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We bought 3 pillars some years ago and got cedar and just put some sealer type of stuff on every few years.

It is on the south side of the house and gets sun all the time.

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I can mill you beams cheaper than that. Pick up is in Idaho. We ju had a big wind storm come through. I am cutting trees up tomorrow and then will mill into beams/posts. Those are crazy prices for fir and pine.

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Last edited by sierrabravo45; 01/15/21.
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bingo


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The "easy button" would be steel posts wrapped with what ever flavor of wood you prefer. Not sure where you are located. However, based on the link above, assuming east of Mississippi. Woods I would consider for your project:

1) White Oak - By far the strongest, most weather resistant of the hard woods in the eastern U.S. "Closed cell", so will not soak up or transmit water. Think oak staves in bourbon barrels. Think sill plates in covered bridges with continuous ground ground contact for decades. Not cheap, but nothing better in the eastern U.S. I would bet that you could find a custom sawyer within half a day travel distance who could source and saw out white oak timbers to your spec for significantly less than the prices noted above. ForestryForum DOT Com has a list of custom sawyers across the U.S. that might be a starting point.

2) Cedar - Need to differentiate between Eastern Red Cedar and Western Red Cedar - I am only familiar with the Eastern variety. The red heartwood is very rot-resistant. And very pretty. Might be difficult to source the size pieces you are spec'ing. But not impossible. Richard Newton at CedarUSA DOT com in Marengo, IN could provide some insight on availability and pricing.

3) Sacrilege to some on here, but Black Walnut - Strong. Nearly as rot-resistant as White Oak. Was used as a substitute for white oak in covered bridges when white oak was not available. And contrary to popular belief, not every walnut log is a $1,000 veneer log. The scruffy walnut logs that I sawed into trailer decking for my lawn mower trailer have lasted 11 summers so far, versus the original treated pine lumber that had to be replaced after 5 summers.

4) Cypress - No personal experience. However, my understanding, it is frequently used in Southern U.S. for outdoor projects. Should not be a problem to find the size pieces that you are looking for.

Sorry for the long winded post. Regardless of your wood choice, Good Luck with your project !



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Good luck trapping H5f.


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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Black walnut made a nice summerbeam for my new log cabin.

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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Black walnut made a nice summerbeam for my new log cabin.


Would love to see more of that place!

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Cedar is never the wrong choice. It’s beautiful and long lasting.


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Cutting the summerbeam. Got black walnut all over the place.



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View from the loft.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The house is finished.

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Originally Posted by sierrabravo45
I can mill you beams cheaper than that. Pick up is in Idaho. We ju had a big wind storm come through. I am cutting trees up tomorrow and then will mill into beams/posts. Those are crazy prices for fir and pine.

Strength and density Doug fir
Source directly from someone that will mill directly for you - best quality and cost
Surface applied rather than pressure treating weatherization is adequate for other than ground contact as the natural tannins in cedar
Both still require maintenance even if a weathered appearance desired

Douglas fir is not actually a fir tree but like cedar a member of the pine family😀

Last edited by moose95; 01/16/21.

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Originally Posted by sierrabravo45
I can mill you beams cheaper than that. Pick up is in Idaho. We ju had a big wind storm come through. I am cutting trees up tomorrow and then will mill into beams/posts. Those are crazy prices for fir and pine.


What mill are you using?


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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Cutting the summerbeam. Got black walnut all over the place.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
View from the loft.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The house is finished.


Keep them coming... that is a really nice place. Show us around a bit. smile.

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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Here I am cutting a dovetail notch in a white pine log.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
My helper Adam cleans up a dovetail notch with the slick.

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Originally Posted by Orion2000
2) Cedar - Need to differentiate between Eastern Red Cedar and Western Red Cedar - I am only familiar with the Eastern variety. The red heartwood is very rot-resistant. And very pretty. Might be difficult to source the size pieces you are spec'ing. But not impossible. Richard Newton at CedarUSA DOT com in Marengo, IN could provide some insight on availability and pricing.
He's talking Western. You'd have an awful time finding Eastern in a all-heart 10"x10" and even worse in a 12"x12"


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White cedar siding on our Ontario place. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Originally Posted by sierrabravo45
I can mill you beams cheaper than that. Pick up is in Idaho. We ju had a big wind storm come through. I am cutting trees up tomorrow and then will mill into beams/posts. Those are crazy prices for fir and pine.


IF you have blow down available do you have any Cedar logs 10 to 12 `` DIA, the length he needs , ,no mill work needed. his gables can be board and batten cedar for continuity.


norm


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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Here I am cutting a dovetail notch in a white pine log.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
My helper Adam cleans up a dovetail notch with the slick.




simon, It is so interesting to see you guys in NC work with wood. We just can't use it much down here in FL. The rot process and sun damage is so fast. Not to mention, termites and such.

Please share more pics.


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