Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Solderstick: good or bad?

I haven't tried these yet. They always look great in the ads but have any of you used them in real life? They're kind of pricey compared to crimp connectors but if their claims hold up, they'd sure be easy to use..

Do not know about that, RC.

I do like and use many of the heat shrink butt splices, but never had one that self solders.

Another automotive product I love, seeing as I am usually driving a rig closing in on 30 years old. I use solder pellets from NAPA to replace battery cable ends. Just cut off the original end behind any corrosion. Put a solder pellet inside a terminal lug. Insert clean bare copper cable. Then heat with a propane torch until the pellet melts.

I have not had one fail yet repaired in this manner. Then I use a battery post to marine adapter on the battery. From that point on, all it takes is a quick turn of a couple wing nuts to release a battery.

This conversion is especially desirable on old Chevys with crappy side connectors.

Used them for many years at work/home and they work great. Much easier than twisting wire, soldering and then taping a splice. I never seem to have the size of heat shrink tubing I need. The heat guns we used at work had a heat shield that wrapped all the way around the splice to contain the heat and make the solder melt faster.

Solderstick is just one brand and they're kind of expensive. Amazon has a bunch of other Chinese brands that are much cheaper.

So far I haven't been able to find out what the voltage rating is on them. Can they be used for 120V or are these just for low voltage? I suspect they're for 12 or 24V only but can't find it in print.

I've used them. They are good if used where there is no wind. They require being heated consistently. I probably use more butt splices on equipment and trailers than on anything else. Most of those repairs are made outside where it can be windy.

I always thought it was better to overlap the wire for a good solder connection..

But it seems a good way to keep the connection dry.

I think twist, solder, then liquid electrical tape would be a better solution..

I've had good luck with "military terminals". I keep them in stock.

http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/c/p/Military-Battery-Terminals-sku-MilTerm001.htm

Thanks Kingston. Never heard of them before today. I don't have a heavy need for connectors, but when I do, those would certainly fit the bill.

Kingston,

That is a good looking product I was unaware of. Even better than the marine terminal conversion I have been using.

A little scared to clic on a Kingston link, but this one is okay.

They work, keep in mind it's low temp solder and low temp solder does not work well in high vibration environments.

When used correctly those should be great. One thing I would do is make sure the finished splice is protected from vibration because the connection may be subject to some embrittlement. I'd also be inclined to put some additional shrink tubing over it to enhance moisture resistance and provide a little more mechanical integrity.

IS,
Have you ever built up a degraded terminal?

I hate to cut away cast-on terminals, especially if you are limited on wire length.
I never thought to build one up with solder...but I have mashed pulled bullets into a shim.

That's good to know. I've thought about getting some.of these. Seems like I use quite a few butt-splices, but they leave a bit to be desired. I was looking at these as a possible improvement.

I don't believe I have ever had a silver-soldered, shrink wrapped splice ever fai l- but then I don't do many, and I don't want to do them twice.

These are military. They were developed by Tyco's military shrink wrap division, Raychem.

I've never used them, but you could always throw a wrap or two of electrical tape around the joint and it would be good to go for higher voltage.

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I imagine that they have several sizes for different wire gauges like most connectors. If the circuit is properly designed with the proper wire for the load it shouldn't be an issue.
But..
How much they heat up will vary on how well they bond..but that low temp solder will become important then.

If you use the vinyl butt splice connectors that have no bell on the ends (Here) and a good quality Shrink tube with Hot glue on the inside you have a mighty fine Waterproof connection.

No, I have not tried to add lead to the terminal. I do not gave the tools to do a job like that.

Growing up on the farm. Having 50 year old tractors around and equipment like hay swathers which only get started six or eight times per year, there are ample opportunities to repair battery cables.

Most commonly used are the terminals which simply clamp to the end of the copper cable. They are okay for temporary repairs, but seldom last beyond several years.

The soldered lugs are far superior.

Meh.

Not a fan.