
Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.


Originally Posted by the444shooter
Hopefully the 127s shoot for you. With that particular model of Vanguard, I don't believe it was supposed to be floated, nor does it have the aluminum bedding block. I just has the factory Griptonite stock on it. The Accuguards with the Bell and Carlson stocks have the aluminum chassis, however. I've been paying attention to your posts because the 6.5x300 has me intrigued as well. The 140 interlocks at that velocity might be a little on the soft side for elk, but would still certainly do the job behind the shoulder.

Anxiously waiting to see how the 127s shoot.



I’d run the 140’s through any elk shoulder, quartering too or away.


Whatever you're confident in. The only experience I have on a non-bonded/non-mono hit on an elk shoulder was a 162gr ELD-X at 285yds from a 7mm Mag. Impact velocity of around 2500fps, and after hitting the shoulder blade, the jacket and shrapnel only made it into the first lung. Granted, an ELD-X has the ballistic tip to initiate greater expansion, but it's still only got an interlock ring just like the 140gr that MarineHawk is shooting. And that's a pretty mild impact velocity to only make it a few inches.


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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Agreed Beretzs. I was, and still am, hoping to get it close to the NASA-like accuracy of my .340 Wby, but I also realize I don't need that. I just like the idea of precision.


I'd bet it'll be good once that barrel settles in a little as well.


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Thanks Beretzs. I still have most of the ammo in the three variants I have. The stock is in, or has passed through, Earth City, MO. Allegedly, it should be here Friday afternoon.

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I got the new stock.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I installed it. It’s free floated now.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I’m hoping to shoot it this afternoon.

One question though: When I first installed the action in the stock, when I was done, it had just a little bit more room between the barrel and one side of the channel than it did on the other side. So, I loosened the action screws and pulled it a bit toward the side of the wider gap when I retightened them.

So, now, it’s centered, at least optically, in the middle of the channel:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Q1: Would it have mattered if I didn’t do that?

Q2: Did I use the correct approach (that I just made up) for remedying that?

Many thanks in advance for any comments.

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If it shoots well like that, I’d tape the barrel so it’s centered in the barrel channel and bed the recoil lug with a little Marine Tex or whatever your choice is.

Off center and touching the stock definitely could make a difference. Hard to tell though without shooting it.

Good luck at the range.


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Originally Posted by beretzs
If it shoots well like that, I’d tape the barrel so it’s centered in the barrel channel and bed the recoil lug with a little Marine Tex or whatever your choice is.

Off center and touching the stock definitely could make a difference. Hard to tell though without shooting it.

Good luck at the range.


Thanks Beretzs. It wasn't touching the stock on either side, at least at rest, it just was a bit closer to one side. I think I'll shoot it and see what happens.

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[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

This one was an impulse buy a couple of years ago. Accuguard in a B&C and factory free floated all the way to the reciever. The forend on mine looks noticeably thinner. I guess I should get out and shoot it.

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Nice looking rifle JL. grin

That's 6.5-300?

If so, what does it like to shoot?

My stock is the "M40" style, which was the only one B&C currently carries for the long-action VGs that has a free-floated channel for the #3 contour barrels.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Nice looking rifle JL. grin

That's 6.5-300?

If so, what does it like to shoot?

My stock is the "M40" style, which was the only one B&C currently carries for the long-action VGs that has a free-floated channel for the #3 contour barrels.


I've got loaded shells along with brass, bullets and powder with a set of dies so I really should get off my arse and shoot the thing-it's been sitting in the safe.

Maybe I'll take it to the campfire hog hunt this year to perforate a hog or two and perhaps another Oryx.

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Thanks for the info JL. If you don't mind saying, does your rifle prefer any particular bullets or loads?

I just got back from the range. Got mostly 3/4” to 1-1/4” groups with all three of the 6.5-300 loads I have. This time, the 140s underperformed the other two. Don't know if the new stock could make that happen or it's coincidence.

I was waiting about four minutes between shots to keep from overheating the barrel.

Then, when it was time to go home, I just let it rip with the last five rounds I had with me of the 127gr LRXs, one after another.

Oddly, that was my best result.

I shot the last two on a separate target, but the center of all five would have been within 1/2” of each other.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Maybe the barrel's settling in. Who knows? I think the new stock helps. The action didn’t budge by all appearances during my shooting spree.

Probably going to go back again this weekend and play around some more.


