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I'm searching for brass shot shell load data for 16 gauge using smokeless powder. I'm stocked up on Circle Fly 14 gauge 1/2' Fiber Wads, 14 gauge .135 Nitro Wads and .025 13 gauge over shot cards. Yes, I also have an ample supply of Black Powder. I currently load Black Powder for 12 gauge and 16 gauge with good success. But why not load up some of these brass shells with low pressure loads using smokeless powder? I have many varieties, Red Dot, HS-6, WSF and AutoComp. There is no published data available. Does anyone here have any experience in this regard? It shouldn't be Rocket Science or is it? I'm aware of RST low pressure shells but the delivered price for twc cases is over $400. Seems dumb not to use supplies on hand for some recreational clay busting.


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Don’t see any reason that shotgun load data wouldn’t work with brass shells, but you’ll need a sizing die is my guess.


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Ballistic Products have a manual written by Vandenberg on loading brass shells. Might be useful. It is download able too so you can get it instantly. I ordered the buckshot manual early last month and it took a couple weeks to get. All I have ever loaded in my brass shells is black or substitute.


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Following this, I always wanted to reload Brass shotshells

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Originally Posted by DigitalDan
Don’t see any reason that shotgun load data wouldn’t work with brass shells, but you’ll need a sizing die is my guess.

and a roll crimp.


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Nah, use a little Duco Cement to hold the overshot wad in place. Works like a charm and leaves no residue. Just in case the uninitiated are following, one has to use wads 1-2 gauges larger with brass shells. Mag Tech sells them.

Also, it doesn’t hurt to put a paper strip around the shot. No leading.

Last edited by DigitalDan; 03/13/21.

I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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DD, where were you 30 years ago! i never thought of Duco. i am down to a dozen or so of my 10gauge brass because of working the crimp and resulting splits! never to old to learn i guess.


the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee
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30 years ago? Livin’ in Key Largo and catching too many fish!


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Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Smokeless powder is problematic in those hulls. Smokeless needs more pressure than black powder at the start of ignition to create conditions for a proper burn. Card wads usually don't seal well enough for that. So I searched for a 16 ga plastic gas seal that would work. all are too small. The hull has a larger internal diameter than any 16 ga wad can seal. I have found the Winchester AA 12 ga wads have a base cup that fits perfectly into the 16 ga. mag tech brass hulls. Loaded up some test batches, with just the gas seal portion under normal 14 ga. fibre filler wads but haven't shot them yet.

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The simple answer to the problem of using smokeless in brass hulls is use another type of hull.
The drawn brass Magtech hulls are designed for BP.
Try using lathe turned brass hulls from Rocky Mt. Cartridge Co. Pricier than the Magtechs. They will last probably forever. Smokeless? No problem. Components? No problem, the RMC hulls are true to gauge and use 209 primers.


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Get some from Rocky Mountain Cartridge.
I can vouch for the duco. I shoot brass in 410.

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Would someone please explain what type of glue would be equivalent to Duco? Duco is not sold in Canada as far as I can tell. Is Weldbond similar enough?

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First off you can load smokeless in brass,
You just have to use common sense. Fiber wads will do all that plastic wads will do. If shooting in a gun without screw in chokes it will open the pattern up a bit. You can make the mag tech brass except 209 primers. I use red dot for 16/12 gauge with great results. The sizing die is only needed if your shooting the brass in different size chambers. And the best one is from CH4d and yes they are expensive, but work great.
Water glass was the old way of sealing the overshot card, be warned it’s a pita to get out once dried and fired. I use elmers wood glue. It works fine and will mostly be gone after firing. Really no need to use any more then that.


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