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Originally Posted by Judman
What’s with the side bolt release?? I mean fuuck, it’s something you you gotta push when/if you clean. Same amount of effort regardless... extractor don’t mean shiit, 805 tuned trigger better than any tikka I’ve ever felt period, and you get a bolt with a shiit plastic shroud... oh and don’t forget the stellar pile o shiit rings, stock and great magazines they come with... tikkas are a real bargain!!! Haha


805 tuned trigger..... what I run also. He does great work. Mine are all under 2lbs.

BP-B2

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So you really gotta struggle to get the bolt out I take it??? Haha god damn I’ve heard it all!! 😂😂

Those fuuckin extractors break all the time too!! I carry a pocket full of em!! 😂😂


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Another rifle I had with a 700 action. I have spoke with Mike at length several times about his builds, the 700 action, etc. He has said numerous time the bolt just pushes the bullet into the barrel chamber. The magic is in the barrel and bedding. he also torques the barrels on at a very high foot pounds.

And yes, TacOps are as good as advertised.


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Last edited by lapua6547; 02/27/21.
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Originally Posted by lapua6547
Factory 700 works fine. 90% of accuracy comes from a properly chambered barrel.

3 Bs

Barrel
Bullet
Bedding

Then fundamentals of Marksmanship and wind reading.



Can't argue with this.... would add trigger to the equation though


Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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Originally Posted by irfubar
Originally Posted by lapua6547
Factory 700 works fine. 90% of accuracy comes from a properly chambered barrel.

3 Bs

Barrel
Bullet
Bedding

Then fundamentals of Marksmanship and wind reading.



Can't argue with this.... would add trigger to the equation though


Agreed on the trigger. A good trigger is a plus.

IC B2

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Tikka triggers are rather skookum.


Screw you! I'm voting for Trump again!

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So are 805’s, but betta.... for a small fee.


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Maybe the “elite Facebook crew that can’t afford to hunt” will chime in... 😂😂😂


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 75,000
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Campfire Oracle
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Originally Posted by Judman
So are 805’s, but betta.... for a small fee.



Sho nuff

True dat

Dawg.....

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I bought a tikka, waaaay before tikkas were cool, 1st gen, 338 win mag. Ran a “4-12leupold”, factory rings blah blah blah. Shot better than most full blown customs here, coyotes, bobcats, every species of deer, both species of elk... just flat ghosted shiit, couldn’t get past the cheap feelin garbage... but it did have side bolt release, and m16 extractor... 😂😂😂


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
IC B3

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That and it shot at least 100fps slower than any other 338 with same load 🖕🏿😘


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Campfire Oracle
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Elements of a Good Shooting Position:
a) BONE SUPPORT
1. The weight of the weapon should be supported by bone rather
than muscle because muscle fatigues whereas bones do not.
2. The shooter must establish a strong foundation for his rifle by
utilizing bone support. This will enable the shooter to relax as
much as possible while minimizing the movement of 
the weapon due to muscle tension.
b) MUSCULAR RELAXATION
1. Muscular relaxation helps the shooter hold steady and increase
the accuracy of his aim. Muscular relaxation allows the shooter to
use maximum bone support which creates a 
minimum arc of movement and consistency in resistance to recoil.
2. There is no way the shooter can have muscular relaxation
without bone support. During the shooting process, the muscles
of the body should be relaxed as much as possible. 
Muscles that are tense will cause excessive movement of the rifle,
thereby disturbing the aim. When proper bone support and
muscular relaxation are not applied, the rifle will 
never settle into an aiming point, thereby making it impossible for
the shooter to apply trigger control to deliver a well-aimed shot.
3. Only through PRACTICE and achieving a natural point of aim
will the shooter be able to apply proper muscular relaxation.
c) NATURAL POINT OF AIM

1. The point at which the rifle naturally rests in relation to the
target when the shooter is completely relaxed. 
2. Once the shooter is in position and aimed in on target, the
method for checking NPA is for the shooter to close his eyes, take
a couple of breaths, and relax as much as possible. 
Upon opening his eyes, the scopes crosshairs should be
positioned at the shooters desired aiming point.
3. Since the rifle now becomes an extension of the shooters body,
it is necessary to adjust the position until the rifle rest naturally at
the preferred aiming point on the target.
4. Once the natural point of aim has been determined, the shooter
must hold his position in relation to the target to maintain his
natural point of aim. In all shooting positions the NPA 
can be checked and readjusted periodically.
FACTORS COMMON TO ALL SHOOTING POSITIONS
These factors are common to supported and unsupported
shooting positions. They involve building a SOLID foundation from
which the rifle can be fired. Once the shooter is satisfied with the
stability of a position, it should not change except for minor
variations to accommodate different typed of supports.
a) PLACEMENT OF THE NON-FIRING HAND AND ELBOW.
The exact placement of the non-shooting hand and elbow will
depend on the height of the support used. For a very low prone
position, the non-shooting hand will grasp the rear sling swivel
(rear bag) in a fist or it might lie flat on the deck. The elbow rest
comfortably without strain.