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Myself, I shoot 3 rounds thru the gun about as fast as I can accurately as I can run the bolt, breathe and aim. I have found that waiting in between shots definitely doesn't help us much as a shooter nor tell us what the gun will truly do as it heats up in a hunting scenario. Your last group kinda bears that out as well, you buckled in, ran the gun then let it cool. I know the gun will get hot, but shooting 3 rounds like that and you'll probably have more years out of that barrel than you can imagine, even with the firebreathing 6.5.

The LRX's look really darned good right there.

Might be worth trying to shoot 3 shots without getting off the gun next time MH. Seen if it nets you any different results, but to me, it looks like you have a shooter on your hands with the 127's.


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Thanks for the good advice Beretzs.

Part of it is I seem to get tighter groups with my .340 doing the way I did, but that also could be a coincidence.

Either way, I generally fire the first three shots of a range session in fairly quick succession, including today, which makes me think that, in the hunting scenarios, the rifle never will get hot, because those first three never seem to cause the barrel to get very warm. It's just that, after that, it seems to keep getting hotter and hotter if I don't leave some time between shots. I usually bring two rifles, so I can rotate. I think I'll do that next time, and do what you're saying, only maybe waiting ten minutes between each group while shooting something else and/or reading the 24HCF on my phone--to let the rifle cool between sets.

Unsurprisingly, the heavier barrel I have tends to heat up more slowly, but it also cools down more slowly.

Have a good weekend.

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Give it a whirl. I’d bet in these temps 10-15 minutes between groups is plenty to let it cool.

Can’t hurt. Your 127 groups bear that out.


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Unfortunately, it was about 70 F where I was.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Elite Shooting Sports.

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A bit delayed so I could bring my son along, but my almost 17-yr-old boy and I went to the range with my 6.5-300 Wby Accuguard and “his” 7mm Wby MkV ULW. Because I liked the preliminary results from putting a B&C free-floating stock on the 6.5-300, my son bought one for his 7mm Wby with his Christmas money from grandpa.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Great session. The two groups below were our best, but they were all good until the barrels started getting hot.

He was firing Cor-Bon loaded 160 TSXs at a MV of 3,240 fps, and I, as indicated above, was firing 127gr LRXs at 3,376 fps.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

His, on the left, measures right at 0.3”, and mine, on the right, was 0.4”. I still couldn’t get the Siroccos to come in under an inch. Maybe that will change, because I’d like to do that.

Note, we had to use those silly targets because the range was out of the normal ones.

I won’t be able to take him elk hunting until 2022 because of school and that he, unfortunately, is the son of my ex-wife. But, we’re both getting lined up as far as rifles. I think I’ll take the 6.5-300 this year, even though it’ll be hard to leave behind my beloved .340 Accumark.

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I’d say you’ve got two sure things right there. Nothing to blame on ammo there. That 127 LRX would be some serious elk medicine in my opinion. Bet it’d take a lot of elk to stop one.


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Thanks Beretzs. I'm collecting a fair amount of brass for your brother.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Thanks Beretzs. I'm collecting a fair amount of brass for your brother.


Excellent. It’ll be good to meet up.


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Cool. Looking forward to it.

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Mine puts the factory 130 gr Scirocco into about the same group, maybe a little larger, as the 127 gr LRX. The Scirocco has a bit better BC and the LRX a little more speed. If you compare the downrange ballistics of both, there doesn’t seem to be any appreciable difference. Factory LRX ammo for now but I have laid in components and dies to reload down the road.


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Thanks for the info, WAM. My rifle actually fires the factory loaded 130gr Sciroccos 40 fps than the factory loaded 127gr LRXs, if my chrono is correct, and I think it is.

Does your rifle like the 140gr bullets, if you have tried them?

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Have successfully taken mule deer and elk, bull and numerous cows, with the 127 LRX with muzzle velocity from 2800 to 3067 fps. Impact velocity on the bull at 810 yds, my farthest, was about 1700-1800 fps. He dropped like a rock as the POI was a skootch high (CNS hit). It's a phenomenal bullet and at your stated max of 600 will work exceptionally well. When we test these at Barnes Bullets for expansion and accuracy they are typically quite accurate and expand as designed.

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Originally Posted by GSSP
Have successfully taken mule deer and elk, bull and numerous cows, with the 127 LRX with muzzle velocity from 2800 to 3067 fps. Impact velocity on the bull at 810 yds, my farthest, was about 1700-1800 fps. He dropped like a rock as the POI was a skootch high (CNS hit). It's a phenomenal bullet and at your stated max of 600 will work exceptionally well. When we test these at Barnes Bullets for expansion and accuracy they are typically quite accurate and expand as designed.

