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I recently acquired a 1950s vintage Rem 760 chambered in .300 Savage. Rifle's in very good condition for its age, but I would like to disassemble the rifle for a thorough cleaning and lube. I suspect it's been many years since the corncob forend was removed, if ever. There is no screw at the end for removal. There is a drift pin near the very end of the magazine tube and through-and-through holes in the mag tube just ahead of the forend when the action is open.

Could someone educate as to how I remove the forend and mag tube? The bolt/trigger group removal I can handle. Do I remove that drift pin? If so, then what?

Thanks. Dave

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The drift pin holds the end cap on. A wrench was made with an alignment pin that would insert into the hole towards the bottom of the tube and had support “wings” to loosen the tube. A drift can be used in place of the wrench taking care not to bugger the holes or kink the tube if it’s stubborn. A good idea to put some penetrating oil around the bottom of the tube and heat gently with a propane torch if it doesn’t want to come loose.

Once that tube is unscrewed the barrel will slide off and can be rotated 90 degrees and lifted free of the action bars. Then the bolt and action bars slide out the front of the receiver.

Last edited by TheKid; 02/21/21.
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Originally Posted by TheKid
The drift pin holds the end cap on. A wrench was made with an alignment pin that would insert into the hole towards the bottom of the tube and had support “wings” to loosen the tube. A drift can be used in place of the wrench taking care not to bugger the holes or kink the tube if it’s stubborn. A good idea to put some penetrating oil around the bottom of the tube and heat gently with a propane torch if it doesn’t want to come loose.

Once that tube is unscrewed the barrel will slide off and can be rotated 90 degrees and lifted free of the action bars. Then the bolt and action bars slide out the front of the receiver.
That.

Use the bold area technique, right at the tube's base - if this is the first time it's to be removed...

Last edited by Redneck; 02/22/21.

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Not necessary to disassemble the gun to clean and lube. You’ll most likely be drifting pins and turning screws that haven’t been touched in 70 years. Just wipe it down, run a lightly oiled patch thru the barrel, lightly clean the wood and you’ll be good to go.


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Originally Posted by Poconojack

Not necessary to disassemble the gun to clean and lube. You’ll most likely be drifting pins and turning screws that haven’t been touched in 70 years. Just wipe it down, run a lightly oiled patch thru the barrel, lightly clean the wood and you’ll be good to go.
Overall, yes - BUT, to get at that O-ring in the tube to replace (they get dry from no lube and either crack, break up or jam up the action a bit) you gotta remove stuff..


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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by Poconojack

Not necessary to disassemble the gun to clean and lube. You’ll most likely be drifting pins and turning screws that haven’t been touched in 70 years. Just wipe it down, run a lightly oiled patch thru the barrel, lightly clean the wood and you’ll be good to go.
Overall, yes - BUT, to get at that O-ring in the tube to replace (they get dry from no lube and either crack, break up or jam up the action a bit) you gotta remove stuff..

Necessary to really clean the chamber if it’s got old oil or rust in it too.

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Originally Posted by TheKid
Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by Poconojack

Not necessary to disassemble the gun to clean and lube. You’ll most likely be drifting pins and turning screws that haven’t been touched in 70 years. Just wipe it down, run a lightly oiled patch thru the barrel, lightly clean the wood and you’ll be good to go.
Overall, yes - BUT, to get at that O-ring in the tube to replace (they get dry from no lube and either crack, break up or jam up the action a bit) you gotta remove stuff..

Necessary to really clean the chamber if it’s got old oil or rust in it too.
Absolutely....


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The action isn't nearly as smooth as I would expect, particularly as the bolt closes. I can see a fair amount of debris around the lugs but I can't get to it with removing stuff.

Where's the O-ring that was mentioned? Does it seat the magazine tube to the receiver?

Thanks everyone for your input.

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drop the trigger group and check for gunk in the action bar grooves.


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Originally Posted by Davelefty
The action isn't nearly as smooth as I would expect, particularly as the bolt closes. I can see a fair amount of debris around the lugs but I can't get to it with removing stuff.

Where's the O-ring that was mentioned? Does it seat the magazine tube to the receiver?

Thanks everyone for your input.

No, the O-ring is what keeps the action quiet.. When it's gone, the fore-end assembly will 'rattle'. If it's just out of position, the action will be stiff to operate. Only way to get at it is to remove that action tube..

Last edited by Redneck; 02/23/21.

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Originally Posted by Davelefty
The action isn't nearly as smooth as I would expect, particularly as the bolt closes. I can see a fair amount of debris around the lugs but I can't get to it with removing stuff.

Where's the O-ring that was mentioned? Does it seat the magazine tube to the receiver?

Thanks everyone for your input.



Have you cycled another M760 to compare to your gun? I’ve owned three and and I’d never describe the actions as smooth. IMO the operation is pretty violent, especially as the bolt closes.



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