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Well they sure are shooting good in yours! That's one more data point that all rifles (even the same model) are individuals. The .308 has the rep of being about the most unfinicky chambering there is. Mine seems committed to being an outlier.
I reckon we'll need to wait another 10 months to hear how your boys' rifles shoot.

Fun, ain't it?
Rex

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I cut the stock back to 1/8” shy of the filler block. I had purchased a Pachmayr Decelerator 750 B to replace the factory pad. Guess I didn’t need it. Once I cut the stock I figured I would see how the factory pad still fit. Other than removing about a 1/16” of material at the toe and cleaning up the sides, it’s a really nice fit. I haven’t tried sanding it down yet, but I’ll let you all know how it works out.

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I sure do love my (2) M12's. I sold a Blaser R93 to buy them, and I'm glad I did

I wouldn't change a thing with them.

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My lop is now 13 11/16”. It fits me MUCH better now. 14 1/4” lop just seems a little long to me. Especially when hunting and thick clothing and maybe pack straps add to the length.

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Originally Posted by miguel
My lop is now 13 11/16”. It fits me MUCH better now. 14 1/4” lop just seems a little long to me. Especially when hunting and thick clothing and maybe pack straps add to the length.

Miguel, that's great news. So if my math is right, you were able to remove the factory pad, then cut 9/16" off the stock butt, which left the solid section about 1/8" thick. Am I reading you right?

I have considered injecting some fairly thin epoxy in through one of the holes in the filler block (into the empty space behind it) using a great big syringe, then standing the stock vertically with the former holes plugged to let it set, to thicken the solid section if needed, but it sounds like maybe it's not.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rex

P.S. Various issues have kept me from the range to confirm I can get the same kind of groups with hunting bullets as I last got with the SMKs, so I plan to make sure this rifle is going to be a keeper before I do any of this work.

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Originally Posted by TRexF16
Originally Posted by miguel
My lop is now 13 11/16”. It fits me MUCH better now. 14 1/4” lop just seems a little long to me. Especially when hunting and thick clothing and maybe pack straps add to the length.

Miguel, that's great news. So if my math is right, you were able to remove the factory pad, then cut 9/16" off the stock butt, which left the solid section about 1/8" thick. Am I reading you right?

I have considered injecting some fairly thin epoxy in through one of the holes in the filler block (into the empty space behind it) using a great big syringe, then standing the stock vertically with the former holes plugged to let it set, to thicken the solid section if needed, but it sounds like maybe it's not.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rex

P.S. Various issues have kept me from the range to confirm I can get the same kind of groups with hunting bullets as I last got with the SMKs, so I plan to make sure this rifle is going to be a keeper before I do any of this work.

I cut the stock back to 1/8” shy of the filler block, the block that houses the threaded nuts to accept the recoil pad screws. I don’t see why you want to mess around with any epoxy. The filler block is still well secured inside the stock. I think if you were to cut any shorter, like flush with the block, some sort of epoxy adhesive may be needed as the filler block appears to be glued front and back, almost looks like hot glue?

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I think I finally understand what you're saying Miguel. Are you saying that there is a half inch or more of OPEN space directly behind the recoil pad, and then one encounters the filler block? So you did not cut any of the actual filler block at all? And the screws on the pad are long and reach all the way to the block, and the edges of the pad are kind of inset into the empty space?
If I am finally understanding you right it sounds as if shortening the stock is a piece of cake.
Am I smellin' what you're smokin' finally? ;o)

Thanks,
Rex

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I contacted Mauser to even see if it was a possiblity to rebarrel one of these. I was told you cannot as the barrel is heat fitted. With that said, why is it that JP Enterprises has figured out the science of re-barreling a heat fitted barrel but Mauser can't? Just a thought.

For the MSRP Mauser was asking, that's crazy thinking. They're priced right at about $499 since you can't change barrels.

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Rex, maybe try taking the recoil pad off and looking at it yourself.

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Originally Posted by devnull
I contacted Mauser to even see if it was a possiblity to rebarrel one of these. I was told you cannot as the barrel is heat fitted. With that said, why is it that JP Enterprises has figured out the science of re-barreling a heat fitted barrel but Mauser can't? Just a thought.

For the MSRP Mauser was asking, that's crazy thinking. They're priced right at about $499 since you can't change barrels.


It's a much harder barrel than you might be used to. They are made in the blaser factory.

having owned a ton of Blasers I can tell you I have never heard of one shot out. Not saying it can't happen.

IMO it's worth way more than what we bought them for

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Originally Posted by miguel
Rex, maybe try taking the recoil pad off and looking at it yourself.


I sure will - that's good advice.

And having done so I will actually share what I find with the rest of the folks here, so they don't have to pull their own and potentially scar the rubber of the pad, just to find out.