Alan


At least you spell your Allen correctly! Me too.

Thanks for the info.

So, what's the difference between the LRX and the TTSX? They look very similar inside and out. Is the LRX just a longer/heavier TTSX? Or is there more to it than that?

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by GSSP
Have successfully taken mule deer and elk, bull and numerous cows, with the 127 LRX with muzzle velocity from 2800 to 3067 fps. Impact velocity on the bull at 810 yds, my farthest, was about 1700-1800 fps. He dropped like a rock as the POI was a skootch high (CNS hit). It's a phenomenal bullet and at your stated max of 600 will work exceptionally well. When we test these at Barnes Bullets for expansion and accuracy they are typically quite accurate and expand as designed.

Alan


At least you spell your Allen correctly! Me too.

Thanks for the info.

So, what's the difference between the LRX and the TTSX? They look very similar inside and out. Is the LRX just a longer/heavier TTSX? Or is there more to it than that?

Alan


IIRC, the boattail is different, allowing for a better BC and the lower expansion velocity is lower, 1600 fps, IIRC. I've always said the correct way to spell it was "ALAN"!!!

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Originally Posted by GSSP
IIRC, the boattail is different, allowing for a better BC and the lower expansion velocity is lower, 1600 fps, IIRC. I've always said the correct way to spell it was "ALAN"!!!


I couldn't find the lower velocity limit on the Barnes website, but maybe I didn't look hard enough.

Yeah, more than one L and/or an E in Alan is just wrong.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
[quote=GSSP]IIRC, the boattail is different, allowing for a better BC and the lower expansion velocity is lower, 1600 fps, IIRC. I've always said the correct way to spell it was "ALAN"!!!


I couldn't find the lower velocity limit on the Barnes website, but maybe I didn't look hard enough.

Yeah, more than one L and/or an E in Alan is just wrong.
[/quote

]It's not actually on the website. For most any bullet's specs, you should email or call our CS folks; Chase or Ryan. I personally shoot the 127 and we just happen to be in production of the 120 TTSX and have the specs at hand as i'm testing them. I'm working the graveyard shift as we type. I did verify the 120 is designed to open as low as 1700 fps and the 127 would be 1600 fps.

Alan





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MH, I have not tried the 140 gr bullets. My velocity comment was based on the Weatherby claim on each load. Both shot well. I have come to trust velocities posted by Weatherby for Weatherby rifles, but don’t doubt your chronograph either. I just never got Sciroccos to shoot in .30 cal rifles. Just love my Barnes....


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Thanks for the info WAM. I just found and bought two more boxes of the 127s on GB for $65/box. One guy has been hoarding them and successfully selling them on GB for $149/box. He had about 20 boxes and they all sold. Glad I didn't have to pay that. Some ammo places are selling the stuff when it comes out at the normal, pre-COVID, prices even thought they MUST know they can get more. Strange, but good.

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I think I paid $69 for the last 2 boxes that I bought. I also have the bullets and brass to load 50 more. I am trying to keep the barrel round count low, so I will do my practice shooting with a 7mm Weatherby that is set up the same as the 6.5 and 300’s. I plan to hunt mule deer with the 6.5 this fall and maybe elk. Happy Trails


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6.5 Bee Accumark from the WBY Custom shop.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Rifle wears a Zeiss 4x16x44mm now.
I will be working on the 124 Absolute hammer bullet. Because of the minimal bearing surface and design pressures stay quite low so you compensate with more powder. I should easily see 3700 fps!


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Originally Posted by GSSP
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
[quote=GSSP]IIRC, the boattail is different, allowing for a better BC and the lower expansion velocity is lower, 1600 fps, IIRC. I've always said the correct way to spell it was "ALAN"!!!


I couldn't find the lower velocity limit on the Barnes website, but maybe I didn't look hard enough.

Yeah, more than one L and/or an E in Alan is just wrong.
[/quote

]It's not actually on the website. For most any bullet's specs, you should email or call our CS folks; Chase or Ryan. I personally shoot the 127 and we just happen to be in production of the 120 TTSX and have the specs at hand as i'm testing them. I'm working the graveyard shift as we type. I did verify the 120 is designed to open as low as 1700 fps and the 127 would be 1600 fps.

