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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Killer wood is actually quite a bit less likely to crack unless laid out poorly. Simple physics and long proven. I bought my first over 40 years ago.


Sound like you read that somewhere. I am speaking from 20 years of stressing shotgun stocks in order to bend them, and repairing stocks cracked in the field.

I love highly figured wood, too, and most of it never cracks. But if you stress both types, the figured wood is much more likely to crack, right along one of those lines of figure.

Go figure! smile

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Have seen the curls crack thru the wrist and where it was headed up to the receiver....and that would be a layout issue.

Straight grain thru the grip is highly unlikely to crack.

Pick your blank with all the smoke and curl you can afford from behind the wrist and it would be rare to fail.


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I shoot/use a first gen 101 top single trap with a 34" barrel (fixed full choke) and a straight comb stock. Have put plenty of rounds through it over the years with no issues other than the occasional miss! Lol! Whether it's 16 yard, yardage/handicap, whatever... it's served me very well.


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Cool!!!! Been ages since I’ve seen a 101 single barrel trap. Brings back some good memories.

Last edited by battue; 03/26/21.

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Hi,
I'm a Winchester 101 guy and have been for many years. The only ones I ever got rid of was an old fixed choke SxS with 26 in barrels that was too whippy for me, and a Diamond grade trap that had a cut off stock. It I still have a 3 barrel skeet set, XTR 20ga, XTR 12 ga, and a Live Bird 12ga. I do have 3. Brownings a Belgium presentation grade1 in 12ga and a Featherlite 2 barrel set in 20 and 28 ga. and a BT 99 Max single barrel. I was obviously a clay bird shooter by my arsenal. Grandfather time has caught up, reflexes and eyesight fading. This thread brought back a lot of shotgun memories.
Have a great day.
Jim

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I have used my WInchester 101 chambered in .410 for pheasant hunting here on the southern Minnesota prairie with excellent success on pheasants using 3" no.7½ chilled shot. Would rather shoot copper plated shot, but, very difficult to find in .410. I works nicely at the skeet club as well. I am always amused as a crowd usually forms when I bring it to shoot skeet or trap. Some guys see it in the gun rack and ask if it is an O/U rifle. Winchester copies of John M. Browning's masterpiece Superposed are not seen in the field as often as they were in my youth, but, then, there are not many Model A Fords on the streets anymore either.

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Originally Posted by battue
This thread got me looking back. I had forgotten there were many variations of the 101. Along with the standard grade, there was a Super Grade, Diamond Grade, Presentation Grade and some others for the European market that we seldom see.

Then there were the drillings in 7x57, .308 and .30-06.

How about this one: The "Winchester Boar"


http://www.gunsinternational.com/gu...gun-inventory-9663-.cfm?gun_id=100825936


They weren't drillings. They were BBFs, and they were an abomination. The combo guns were poorly regulated and were nearly impossible to re-regulate. They looked nice, but they didn't shoot for sour owl schidt. It's one reason they sell for a lot less than properly built European guns, which were factory shot and regulated.

The Japs just lined up everything in the factory to "pretty good" and welded it all together. Proper combo guns can be unsoldered and re-soldered, what takes place several times during building a decent traditional combination gun. Had the Japs used the Valmet barrel joining system they would have built a great BBF.

I love the 101 shotguns and the early "economy" model, the 96. I got my son a 96 20ga 26" I/C & Mod when they first came out, and it's been a great shotgun.


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With a little fiddling, some seemed to have potential....at least good enough to work on BG in a woods setting. However, for sure the old school Krauts would have done better....

At 100, the bottom and top barrels both shot around an inch and two inches apart...I could make it work in the woods on Deer...

https://rayg3.wordpress.com/2009/06/30/winchester-double-rifle-7x57/

Addition: You are correct..they were not drilling’s...


Last edited by battue; 04/26/21.

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Originally Posted by RimfireArtist
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Killer wood is actually quite a bit less likely to crack unless laid out poorly. Simple physics and long proven. I bought my first over 40 years ago.


Sound like you read that somewhere. I am speaking from 20 years of stressing shotgun stocks in order to bend them, and repairing stocks cracked in the field.

I love highly figured wood, too, and most of it never cracks. But if you stress both types, the figured wood is much more likely to crack, right along one of those lines of figure.

Go figure! smile

I missed this until now... I have tested and measured huge numbers of pieces of wood to failure of many species, including lots of different walnut. A few points become obvious. Species is of course huge, but Specific Gravity is the single biggest indicator of strength after that. Figured wood tends to be significantly more dense. Straight, uniform fiddleback is much stronger and stiffer than pure straight grain.

While you may see figured wood break while bending you very likely are putting far more force into bending it. And that is taking the wood places a very tiny percentage of stocks are ever taken.


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Wouldn't mind a touch of cast off on this one, stock is as straight as an arrow. Wouldn't mind an adjustable comb either, but I shoot it good. I'll keep looking, but until I find a replacement stock, I'll just keep shooting it.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by DeanAnderson; 05/16/21.

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