b) RIFLE BUTT IN THE POCKET OF THE SHOULDER.
The shooter places the rifle butt firmly into the pocket of his
shoulder. The proper placement of the butt helps steady the rifle,
prevents CANTING, prevents the rifle butt from slipping in the
shoulder during recoil, and lessens the effect of the recoil.
c) GRIP OF THE SHOOTING HAND.
The shooting hand grips the stock firmly, but not rigidly. A firm
handshake hold. The thumb extends over the small of the stock to
enable the shooter to get a good grip. A proper grip permits the
trigger to be pressed straight back to the rear without disturbing
the aiming process.
d) REAR ELBOW.
The placement of the rear elbow gives balance to the shooters
position. Correctly positioned, the elbow helps form the shoulder
pocket. The exact location of the elbow varies with each position.
e) STOCK WELD.
The stock weld is the point of firm contact between the shooter’s
cheek and the stock. The firm contact between the head and the
rifle enables the head and rifle to recoil as one unit, facilitating
rapid recovery between rounds. The stock weld also enables the
eye to be positioned the same distance behind the eyepiece (eye
relief) of the scope each time the rifle is fired. This guarantees the
same field of view with each sight picture, further assisting in
accurate aiming. 
SUPPORTED POSITION FUNDAMENTALS.
a) Avoid touching any part of the support to the barrel. This will

interrupt the barrels natural vibrations, and can throw the round
off.
b) Cushion the rifle on the support. This will keep the weapon
from sliding around and steady the position. 
c) Do not allow the side of the rifle to rest against the support. The
rifle will recoil away from the support and can throw the round off.
SCOPE SIGHTING TECHNIQUES
a) Scope shadow.
During aiming, the shooter must ensure that there are no
shadows in his field of view. He should see a clear black circle
inside the scope. If the eye is to close, too far away, or off to 
one side or the other, the shadows will appear. This will throw off
shots fired. If a crescent shaped shadow is present, the eye is off
center in relation to the scope. The shadow will 
have the effect of pushing the shot fired in the direction opposite
of the shadow. The shooter must adjust his position until the
shadow disappears.
b) Eye Relief.
Eye relief is defined as the distance the shooters eye must be
positioned from the eyepiece lens for the scope to function
properly. If proper eye relief is not maintained, recoil may 
cause the shooter to receive a blow to the head (scope bite,
magnum eyebrow, etc.). Eye relief must be consistent for every
shot.
c) Sight Picture.
1. Sight picture is the correct placement of the crosshairs on the

target for the desired impact. For a correct sight picture, the point
of intersection of the crosshairs is placed in the 
center of the target mass resulting in a quartered target.
2. THE SHOOTERS ATTENTION SHOULD BE ON THIS
INTERSECTION OF THE CROSSHAIRS AND NOT THE
TARGET. The shooter should focus on the crosshairs without
straining his eyes. 
Intense concentration will eventually cause the image to blur. If
the shooters is having trouble focusing on or seeing the
crosshairs, his scope may need to be refocused.
TRIGGER CONTROL
The ability to move the trigger straight to the rear allowing the
hammer to fall without disturbing the sights. The shooter should
fire the shot exactly when the rifle settles to his aiming point, but it
should be a subconscious effort not to disturb the crosshairs. This
way, if the shooter can move the trigger without thinking about it
(subconsciously), he can 
concentrate on the crosshairs and getting his round on target.
2 TYPES OF TRIGGER CONTROL
a) Uninterrupted. 
This is the preferred method. Once pressure is applied, firing of
the shot is completed. The shooter is committed to an unchanging
rate of pressure, no speeding up, slowing down or 
stopping.
b) Interrupted.
This method of control is used in when the rifle will not settle into

position, forcing the shooter to fire the shot when the target
comes into his aiming point. Also called "timing you 
shot". The shooter takes up initial pressure and begins normal
trigger control. He then holds his position until he focuses on his
crosshairs. He then moves the trigger until the shot 
breaks. The shooter should not force his rifle by steering it into his
aiming point. He should let the rifle move naturally toward and
away from the target. If the rifle is moving 
towards the target, the shooter continuously applies trigger
pressure. If the rifle is moving away from the target, the shooter
holds his position until the rifle starts drifting back 
toward his aiming point. He then applies pressure to the trigger. If
the shot breaks as the crosshairs are moving towards his aiming
point, the shot will normally be inside his call.
FINGER PLACEMENT ON THE TRIGGER.
Finger placement on the trigger is correct when it allows the
trigger to be pressed straight to the rear without disturbing the
crosshairs. This will vary greatly from shooter to shooter and
depends a great deal on the size of the shooters hand and his
grip.
Errors in Trigger Control
a) Flinching. The shooters reaction to the anticipation of recoil of
the exploding round.
b) Bucking. An attempt by the shooter to take up the recoil just
before the rifle fires, by tensing up his shoulder muscles and
moving his shoulder forward.
c. Jerking. An attempt by the shooter to make the rifle fire at a
certain time by rapidly applying pressure on the trigger and
disturbing the alignment of the rifle.