Alan





My 26 Nos shoots the 120 TTSX and the 120 E-Tip more accurately than the 127 LRX, half MOA vs MOA.

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Fotis: Thanks for the info. The 127gr LRX seems to be the only thing Weatherby is producing right now. It keeps showing up on GB, but nothing else, except for older boxes of other variants occasionally.

Thanks for the info Dirtfarmer. Good shooting and info.

I know I'm insane, but I have a bit of Christmas money left from my father, and so I just ordered a new Accumark in 6.5-300 Wby and the same Bushnell Forge scope. So, I'm going to have two in that caliber soon, and will play around with both before deciding on which one to bring to Colorado in October.


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Dang! I like it! Jumping in with both feet!


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You will not regret it. I have the 30-378 and 6.5-300 in Accumark and really like the way both shoot. My 6.5 likes the 127 LRX the best in both Weatherby factory and my loads using US869. It handles the 140's ok but the group seems to open up a bit. I have never elk hunted with it since I have the 30-378 but would not be opposed to it. Good luck and like my Pop always said you can save gas in a VW but there is no substitute for cubic inches. Oh...and if you don't reload, I will buy all the 6.5-300 brass you want to sell me...LOL

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Thanks the info and comments RL. I really love my Accumark in .340, which is the most accurate rifle I ever have shot. The Accuguard in 6.5-300 also is shooting well with the 127s. Just got two more boxes of those in the mail today. The scope, rings, and base arrive on Friday. Rifle is set to arrive at the local FFL on Friday, which means I likely can pick it up on Saturday or Sunday.

Unfortunately, I already offered my brass to Beretzs for his younger brother.

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There is a ULW 6.5-300 at my LGS that is brand spanking new in the box on consignment(estate sale). It has the thread protector instead of a brake which can't be found anywhere. I am probably going to buy it in the next few days because it is priced that low. I spoke to Weatherby today concerning their ammo and was surprised to find out they are making ammo in house now. This will be a Handloading proposition.

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Cool Oldelkhunter. As noted above, I have one MkV ULW in 7mm Wby that I have transitioned to my older son. He bought a B&C free-floating stock, and the rifle seems a little less finicky now. The ULWs have dual pressure pads up front. YMMV.

Good luck if you get it. It seems like a really high-performance long-distance cartridge for anything other than the largest mammals on earth.

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
There is a ULW 6.5-300 at my LGS that is brand spanking new in the box on consignment(estate sale). It has the thread protector instead of a brake which can't be found anywhere. I am probably going to buy it in the next few days because it is priced that low. I spoke to Weatherby today concerning their ammo and was surprised to find out they are making ammo in house now. This will be a Handloading proposition.



That is what Weatherby told me as well. The rep. said this spring they expect to have Weatherby ammo more available - just not sure what "more available" really means. I agree the high octane Weatherby chamberings are handloading propositions but whether handloads or factory loads it is pretty cool to shoot at distances that you need to drive the truck to - didn't say I was good at it but sure is fun.

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In house Wby ammo. Wow, that's interesting.

Their ammo, IIRC, has long been a Norma product and expensive. I'm guessing they're just assembling components in house, but that's still good news. Probably a good move with this new gun hostile administration. Ammo and gun imports are probably gonna get whacked, probably sooner than later.

Hopefully, that will help with availability.

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Its still expensive! LOL!


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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
In house Wby ammo. Wow, that's interesting.

Their ammo, IIRC, has long been a Norma product and expensive. I'm guessing they're just assembling components in house, but that's still good news. Probably a good move with this new gun hostile administration. Ammo and gun imports are probably gonna get whacked, probably sooner than later.

Hopefully, that will help with availability.

DF



Weatherby uses a lot of American made premium bullets which are shipped to Sweden and assembled and probably hit with a hefty vat tax and then shipped back here as completed ammo and who knows what the tariffs are on that stuff, not to mention lengthy delays due to the Covid scam.

The 6.5-300 ULW I was looking at is still at the LGS. I am going to give it a 2 week aging period and if it still there then I buy it . grin They somehow lost the brake that belongs to this rifle and I called Weatherby last week and asked about a new one. I would have to ship them the rifle to install it and it would be 178 bucks...Not.

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Weatherby uses a lot of American made premium bullets which are shipped to Sweden and assembled and probably hit with a hefty vat tax and then shipped back here as completed ammo and who knows what the tariffs are on that stuff, not to mention lengthy delays due to the Covid scam.