Rex

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Here is what I found. First, don't reach for the #2 Phillips screwdriver as anyone whoever replaced a pad would be inclined to do. The machine screws that hold this pad on use a 3mm Allen wrench to remove. I recommend keeping the screw heads flush to the flat they bear against, by constantly lifting the pad, the whole time you are backing out the screws. That way you don't drag the threaded portion through the slits in the pad, which would possibly scar the pad. The screws are about 5/8" too long as is, and will be about 1" too long if you shorten the butt to the "easy" amount, (which is right at 1/2").
[Linked Image]
What look like little pillars are actually free sliding bushings that carry a raised area surrounding the screw holes under the pad, forward 1/2" to engage the little recesses around the brass inset nuts that receive the screws.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
There is a raised lip on the buttstock that engages a groove that runs around the edge of the butt pad.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
If you slip off the bushings you will see that there is a raised bushing fixed to the underside of the pad, where the bolts come through and they are the same size as the ring on the end of the bushings - these engage the recess around the brass bolt inserts and index the pad, so that raised lip around the edge of the butt should not be required for the pad to sit squarely on the butt.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
A couple notes. The recessed empty space beneath the pad is .550" deep. The raised lip is .050" high, so if the butt is cut back exactly to the flat portion, one could reduce the LOP by .5" (other rifles might not have the exact same dimensions there since the thin, flat portion that houses the brass inserts is just epoxied in.)
If you cut it back that far, you could shorten the bolts by 1.0" and they would still fully engage all the thread in the brass inserts.
[Linked Image]
This would greatly reduce the amount of turns needed on the 3mm Allen key to tighten everything back down, reducing wear on the show face of the pad.
While it would be possible to take a bushed router bit and recut the little raised edge on the butt that engages the slot in the pad, due to the taper at the toe of the stock, the new raised lip would no longer line up correctly with the groove in the pad in the toe section of the stock. My guess is it is best to not try to do this and just regrind the pad flush as required to clean up the new junction to the butt.

I am not going to perform this operation until I am completely certain this rifle will be a keeper, so as to leave it all original. If I decide it is (which I hope I do!!) I will post all the steps here for any who want to do the same.

Cheers,
Rex

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Nice going!

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Great pics, very complete, concise explanation.

Thanks,

Bob

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Bringing this thread back. Anyone found a decent load that produces under an inch? Post your load.

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devnull,
The load I posted on the previous page of this thread is well under MOA, but it has two problems - uses a match bullet, not a hunting bullet, and OAL exceeds magazine length.
So far, the Creedmoor Sports factory 167 Scenar loads that SU35 posted about early in this thread are also consistently under MOA (and fit the magazine), but my sample size is still low on them.
In two days I plan to be back at the range with some loads using Big Game and the 165 NBT, loaded to 2.85", which will function in my M12 mag (that's a .070" jump to the lands).
I'll put up what I find.
I think it was EdM that posted his load earlier in the thread. IIRC it was the 168 SMK with 45/TAC, but don't quote me on that - read the whole thread (or just run through it quickly until you see his picture of the ten shots clustered into a real tight bunch) and you'll find it.

Cheers,
Rex

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Here are my notes from using a basic Hornady 150 SP and IMR 4064. Below are velocities from a 4-shot string for each load. Shots were taken at 700' ASL. None of these loads produce a sub-MOA group. I believe they may have been too hot.


Caliber: 0.308 OAL: 2.173 BTO / 2.757 COAL
Brass: Hornady Powder: IMR 4064
Bullet: Hornady 150 Interlock SP Primer: CCI 200
Case Prep: F/L and trimmed. Neck graphited. Temp: 62° F.
Notes:

46.2 gr 46.6 gr 47.0 gr 47.4 gr 47.8 gr

2763 2791 2825 2813 2859
2757 2792 2811 2829 2851
2756 2787 2812 2846 2837
2751 2773 2820 2844 2857

ES: 12.0 19.0 14.0 33.0 22.0
AV: 2756.8 2785.8 2817.0 2833.0 2851.0
SD: 4.9 8.8 6.7 15.3 9.9

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Originally Posted by devnull
Bringing this thread back. Anyone found a decent load that produces under an inch? Post your load.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Yeah, that's the picture I was talking about!
Glad I said "don't quote me" on the load, as I was off on the charge and the flavor of 168 Match bullet.
Along with devnull, I am very interested in what success folks have had with good hunting bullets in these M12s. I'll shoot some more tomorrow morning - hoping for the best.
I should mention that on my last trip to the range, unlike the 168 SMKs, the 165 NBTs did not shoot as well seated to the lands as seated to fit the magazine. With Varget they were almost MOA but not quite. Hoping Big Game may do better tomorrow.


Rex

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I’m not a great shot. These are (2) 3 shot 100 yard groups. These groups are with blue box Federal 150 SP. Getting dialed in on paper I didn’t have great expectations but acceptable expected performance. Well damn! I’m really pleased overall for the least expensive set up I own in my big game battery of rifles. I could see myself toting this rifle a good bit this fall. Good trigger. Solid stock. I really like the overall length of rifle and the weight is not light, but not heavy either. I am not too excited with the bolt, but damn at $509 shipped, I’m not gonna complain. It will be an excellent stand hunting rifle. Shoots different ammo to same POI. Just really surprised by this little rifle.

Mauser M12 set up & groups https://imgur.com/a/vX6e20u


Regards,
Nick- Georgia
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