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While you knowledgeable guys are on such a subject, I have a tiny little wire issue and could use some direction. The pos wire of the 9v battery connector in my range finder has parted from the round ring. There is very little slack - not easy to string the wire out fora fix. I have bared the end of the wire a bit (maybe 3/16 past the insulation), but do not want to mess up the solder job - it is tight and tiny. Suggestions? Thanks for any help.


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Originally Posted by CCCC
While you knowledgeable guys are on such a subject, I have a tiny little wire issue and could use some direction. The pos wire of the 9v battery connector in my range finder has parted from the round ring. There is very little slack - not easy to string the wire out fora fix. I have bared the end of the wire a bit (maybe 3/16 past the insulation), but do not want to mess up the solder job - it is tight and tiny. Suggestions? Thanks for any help.


Last time I had a soldering question I asked RiverRider.


That cat is sharp as hell on that sort of thing.


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I have not used these but just in time to redo the wiring on 3 of my work trailers and 2 boat trailers (bernese mountain dog at 6mo chewed every wire she could find) a small price to pay for such a great guard dog & protective of children and livestock..
Anyway, I will order these and give them a try. Also going to bury the wires in ¼ pvc this time.


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I have not used these but just in time to redo the wiring on 3 of my work trailers and 2 boat trailers (bernese mountain dog at 6mo chewed every wire she could find) a small price to pay for such a great guard dog & protective of children and livestock..
Anyway, I will order these and give them a try. Also going to bury the wires in ¼ pvc this time.
Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Do not know about that, RC.

I do like and use many of the heat shrink butt splices, but never had one that self solders.

Another automotive product I love, seeing as I am usually driving a rig closing in on 30 years old. I use solder pellets from NAPA to replace battery cable ends. Just cut off the original end behind any corrosion. Put a solder pellet inside a terminal lug. Insert clean bare copper cable. Then heat with a propane torch until the pellet melts.

I have not had one fail yet repaired in this manner. Then I use a battery post to marine adapter on the battery. From that point on, all it takes is a quick turn of a couple wing nuts to release a battery.

This conversion is especially desirable on old Chevys with crappy side connectors.

Learn something new every day, thanks Shooter for sharing the info on the pellets. Never heard of them before but after watching the YouTube about it, I'm hooked👍


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Yes they work

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I’d probably cut the 9v connector off, buy a new one with a flying lead, bird cage the two wires, don’t forget the heat shrink, little flux, little solder paste, “Touch-Touch”
As they say and your done. Those leads are usually short so the battery and lead fit into the tight compartment so don’t get stupid on length. There’s a few ways to do it and I haven’t taken the IPC class in a decade so little foggy on the alternatives but that’s how I’d do it. I’ve a Rework station setup so it’s pretty easy.

Want a little more challenge? Get the solder kit out and try replacing a broken trace on a circuit board. Hand solder a Through Hole 100 leg Quad flat pack, no biggie, replace a trace is a few tries at least.

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A lot of guys like the hot air and heated vacuum systems. I couldn’t stand them. Used to have to repair 660 30 micron solar cells. When those had primary and secondary lenses on them and 24 or so where in an array on a tracker AOA was .8 degrees. No solder mask just bare copper. Painful is an understatement.

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Been a long time but overlapped wires at least wire diameter exposed is probably preferred over bird caging. Most of the standards are setup maybe not for strength but so you don’t have a “blind” joint and can check to see if it has the proper fillet or was “interrupted”. The later in Lead/Tin solder usually looks dull under a 4x scope. I had all 3 classes and 3 states memorized by application but I can’t remember a few of my kids birthdays after the accident. Could probably dig out my J-Standard/610 book of someone were interested.

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I started using them, in the military, about 1974 IIRC. Used them for many years and they always worked if I did the prep correctly.


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Done properly, work great

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Here is a link to the Data Sheet for the ones shown:
https://www.nteinc.com/terminals/pdf/Butt.pdf#page=2
They are good to 600 volts. Twenty years ago I worked on aircraft wiring and we used similar ones and they worked great. As someone else noted a heat gun with a curved shield around the end concentrates the heat and helps if it is windy etc.

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Before you buy an assortment, look at what's in it. Most of them are mostly for 24ga wires and almost no 12ga. You might find it's cheaper to buy bags of single colors to avoid buying a bunch of sizes you'll never use.


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Originally Posted by gremcat
I’d probably cut the 9v connector off, buy a new one with a flying lead, bird cage the two wires, don’t forget the heat shrink, little flux, little solder paste, “Touch-Touch”
As they say and your done. Those leads are usually short so the battery and lead fit into the tight compartment so don’t get stupid on length. There’s a few ways to do it and I haven’t taken the IPC class in a decade so little foggy on the alternatives but that’s how I’d do it. I’ve a Rework station setup so it’s pretty easy. - - - -
Thanks for this - I will try to find a new replacement connector (flying lead - I like that) in this tiny burg. If i can't get it done right. River Rider graciously has offered to fix it for me. Can't lose.


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