The 6.5-300 ULW I was looking at is still at the LGS. I am going to give it a 2 week aging period and if it still there then I buy it . grin They somehow lost the brake that belongs to this rifle and I called Weatherby last week and asked about a new one. I would have to ship them the rifle to install it and it would be 178 bucks...Not.



My new MkV one that I will pick up shortly comes with a brake and a thread protector to replace it I think. I doubt I ever will use the brake. Recoil not bad at all without one. If anything might cause me to flinch, I most-likely would be the sound of the discharge with the brake on.

I'm surprised though that the brake isn't fairly standard and would just screw on where the thread protector is on your rifle, without the need for them possessing your rifle.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Weatherby uses a lot of American made premium bullets which are shipped to Sweden and assembled and probably hit with a hefty vat tax and then shipped back here as completed ammo and who knows what the tariffs are on that stuff, not to mention lengthy delays due to the Covid scam.

The 6.5-300 ULW I was looking at is still at the LGS. I am going to give it a 2 week aging period and if it still there then I buy it . grin They somehow lost the brake that belongs to this rifle and I called Weatherby last week and asked about a new one. I would have to ship them the rifle to install it and it would be 178 bucks...Not.



My new MkV one that I will pick up shortly comes with a brake and a thread protector to replace it I think. I doubt I ever will use the brake. Recoil not bad at all without one. If anything might cause me to flinch, I most-likely would be the sound of the discharge with the brake on.

I'm surprised though that the brake isn't fairly standard and would just screw on where the thread protector is on your rifle, without the need for them possessing your rifle.


On the box label It says with accubrake. The "Rep" told me that there might have been differences in the thread and Weatherby prefers to have the rifle in hand in case it has to be recut. I told him that was not going to happen if I ended up buying the rifle. It is a newer model, I believe right before they moved to Wyoming. The funny thing is I have an accu brake sitting in the gunsafe off a 270 WBY.

Weatherby wanted me to send in my rifle to get the trigger tech trigger installed, said it would need fitting all for over 200 bucks. TT had a Black Friday sale and I picked one up for 150 and fit it myself, it is a remarkable upgrade over the trigger on my 1995 Mark V.

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
On the box label It says with accubrake. The "Rep" told me that there might have been differences in the thread and Weatherby prefers to have the rifle in hand in case it has to be recut. I told him that was not going to happen if I ended up buying the rifle. It is a newer model, I believe right before they moved to Wyoming. The funny thing is I have an accu brake sitting in the gunsafe off a 270 WBY.

Weatherby wanted me to send in my rifle to get the trigger tech trigger installed, said it would need fitting all for over 200 bucks. TT had a Black Friday sale and I picked one up for 150 and fit it myself, it is a remarkable upgrade over the trigger on my 1995 Mark V.


Interesting OH. I would think they could tell which brake you needed by your serial #. If they still were not metaphysically certain, but had a hunch, it would be cheaper for Wby to mail you the one they thought worked, even if that led to some back=-and-forth mailing of other brake versions, than mailing the rifle back and forth once.

The stock triggers on my three Mk Vs are really really good to me. They were made I think in 1999 (340 Accumark); early 2000s (.375 Wby DGR); and 2014 (7mm Wby ULW).

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
On the box label It says with accubrake. The "Rep" told me that there might have been differences in the thread and Weatherby prefers to have the rifle in hand in case it has to be recut. I told him that was not going to happen if I ended up buying the rifle. It is a newer model, I believe right before they moved to Wyoming. The funny thing is I have an accu brake sitting in the gunsafe off a 270 WBY.

Weatherby wanted me to send in my rifle to get the trigger tech trigger installed, said it would need fitting all for over 200 bucks. TT had a Black Friday sale and I picked one up for 150 and fit it myself, it is a remarkable upgrade over the trigger on my 1995 Mark V.


Interesting OH. I would think they could tell which brake you needed by your serial #. If they still were not metaphysically certain, but had a hunch, it would be cheaper for Wby to mail you the one they thought worked, even if that led to some back=-and-forth mailing of other brake versions, than mailing the rifle back and forth once.

The stock triggers on my three Mk Vs are really really good to me. They were made I think in 1999 (340 Accumark); early 2000s (.375 Wby DGR); and 2014 (7mm Wby ULW).





