Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Toyota Tundra 5.7 - Oil Filter/Cap

I'm not a real gear head and prefer bone stock to everything else (if at all possible) but after experiencing a failure of the standard oil filter cap I thought I'd share.

Whilst removing the stock version the tabs on top sheared off and put a pin hole leak in the process:



Outside view:



After a bit of DuckDuckGoing I discovered it's a somewhat common problem and ordered one of these:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A worthy investment IMO:





You do have to swap the innards:



Probably not news to a lot of you but thought I'd share in case others weren't aware.

Now you tell me...200,000 miles ago, I overtightened the plastic pos...and next oil change, tore the hell out of it getting it off of course, all the time the rage building, the voices in the head chanting...kill it, kill it. It still works but looks like an alligator chew toy.

Flintlocks,

I love Toyota but plastic and oil filters is about the dumbest schit I can imagine.

Better late than never I guess...

Couple things, what kind of watch you wear? Please say G-shock. 2nd are those legit marble floors in your house?

The new ones have a bunch of plastic parts. They are a fuggin pos. The Taco's are even worse.

FitBit and yes.

Last question did firenuts and consuela put them in?

I didn't have a problem with the plastic filter housing, but installed the metal one because my buddies were complaining about how difficult the plastic version was to remove on their pre-2014 trucks. On my 2017, I didn't have any trouble with it and makes me wonder if Toyota changed a design detail on the newer blocks.

I also bought the motorcycle wrench, thinking that I would remove the plug and drain the oil through the access door in my skid plate before dropping the housing. In the end, I usually just let the oil fly but did get more oil on the skid plate.

4th point,

Are those two different oil filter wrenches for the same cap?

Not sure what you mean about the motorcycle wrench.

Yeah, two different tools for the same filter housing.

The Motiv "socket" style wrench engages the tabs closer to the engine. That Big Bike Parts wrench fits really tight to the multi-sided end of the filter housing around the drain plug. I call it a motorcycle wrench since it's actually made for motos. The Tundra guys figured it out.

I believe I ordered mine from a moto shop in Florida. I can look for details, if you want.

I can probably find them based on the name.

Thanks though.

Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Add a Fumoto valve and MotivX filter drain tool, and oil changes are fast and tidy.

First thing I did last year when we bought an '11 Lexus GX 460 w/95K miles

Seems my kit even came complete with filter too...$53 from Amazon

Still a PIA to change

here's a good on line store

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofspringfield.com/

A couple years ago we bought a demo Toyota Highlander, 7k miles. It had had an oil change at the dealers. The next time it needed a change, I played hell getting the cap off. The mechanic must have used an impact wrench on it. I finally got it off without damage but I sure didn't screw it down nearly as tight when I put it back on. It's plenty tight now but not excessive.

Ive got the metal one on the shelf ready for the next oil change.

What I want to know is why it comes standard in some cars but the Tundra gets the plastic one.

My local Walmart had the wrench for $5. The cast metal one, not the stamped sheet metal which slips like crazy.

I have a cast metal cup wrench that fits the hex and has slots for the plastic tabs. Changed lots of oil filters on Toyota's for work. Never busted a plastic cap even if I had to get a 1/2" breaker bar on them as they were so tight. Also a hose with adapter that fits the drain plug to empty the filter before removing.

Great tip - thanks. I’ve got one of these on it’s way for my 21.

The original cap on the old 2008 was intact, but pretty beat.

I noticed that the Motiv socket-style filter wrench, which is cast metal, could be installed incorrectly if not paying attention. Definitely want to rotate it around the filter housing until it is fully seated, if using that one. If not, then it won't fully engage the tabs on the housing.

Even though I bought and installed the metal filter housing, I am not 100% convinced that it is better than the original plastic one. In my mind, the metal casting can have internal inclusions/defects from the casting process that would seem to be very difficult to detect or inspect for. My guess is that you'd have a better chance of getting a 100% correct part with the plastic. Obviously the metal one is less likely to deform.

With the older engines, it seems like there was a problem removing the plastic housing. That is what my buddies told me, with their trucks. They said it felt like the plastic was going to break or get rounded edges. Like Flav's. The metal housing solved the high removal torque for them. But like I posted earlier, my engine block and plastic housing didn't have that problem. Basically tighten the housing down until it stopped, for installation. And for removal it never felt seized or stuck.