FOLLOW-THROUGH
The continuous application of the fundamentals of marksmanship
after the shot has been fired. The shooter should not shift his
position, move his head, or let the muzzle of the rifle drop until a
few seconds after the rifle has been fired. Follow-through ensures
that there is no undo movement of the rifle until after the shot has
been fired. This will also enable the shooter to observe the strive
of the round in relation to his aiming point, enabling him, if
necessary, to adjust his aiming point and fire a second round.
BREATH CONTROL
a) Natural Respiratory Pause.
The point where the shooter is completely relaxed in his
respiratory cycle. The point where the shooter takes a breath and
exhales. This is a shooters NRP. Normally last just seconds
during normal breathing but can be extended more for some
shooters. This is the point at which you want to fire your shot. This
pause should last as long as the shooter feels comfortable with it.
It depends on the physical condition and the lung capacity of the
individual. Obviously, holding your breath longer that what is
comfortable will cause a lack of oxygen that can deteriorate vision
and affect the shooters ability to focus on the sights.
Techniques for Natural Respiratory Pause.
a) Normal Breathing
The shooter breathes normally, and as he approaches taking the
shot, he pauses, gets his point of aim, applies trigger pressure,
and takes his shot. It is easier to obtain a good sight picture when
breathing stops because the movement in the shooter’s chest,

abdomen, and shoulder stops. This entire shot process takes
place during the shooters Natural Respiratory Pause.
b) Decreased Breathing.
As the shooter approaches his shot, he applies his initial trigger
pressure and decreases his breathing. He starts getting his
aiming point as his breathing decreases to a pause. He ca
achieve his proper aiming point during shallow breathing because
he is not moving as much. He then pauses, obtains a good sight
picture, and applies continual pressure to the trigger until the shot
breaks.
c) Cardiopulmonary Pause.
As the heart beat is transmitted through the body, it causes a
corresponding movement to his rifle. This is particularly apparent
in an unsupported shooting position and affects shooting at long
ranges. The heart beat is noticeable by the vertical movement of
the crosshairs in the scope. To shoot effectively, the shooter
should strive to fire the rifle so the trigger breaks at the lull of the
heart beat for each shot.

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The academic debate between near wind and far wind is trumped
by the unique realities of wind pattern to each specific range. The
best policy for shooting in the wind is flexibility and critical
assessment of the features unique to each range.
Wind does not blow on the side of the bullet to cause deflection.
Instead, the bullet weather vanes into the oncoming airflow. A
crosswind will make the bullet fly at a small angle to the line of
sight. The aerodynamic drag applied to the bullet acts directly
back along the bullet axis, which effectively pulls it away from the
line of sight.
Wind gradient is when the wind velocity increases with increased
height above the ground. It can be difficult to judge the wind
speed high above the ground when shooting over valleys where
there are no indicators, but you can usually count on higher
velocity winds in such cases.
Cross wind weighting factors can be used to calculate the effects
of multiple winds. The most wind sensitive portion of a bullet’s
trajectory is not always the first segment. If the bullet will go
transonic during its flight, that will dictate where the bullet is most
sensitive.
Aerodynamic jump is a mechanism by which a bullet can have a
vertical deflection when fired into a purely horizontal crosswind
speed. This deflection is a constant angular deflection, roughly
equal to .03 to .04 moa per mph of crosswind speed, and it
depends on the gyroscopic stability of the bullet at the muzzle.
The deflection is down for a left – right crosswind, and up for a
right to left crosswind. These directions are reversed for a left
twist barrel.

Point forward flight means that the nose of the bullet is always
pointed straight into the oncoming air flow like a weather vane.
Now the axis of the bullet is no longer aligned with the line of
sight. Arrows are stabilized with fetching, and bullets are
stabilized with spin, the both point their nose into the oncoming air
flow when they are stable in flight.
For a given range and atmospheric condition, lag time and wind
deflection depend on muzzle velocity and BC.

In general, a headwind will cause a bullet to slowdown faster and
strike the target lower and vice versa for a tail wind.