The serial number info makes a lot of sense, unfortunately I do not have the rifle in hand with the serial number Yet. I have had no problems getting the factory triggers adjusted to my likes. I thought I would try the TT Special and it does feel better IMHO.

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Just picked up my new baby, who now weighs in at 10lbs-15oz.

Installed the base and rings and 4.5-27X-50mm Bushnell Forge FFP MOA reticle scope.

I have 8 full boxes total of four different types of ammo. Gonna wait until tomorrow to take it to the range.

The trigger, just like on my other Accumark, is really crisp, and I wouldn’t want it any lighter.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Do you think I went a little overkill on the rings?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Do you guys level your scopes like this?:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


I gotta boresight it, but I can’t do it right now because the best place in the house to do that is in a room where my fiancé currently is doing a work video conference with clients. It would be kinda funny to have me boresighting my rifle in the background, but I think I’ll just be patient for a while.


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I think the scope's guts will let go before the rings do grin

In terms of mounting level, I don't trust the short bubble levels. On a rifle with a 1913 rail, I square the ele. turret to the rail, then test for reticle cant and proper tracking.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
I think the scope's guts will let go before the rings do grin

In terms of mounting level, I don't trust the short bubble levels. On a rifle with a 1913 rail, I square the ele. turret to the rail, then test for reticle cant and proper tracking.


I get your point. But you don't think there would be any practical negative impact of being that close, but not close enough for NASA's needs, to level do you?

Note that, for context, I don't dial scopes while hunting or long range shooting. I shoot off the reticles. I don't trust tracking, even though I know some scopes can do it accurately. Once I sight in 1" high at 100 yds, I let my eyes to the math at distance.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
I think the scope's guts will let go before the rings do grin

In terms of mounting level, I don't trust the short bubble levels. On a rifle with a 1913 rail, I square the ele. turret to the rail, then test for reticle cant and proper tracking.


I get your point. But you don't think there would be any practical negative impact of being that close, but not close enough for NASA's needs, to level do you?

Note that, for context, I don't dial scopes while hunting or long range shooting. I shoot off the reticles. I don't trust tracking, even though I know some scopes can do it accurately. Once I sight in 1" high at 100 yds, I let my eyes to the math at distance.

Yeah, it depends on your needs. If you're using your reticle for holdover (which still requires a reticle that is square with the axis between the scope and the bore), and you never shoot beyond 500 yards, then "close" is probably good enough for your needs.

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Okay, I respect your experience, but I think your missing on the practical here. I did the math.

At 700 yds, for each degree out of level for a MOA group, you would be off by 0.611111 inches. So, for each 1- degrees outside of level, it would be 0.6 inches off.

I’m nowhere near 3 degrees off, much less 10 degrees off. But, even if I was 10 degrees off, which I’m not, I would miss the target by 6”. Not gonna matter unless I’m shooting at a silkworm.

Also, there’s always some cant by the hunter, no matter how brilliant he is.

At most, I might be a couple degree off; though I'm not sure that level isn't pretty accurate. So, I may be off by an inch at 700 yards. If getting under a MOA groups, which am, I am getting closer than that.


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All those years sitting in a crane with a ball hanging in front of me did wonders for being able to see plumb in the field.

To setup my rig:

I drop a machinists parallel on the action rails and level the action. In theory the scope should be at 12 o'clock over the bore....so at this point, it's level.

I then sight through the scope at a plumb object (my local water tower) and with the action level and the scope plumb.....go prove that at range.

A well driven 140 is utter hell on elk. Done in a bunch of them myself.


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I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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I got her sighted in, I think.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

It seems to like the 127gr LRXs the best too, but I’m not certain yet. Have to let the barrel cool off overnight, lol, and go back. It shot the 140gr ABs pretty well and better than the 130gr SSs.

If I get much more positive results with the 127s, I will just settle on them. That way, the Accumark and my backup rifle, the Accuguard, both will be shooting the same thing.

A couple of curious things about the chrono results:

I chronoed one 140gr Interlock from the same box as I shot out of the Accuguard. I shot that just to see if I was on paper at 25 yds after bore-sighting. It came in at 3,277 fps, exactly the average out of my Accuguard. Coincidence, but still suggests a similar velocity range out of both

The 127gr LRXs averaged 3,376 fps out of my Accuguard, but 3,472 out of my Accumark. Could that be because of more free-bore in the MkV? But then wouldn’t that be true of the 140gr bullets as well? Any other possible reason for that?

