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What to do? I originally posted in the Savage Collectors forum, but this seems more appropriate.
Anyone have a wood doctor to recommend? I'd rather repair this cracked stock than replace it. It would be nice to have it back by Oct. 1st (opening day). (99R-.300 savage) And, for less $'s than a replacement. Your suggestions please!

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Last edited by mpmax; 08/04/07.
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Can you open the crack a bit by flexing the stock? How deep does the crack go with the action removed?

If it is a deep crack, more than 1/2" down from the surface drill out from the inside of the stock from the back of the action towards the wrist and use a threaded screw with acraglas or similiar viscosity epoxy to repair it. If it is not a deep crack get is as open as possible and allow the araglas to penetrate as deep as possible and allow to cure. Wipe an excess acraglas before it sets and you should have a repaired crack that is almost invisible with no refinishing required.


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Heat it lightly with a heat gun not to hot to hurt finish. Put a little thinned epoxy in crack. Clamp crack and use a vapor barrior such as saran wrap over crack. As stock cools it will suck epoxy into crack. Leave it clamped for a few days and it should be fine.


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Originally Posted by varmintsinc
Can you open the crack a bit by flexing the stock? How deep does the crack go with the action removed?

If it is a deep crack, more than 1/2" down from the surface drill out from the inside of the stock from the back of the action towards the wrist and use a threaded screw with acraglas or similiar viscosity epoxy to repair it. If it is not a deep crack get is as open as possible and allow the araglas to penetrate as deep as possible and allow to cure. Wipe an excess acraglas before it sets and you should have a repaired crack that is almost invisible with no refinishing required.


+1 the soft brass screws borwnelles sell are ideal and designed just for this. I've evey used them as crossbolts. you could get 'em delivered in 2 days, 15 min fix, 2days dry.



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I have used .095 and .080 nylon line trimmer line to fix before as well. I used lime green on one stock just for the heck of it. Held for years and I finally replaced the stock with a Mickey. You could see the little green spot on the stock. I think clear is the better way to go. I just rough it up slightly with 240 grit paper, coat it with epoxy and push it through the hole. One dry, trim it flush, finish with a sanding block and buff to taste. Just an idea and works better in some applications than other.


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I despise brass or other metal in a stock repair. I find them useless and a pain when they have to be repaired all over again... Because of differing expansion rates with temperature changes the epoxy to metal joint will fail eventually. Good glass with fibers in it will be stronger and last longer.

Stockbolts are a whole different issue and they have their place.

I would hollow the leading edge of the crack and glue first as KK suggests. (I do not thin my epoxy as the heat will do that for you) Then I would work a gob of fibered epoxy well into the hole.

A tiny amount of Formby's furniture refinisher will melt enough of the original finish to hide the crack line. Just run a dampened rag lengthwise over the crack for a couple minutes and then crosswise for a minute and stop when you see finish moving. Repeat a day or so later and the crack will be gone... Do not try to do too much at once.


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That's an easy one. Pull the stock off. Spread the crack a little. Squirt in some super glue. Wrap the stock tight with some surgical tubing. Leave it for a few minutes and it's stronger than new.

I have total confidence in the super glue, but if you want to use epoxy, the brownell's accraglass is the way to go.

One caveat, If the crack is old and oil/dirt has soaked into the surface you'll need to use one of the above mentioned methods in order to get down to fresh wood. If the crack is new and the wood still fresh and porous, Superglue is the trick.

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Last edited by weagle; 08/06/07.
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Superglue is great stuff... Except under shock loads. It is very brittle.

Point I intended to make and forgot earlier is the importance of making sure the wood is not being wedged apart by the action during recoil because that will guarantee the crack will be back.
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Gorilla Glue, works for me.


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Latest Fine Woodworking magazine has an article about a glue test... WHile it is far from perfect in design it did not support gorilla glue at all. The tests I have made showed the stuff to be awesome, so I am confused by it; But it is worth the read.
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Art,

I was surprised by those test results. Tests did seem fairly objective though.

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Art, I cannot say that I have ever had a metal insert for a stock repair fail. Not ever. Perhaps it is in the application.

I wasn't much surprised at the glue-test results. I have never been much of a fan of gorilla glue myself. Damn messy stuff.

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I have had to repair quite a few failed repairs that used metal rods. I have not found the need to use them personally. The wood is strong enough and the glues stronger yet. Adding another element with potential expansion and adhesion problems does not make sense to me. Were I to use a pin it would be threaded...

I think the biggest problem with cracked stocks, assuming the grain flow is proper, is when the wood moves, usually shrinking, and affects the way recoil is absorbed. Fixing that question is the answer, IMO.
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Cure Rot is thin epoxy, soaks-in deep and easily. It'll seep into cracks that you can barely see by looking close.


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I would have liked to see some plain tension tests and a better joint. Most of the photos show wood failure more than the glue...
art


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Art, it has never given me any problems. When I busted my Merkel, I used a piece of bolt. The first repair w/o the bolt failed. When I bought a well busted Scott double, I did not even hesitate to use some metal the first time. It is still in one piece - it's a 10 bore double, so recoil happens. I also use the same for attaching nose pieces to forearms.

I have never had any problem with a rod coming unglued - but I only hunt in Iowa...;)

I think wood movement is way overblown as a problem. Falling on them, however, is a real issue. Esp. when racing after a running pheasant from time to time.

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Have to agree on the falling issue! But those are obvious and without much head scratching. I seem to get to look at a bunch of cracked stocks where fingers are being pointed and no one wants to say "My bad!"
art


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yeah, those cracks often look like my busted Merkel or a flintlock I dropped (on concrete). Or the one above.

Dropping the flinter was STUPID. The Merkel was just part of the deal - [bleep] happens when pheasant hunting.

I don't know what busted up the Scott, but whatever it was, it did a hell of a number on her.

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Cure Rot is thin epoxy, soaks-in deep and easily. It'll seep into cracks that you can barely see by looking close.


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Weagle
Superglue is great stuff... Except under shock loads. It is very brittle.


Art, I would think that would be the case if you are bonding two non porous surfaces together such as metal to metal, but it seems when you are bonding wood surfaces together that it works great. I've used it to repair a lot of split stocks and never had the joint fail. I would guess that the strength is due to it penetrating the wood fiber as opposed to just a surface adhesion.

Thoughts?

Weagle



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