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Parallax is an error caused by your scope's focus not being
adjusted to match the target distance.
You must adjust the parallax/focus before you can expect precise
bullet placement.
Lower cost scopes may not have parallax adjustments.
These are usually set for 100yds.
Some scopes will have actual range markings on the focus knob,
but most will make you figure it out by eye.
To adjust the parallax, start by focusing the image as you look
through the scope.
Then get the rifle on a solid rest with the reticle on-target.
Now move your eye up and down or left and right WITHOUT
disturbing the rifle's aim.
If you see the reticle moving around on-target, that is a parallax
error you are seeing.
Continue to make small adjustments to the focus until the reticle
does not move on target.
Now you are ready to make a precise shot.
Some scopes may go slightly out of focus when the parallax is set
properly.
This is not desirable, but it's more important to have the reticle
parallax-free than perfect focus.
Go with perfect parallax over focus every time.
On my Nightforces, I usually find that if I find perfect focus, I need
to roll the top of the knob about 1/16" forward to find perfect
parallax.
The more consistent your cheek weld on the stock is, the less
parallax error you will see.

This is one reason that a proper consistent cheek weld is so
important.
A scope with no parallax adjustment will require you to be much
more diligent in your position.
The more finely tuned you get the parallax, the more sloppy your
position can be.
Tracking Test
You should test that your scope tracks properly.
This is also known as a "Box" test.
What you want to do is to go to the range and setup a nice clean
LARGE piece of cardboard at exactly 100yds.
Make sure the cardboard is level left/right.
Setup a single target towards the bottom of the cardboard.
Verify that you are on a proper zero with the gun level left/right
and fire a group on the target.
Mark the shots already on the target so you know which ones
were already on that target.
Adjust your scope left 10moa or 3 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.
Adjust your scope up 15moa or 4 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.
Adjust your scope up another 15moa or 4 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.
Adjust your scope 20moa or 6 mils right.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.
Adjust your scope back down 15moa or 4 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.
Adjust your scope back down another 15moa or 4 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target.

Finally, adjust your scope back to the left 10moa or 3 mils.
Fire a couple rounds at the same target and check to see that
they landed within the original group that you shot.
If your scope is tracking correctly, you should end up with a
rectangle on the target frame that's 20.9" wide and 31.4" tall if you
are shooting a scope with MOA knobs.
If your scope is tracking correctly, you should end up with a
rectangle on the target frame that's 21.6" wide and 28.8" tall if you
are shooting a scope with MIL knobs.
The rectangle should be formed perfectly square and level.
If the rectangle has good square corners, but the whole box is
angled, then your scope is probably not mounted straight.
If the rectangle looks more like a parallelogram, then you have a
scope problem.
If the rectangle does not have square corners, you have a scope
problem.

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Campfire Oracle
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Practice the fundamentals instead of chasing the "Customs"

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Jud, I pull my bolt all the time, and it wont fit in hard case without removing bolt because I run large handles.

Sako extractors have been a standard upgrade by gunsmiths on Remingtons for years.

Who runs factory rings? All my guns run 20 moa rails.... I have 4 tikkas... one in factory stock with vertical handle, one in B&C, one in a McMillan, and one in a chassis. I have no complaints with factory stocks though, same weight as an Edge.

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That’s good.👍

I don’t sell used boots...

I don’t pull a bolt unless accuracy goes to shiit...

I’ve never had a Remington extractor fail me...

I run factory bolt knobs...

I kill more than 99% of members here...

I use loooooow bc bullets...

I use broke Talley lw’s

I use leupolds....


I’m not a member of the Sitka flatbill Cuunt Facebook crew...

I roll how I roll and it works way better than the bitcholas here....

Remington is where it’s at ....

Fuuck all you no killin California faaaaags and raghorn killin cuuunts....


Those who I’ve spoke of that has a problem know where I live....

All you others , fuuck you too....

Lapua6547 is a stud


Brian aka irfubar is a good sumbitch


The rest are a buncha Sitka wearing flatbill cuunts


Hint.....


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Brother Jud,
I have a confession to make..... those carbon fiber barrels are calling my name.... they look so cool.... will they melt with sustained fire? smile


Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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Bro Bri, I’ve lost all faith!!!

Samuel is drinking white claw, you think carbon fiber snouts are cool!!! Wtf!???


Flatbills skinny jeans and Sitka gear sent!!! 😂😂


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 20,824
Campfire Ranger
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Posts: 20,824
Originally Posted by Judman
Bro Bri, I’ve lost all faith!!!

Samuel is drinking white claw, you think carbon fiber snouts are cool!!! Wtf!???


Flatbills skinny jeans and Sitka gear sent!!! 😂😂


Ever since Gruff fed me a white claw I have been having these crazy notions..... maybe I should PM Old Toot for guidance.... I am so confused... lmao


Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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