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Gents ,
Has anyone ever had a No1 rebarreled by Ruger ? I'm wondering if the factory would do it , in the same caliber .243 , and what they charge
. I finally got 2 extended rings from Ruger and got a VX3 3.5X10X40 CDS mounted , it was a problem getting eye relief and I had to use those rings . Now I've read so much about No1s from 1978 with red recoil pads being so inaccurate that before I even shoot it I'm worried about having to rebarrel it !! I'll have to wait until I get to the range ..
Thank you in advance for your time and help .
Soup

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Shoot it for petes sake
Try it off a bipod and without. Might mess w screw torque also.
I had a .243 B from that era that shot a ragged hole w handloads.

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Shoot it. There's no guarantee a rebarreled #1 will shoot any better than what you've got.

I don't think Ruger will rebarrel unless it's a warranty issue. Call Ruger and ask, let us know what they say.

Good luck.


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I once owned a 1-B in .338 Win Mag that had a land missing in the rifling in the last 12 in. of barrel. Also had a 'Bubbaed" fore stock. I found out the dealer price of a new fore-end was (I think) 77.00 at the time. I wrote a cover letter and included a Cashier's check for that amount) and had my dealer send it back. I asked for a Alexander Henry fore-end but didn't get it.

They did, however, rebarrel said rifle with a new barrel and also replaced both fore-end and butt-stock. (With nicer figured wood than I had...) No charge for rebarreling or new buttstock. But I am told that they will NOT alter the configuration or change the chambering from the original. (Unless you are Ken Waters...Which they did it for him...) Also if you have any after-market parts installed, they will remove them and NOT return them, and your rifle will be returned to being all original. My rifle had had a front sight installed by the previous owner and it came back without. (Which I didn't care, because I don't like sights installed on my rifles, anyway.)

This all occured a number of years ago, when the Ruger family still were involved with the running of the company. Hope this helps... GH


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One of my most accurate rifles is a red pad 1B that was originally chambered in 243 Win. I had the chamber recut to 243 AI, still using the factory barrel. The biggest obstacle in either rebarreling or rechambering was the quarter rib. It took a little extra effort on the smith’s part but everything turned out great. I’d shoot the rifle as is and cross that bridge when you get there. Chances are it will shoot just fine.

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Thank you all for your information . This rifle I'm told is a 1A . It has a 22" barrel and a AH forend .
Soup

Last edited by Soup; 01/13/21.
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I would encourage you to shoot it and if you're using factory ammo to use try several different bullet weights/brands. Number 1s can be picky. Also the barrel on a 1A will heat up pretty quickly and when that happens they will sometimes start to vertically string. I usually shoot two and then let the rifle set for 15 minutes before I shoot the next one. Take several rifles along and rotate. Just my 2 cents.

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I had a Red Pad 1A in 30-06 that I stupidly sold... It would consistently shoot everything into one inch or just minus. If I had a scope that I thought had issues I would put it on this 1A to check it.

Shoot it, You might be surprised.

The 1A (in my opinion) is the nicest configuration that Ruger made.

Jerry


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I have 4 Ruger #1`s that i have rebarreled 2- 257 Weatherby Mag.s,1- 220 Swift ,1 - 300 Win. Mag ,all shoot very good ,all have Brux barrels and rebarreled by a very good machinist . 3 were brand new Ruger #1`s that i had never shot, i just wanted different cartridges and glad i did change them with a more accurate barrel too . i might rebarrel another Ruger #1 too someday ?


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Originally Posted by jerrywoodswalker
I had a Red Pad 1A in 30-06 that I stupidly sold... It would consistently shoot everything into one inch or just minus. If I had a scope that I thought had issues I would put it on this 1A to check it.

Shoot it, You might be surprised.

The 1A (in my opinion) is the nicest configuration that Ruger made.

Jerry

I think Jerry is spot-on. My experience with several 1As tracks with his.

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Originally Posted by Craigster
Shoot it. There's no guarantee a rebarreled #1 will shoot any better than what you've got.

I don't think Ruger will rebarrel unless it's a warranty issue. Call Ruger and ask, let us know what they say.

Good luck.


Yes they will

https://ruger.com/service/partsService.html

POLISH AND REBLUE Labor charge per firearm (does not include parts and shipping)
Shotguns $130.00
Revolvers and most rifles $130.00
10/22s
(includes refinishing of all metal components) $100.00 (not necessary for re-barreling)
RE-BARREL Labor charge per firearm (does not include parts and shipping)
Shotguns $130.00
No. 1 rifles and 77/22 Hornet $105.00
M77 Mark IIs and Hawkeyes $80.00 (no sights installation available)
Mini-14s and Mini Thirty rifles $80.00
Single-Action Revolvers $80.00
Double-Action Revolvers $80.00
FIT NEW STOCKS Labor charge per firearm (does not include parts and shipping)
Shotguns (20 ga. Prefix "400-" or "410-" not available) $50.00
No. 1 and M77 Mark II Magnums $50.00
M77 Mark IIs and Hawkeyes $35.00
10/22s, 77/22s, and Mini-14s $30.00
Stock Refinishing Not offered as a service
FIT NEW CYLINDERS Charge per cylinder (does not include parts and shipping)
Single and double-actions $50.00



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Soup Offline OP
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I shot it . There's nothing wrong with the barrel !
Soup

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No need to send it to Ruger... any gunsmith can rebarrel it... I have rebarrel many No.1's, including my No.1 RSI
358 Win.

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Provided the gunsmith has a mill they can do one... They have some weird Tenon cuts that allow the ejector arm to move over and grab the rim, so it’s not exactly like a model 70 extractor tenon cut, plus there is a slight feed cut.

Look for yourself, that slot on the left side is for the extractor arm that comes from the bottom left side of the action.

[Linked Image]


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