Also, I could not get the Labradar to track the ABs at all. Could that be the shape of the bullet? It could be human error, but nothing I did worked. I would have thought that, if it didn’t track the 140 ABs, it wouldn’t have tracked the 127 LRXs, but it had no problem with the latter.

Sighted in 1 inch high at 100 yds at sea level, its performance should look like this at 10,000 ft and sea level:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

At elevation, it’s only dropping 22” at 500 yds and still is moving at over 2,700 fps. At 700 yds, it still is moving above 2,400 fps.

Now, I just need to shoot them a bit more to make sure I’m dialed in and see if I can find an elk in Colorado in October that will let me put the crosshairs on him.


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FWIW..to make sure the action is level just remove the bolt. The flat area where the shroud used to reside is a perfect leveling spot.

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
FWIW..to make sure the action is level just remove the bolt. The flat area where the shroud used to reside is a perfect leveling spot.


Makes sense. Thanks.

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Be sure to waive those ballistic charts at the game you are hunting. They will just roll over and capitulate.



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Just nice to know where the bullet will be at a certain distance.

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Those 127's look great in both guns. If it's available it's been shooting well enough I'd wanna stock up on it!

No idea why the difference in speed. I'd bet they were both chambered with the same reamer or at least the same copy of it. Probably take a bit more shooting but I'd suspect they will fall in line with one another.


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Looks like the 127s are the right match for your gun(s.) difference in velocity could be number of rounds down the barrel, as barrels tend to speed up as they’re smoothed by firing. Could just be a rougher barrel, as I believe that the free bore would be the same if built to Weatherby spec. But that’s just speculation on my part.


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The hammer forged barrel of the Accugard might be a little over/under the bore of the Mk V and with the softer(?) Interlocks the bore variation may have made no difference. I was under the impression that Weatherby receives barreled actions from Howa for the ‘Guards and if so, may not have been chambered by the same reamers. Just a guess. That variation in MV could be that one doesn’t like the LRX as well. Unless you shot one string, shot the other, then repeated in the same session, your chronograph could be the difference? Happy Trails


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Thanks for the helpful comments guys. I went back to the range on Saturday, and the 140gr Accubonds are making me interested in them. My last six shots with them was under an inch. And I called one flyer, and if I discount that one (I know that's frowned upon), the other five were under 3/4 inch. I'm going to go back this week and hopefully make a final decision between the AB and LRX. The only thing about the ABs that bother me is that my Labradar can't see them, and I don't know how fast they're going. So, I could either (1) assume they're going the same speed as the Wby-loaded 140gr Interlocks; or (2) temporarily borrow, and have my brother mail me, the MagnetoSpeed I gave him when I got the Labradar.

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Also, on the velocity issue, during that previous session, I was chronoing the 127s on a warm barrel, and I noticed that the chronoed velocities for the 127s were gradually increasing as the barrel got hotter. I posted a thread about that here:
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...-velocity-and-barrel-temps#Post15778406. Apparently, that can make a difference.

So, during my last session, I chronoed the 127s on a cold barrel and got an average of 3,420 fps—about 50 fps slower, but still about 50 fps faster than the VG shot them.

I chronoed some more 140gr Interlocks and came out with an average of 3,348 fps, which is higher than before, but, again, that might be because the barrel was fairly warm.

The Sciroccos came out at 3,486 fps.

So, both the 130s and 140s are leaving the MkV at about 70-80 fps faster than they are leaving the VG.

So, I think there’s something different between the two, but I don’t know what it is—not that it matters, I suppose.

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Hawk....Brian Litz came up with a G1 BC of .503 for the 127 LRX


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Interesting Fotis. It's a bit strange that Barnes would understate their B.C.s (they say 0.468).

Did Litz chrono them at different distances to compute that, if you know?

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Also, on the velocity issue, during that previous session, I was chronoing the 127s on a warm barrel, and I noticed that the chronoed velocities for the 127s were gradually increasing as the barrel got hotter. I posted a thread about that here:
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...-velocity-and-barrel-temps#Post15778406. Apparently, that can make a difference.

So, during my last session, I chronoed the 127s on a cold barrel and got an average of 3,420 fps—about 50 fps slower, but still about 50 fps faster than the VG shot them.

I chronoed some more 140gr Interlocks and came out with an average of 3,348 fps, which is higher than before, but, again, that might be because the barrel was fairly warm.

The Sciroccos came out at 3,486 fps.

