Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots TC Contender variations

I used to shoot IHMSA at Sturgis until 1985. I sold my contender after that. I had a 256 barrel and a 7mm TCU barrel, maybe a 44 barrel for a short time.

Now I'm looking at contenders again. I understand that there are at least two variations: original and G2, is that right? Will a G2 barrel work on an old frame? How about the other way around? Is the main difference on how the action opens?

Thanks for the schooling.

Barrels are interchangeable, but stocks are not between G1&2. Or so I’ve heard.

That is correct.
As with any Contender bbl, they should interchange, but sometimes you have to play the locking bolt game.

In my limited experience, the older frames and barrels were more picky. Was lucky in that I had 3 frames abd found what barrels worked best per frame, all except one barrel.

Another i had to polish the locking bolts.

The actions open the same.
But on the G2 you can cock it, let the hammer down, and recock.....without having to squeeze the trigger guard for a reset.

There are slight ergonomic differences, which cause me to prefer the originals.

Original Contender can be tricky. Not a beginner’s or kid’s gun. It can get dangerous, cocking then letting the hammer down. Firing pin is now resting on the primer. You have to open the action to reset the hammer block.

But, the trigger is great, maybe better than the G2. Would appreciate opinions on that.

DF

I have and had others but always the original. Mine has a very good trigger but the re-cock feature can be a bit of concern as it is a bit noisy to re-set if game is close. I believe the G2 is supposed to be stronger but I am entirely happy with the G1.

How does the G2 trigger compare with the original. I’ve had or have several originals. Never compared with a G2.

DF

I have owned two of the older Contender frames and currently have a G2. Triggers have been good on all three but my G2 may have the best trigger in my gun safe. It surprises me each time I take it out. Now, let me add, that I bought this frame used so it may not be stock.

The G2 stocks are different. I recently bought a plastic buttstock marked "Contender". When I tried it on my original frame it would not fit. I don't have a G2 frame to try it but it must be the later.

Speaking of triggers, I believe the G1's to be the best. However, I also have 2 G2's. Worked the triggers with Belms kits and they are really good. Not as good as the G1's. The stocks are different. Over the years, there have been several stockmakers making stocks for the G1. Not so much choice for the G2. I'm still looking for an aftermarket stock for my G2.

The "pre" easy open frames seem to be the most finicky. I had a very early one (2nd or 3rd year) that pretty much had to be fit to each individual barrel, otherwise it was very difficult to open and wouldn't trip the interlock to fire.

As far as the triggers go, I don't have a preference. I haven't shot my G2 enough to really compare, but I have it set up as a rifle with a 6.8 SPC barrel.

I went with the G2 version because I'd heard of the cocking/safety concerns on the G1s. But I also wanted a really nice trigger so I sent my frame over to HausofArms and they customize the triggers with Bellm parts and set the pull to whatever you request down to a minimum of 2lbs (I think that was the min.) Liked the setup so well I later bought two more frames directly from them and had them set the triggers to 2lbs as well. Ends up being a very nice crisp trigger which works great for the shooting I do most (longer range varminting with carbine barrels.)

Think most of the G1 (except for the earliest) had a safety on the hammer.
One could engage it and then let the hammer down............just sayin'.
I never do, but then I run 700s without cramming rounds in/out of the chamber to unload a mag and grew up w Old Model Rugers.

Also, one need not break the gun open to reset it. You can keep it closed and just squeeze the trigger guard as if you were going to open it- it need not be opened.
But most folks do the clackety clack w open and close.

You’re tweaking my memory. Seems I sent an early Contender back for a retrofit. What was the issue with the early easy opener that caused problems?

DF

Honestly, I am not sure...but I have to assume its with the frame itself as the barrels all worked fine with "newer" Contenders.

Seems like I remember one thing that was a retro, the hammer/selector mechanism.

It's been so long, I can't remember the details.

This is one variation, a .410 carbine that I put together.

Another is my old rabbit hunting .410. Killed a bunch of swampers with that one. I made a new grip, found the OEM grip uncomfortable. The sharp edges hurt firing 3" shells. The new one is very comfortable. Lawrence holster.

DF

G2 barrels generally don't interchange with the very early frames.

Great thread. Just found an ol Contender in back of one of the safes. Has a 17 HMR bbl on it. Not sure why, and didn't remember where she came from. Soooooo..... total disassembly and inspection (found sear spring had broke). Cleaned it all up, got new springs and found a bbl that I wanted.... a 35 Remington. Lucked up on a pretty good deal with scope already on it. Oh, and cerakoted it MagPul Foliage Green. Now just need to sell the HMR bbl. Anyway, thanks for sharing all the knowledge on these ol' guns. My dad sure did love em.


[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO7A7GdvlCjqHlYKolZ1fZXTYwORB7Q9wrIdWtt[/img]

IIRC there were two groups of 35 rem bbls, maybe differentiated by rifling groove count.

The newer ones supposedly better.

Anybody remember which is which? Im looking for a 35 rem super 14.

This has been my experience as well.

I'd bet it's been worked on. The trigger on my G2 is simply terrible

I'd bet it's been worked on. The trigger on my G2 is simply terrible [/quote]

Does it need a Bellm spring kit? Or do you think it needs some smoothing as well?

Does it need a Bellm spring kit? Or do you think it needs some smoothing as well?[/quote]

I bought a brand new G2 frame recently, not a nice trigger at all, also the hinge pin had play in it............... bought the oversized pin and a spring kit from Bellm....

Removed all the play in the hinge pin and vastly improved the trigger.................