So, both the 130s and 140s are leaving the MkV at about 70-80 fps faster than they are leaving the VG.

So, I think there’s something different between the two, but I don’t know what it is—not that it matters, I suppose.



I’d guess when they’re scooting that fast a bit of difference won’t matter much as long as they’re consistent and it sounds like the AB and LRX are working well.

Be nice to try them at distance to really put a validation on them for accuracy too.


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Thanks again Fotis. This is interesting. I went back and looked at some data on my Labradar, and Litz's finding is consistent with what I’m seeing. I know this isn’t they way to do it, but just to see what it’s doing over the first hundred yards, my data is fairly consistent with what Litz came up with.

I went to the ballistics calculator and entered all of the correct conditions. My Labradar says that one 127 LRX was launched at 3,509 fps and was moving at 3,294 fps at 100 yds. Reverse engineering that one leads to a B.C. of 0.496.

One coming out at 3,450 fps was moving at 3,239 at 100 yds. That also yields a B.C. of 0.496.

One coming out at 3,438 fps was moving at 3,281 at 75 yds. That yields a B.C. of 0.502.

One coming out at 3,469 fps was moving at 3,311 at 75 yds. That yields a B.C. of 0.502.

That’s an average B.C. of 0.499

I’m certain that Litz’s methodology and equipment are far superior to what I just did with what I have. But my results are relatively consistent with (only 0.04 lower than) Litz’s 0.503, and are 0.31 higher than what Barnes publishes (0.468).

Again, I’m not saying that my methodology is worth squat by only going out 75-100yds, but it is fairly consistent with what Litz found.

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Originally Posted by beretzs
I’d guess when they’re scooting that fast a bit of difference won’t matter much as long as they’re consistent and it sounds like the AB and LRX are working well.

Be nice to try them at distance to really put a validation on them for accuracy too.


Agreed Beretzs. I will head out to my property in Colorado after I get settled in to my new job I started two weeks ago (I can work remotely). I can shoot out to at least 600 yards there with a decent backstop.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

It's about a 15% / 8.5 deg. slope, but I can factor that in.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Originally Posted by beretzs
I’d guess when they’re scooting that fast a bit of difference won’t matter much as long as they’re consistent and it sounds like the AB and LRX are working well.

Be nice to try them at distance to really put a validation on them for accuracy too.


Agreed Beretzs. I will head out to my property in Colorado after I get settled in to my new job I started two weeks ago (I can work remotely). I can shoot out to at least 600 yards there with a decent backstop.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

It's about a 15% / 8.5 deg. slope, but I can factor that in.

Looks nice. What elevation and what general area?

DF

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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer

Looks nice. What elevation and what general area?

DF


Thanks. I got it in a fire sale in 2015. Park County. 9,700 ft - 10,100 ft.

It's got a "cabin" in the interior:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Some nice views:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Kitty cat:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Elk in the summer:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Elk in the winter:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Elk in April:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I have a functioning water well near where the Jeep is. Gonna build right there in the next year. Gonna be fun. With my new job, I can work from anywhere. So, I plan to move there around May 2022.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]




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Standing on that rock, looking at big bucks bedded down below, completely unaware I'm there.

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Dear or elk in February. Couldn't tell; didn't have my binos. About 600 yds from the top of that rock. The cabin is about 150 yds on the other side of the rock from the animals. Hence, one reason for my interest in the 6.5-300.

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Wow.

You done good. Flatlanders could get jealous.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk


Elk in the winter:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Elk in April:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]




Am I not reading/seeing your "elk in the winter" caption correctly? You do realize those are rabbit tracks leading from the shed right, or am I missing something?

The "Elk in April" tracks looks more like two smaller tracks right next to each other, and not elk.
It may just be the picture as I can't tell what critter's feet they are from, but unless the hooves are really splayed out and uneven, it isn't an elk track.


I may be in total left field here, but am just not getting those two statements.



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Rabbit tracks? WTF?


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Big wabbit.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk

Big wabbit.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

With wabbits like that, one can see why Elkhunternm uses a .460 Wby.

grin

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Pretty sure this is the picture/caption Tinman was referring to...

Originally Posted by MarineHawk

Elk in the winter:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Yeah, I didn't really look at the pic before I posted it. That's a bunny.

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Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Yeah, I didn't really look at the pic before I posted it. That's a bunny.

You got big enough wabbit gun, or do we need to get elk up there to take care of business?

grin

DF

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