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Joined: Feb 2001
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Ok how to install baffles on existing house no attic from the outside any video links?


kk alaska

Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
GB1

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Originally Posted by cwh2
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by ironbender

Good on you for reusing your pantyhose.

It is his favorite mask... but he does not use the legs... hence the excess pantyhose leg sectioms...

You know what I always say.... Waist not, want not.

That’s catchier than waist not, Ice melt.
wink


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
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Waisted away again! In Victoria's Secretville!


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by JeffA
Amazing how much time and money some spend every winter on such a baffling problem.


The solution is non-baffling

[Linked Image]

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Build better and repair less , I got 70 r's in the roof , and what ever the outside temp in the rest of the space...


I work harder than a ugly stripper....
IC B2

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Originally Posted by MuskegMan

Originally Posted by JeffA
Amazing how much time and money some spend every winter on such a baffling problem.


The solution is non-baffling

[Linked Image]






Pretty easy way to add a c-note to your monthly electric bill.


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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At this point, until the ice melts getting more ventilation (air circulation) in the roof. After the ice melts Art is correct. Ice and water shield from the edge of the roof to AT LEAST 4 feet above the exterior walls. Then figure out how to get more ventilation. I've even put a box fan up in the roof. Helps a lot. Especially after a long cold spell and before it warms up and all that ice built up on the rafters starts to melt.


NRA LIFE MEMBER
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS
ESPECIALLY THE SNIPERS!
"Suppose you were an idiot And suppose you were a member of Congress... But I repeat myself."
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Originally Posted by cwh2
When we were building the shop the boiler went out and the mechanical contractor wanted to heat the place to avoid issues with the in floor tubing (as I recall it was a pretty good cold snap). He brought in a big salamander heater, and of course there was no insulation in the lid yet (and no lid for that matter). Overnight it built a 14" thick ice dam the entire width of the overhang, which was not quite 3 feet. I was insulating the walls at the time and so much water came in that the insulation was falling out of the bays.

I spent 10 hours up on a ladder breaking ice over my head with a framing hammer. Make a channel, get the water draining, rinse and repeat.

Ice melt or water softener salt stuffed in a leg of pantyhose and laid over the dam will help a lot to dig a channel. Beware that when a 1 foot by 3 foot chunk of ice finally lets go for a 20 foot drop, you AND your ladder should be out of the way. smile

Heat trace applied at the eave is worthwhile on a metal roof. They make a specific heat trace for shingle roofs exactly to prevent ice damming. However much prevention it takes is worth having to apply even a little bit of the cure.

Your boiler guy had head stuck in arsehole


For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
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JeffA is dead on! Proper design (from the start or via retrofit) beats band-aid "solutions" every time.

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Originally Posted by JeffA
Originally Posted by akmtnrunner
I live in neighborhood that went up fast during the pipeline boom of the 70's, so there wasn't a lot of quality effort. I am super thankful that my Dad talked me into blowing in a bunch of extra roof insulation (and maintaining the airflow) right after buying my place. My neighbors' houses have ridiculous icing issues but mine is pretty much ice free.


Keeping a roof system breathing is completely lost on many DIY'ers.
All my life I've had homes in heavy snow county in Alaska and NW Montana and never had a ice dam on one of them.

Properly insulating and ventilating a home in the south is every bit as important. Summer heat build up in attic spaces will cook asphalt shingles from the bottom up shortening the life of them considerably. Moisture trapped in these non-ventilated spaces creates rot, mildew and mold.

Then there's the spray foam guys....



I totally agree. I built my 3 houses and none every had more than a few 12" ice cycles. I build with Energy Heel trusses. I gives me 8" of insulation room out to the outside of the outside wall. I rarely use the styrofoam air vents anymore. I make the air vents with 1" pink foam . This gives me R5 wiht only 1" of room. I do this about every 3rd truss. Between the trusses that dont have my home made vents , I pack regular insulation about the walls and between the trusses. but push the insulation to the outside of the wall, or at least so I can still see half the top plate of the wall.Then you can use spray foam and foam the top plate of the wall and up to the bottom of the sheathing , under the shingles. Spray the foam up the bottom of the sheathing ( under the shingles) up 4' or so. This eliminates all , or 99% of the ice back damming. Foam is expensive. If its too much , you can take foam sheets and to the same. I put R 60 in my last ceiling with cellulose . I also have 4" of closed cell foam in my walls. The house is so efficient that it would cost me about $1,000 a winter to heat my house at todays rates of Natural gas. It is a 2200 sq. ft. house with bigg windows and 9' ceilings. If I didnt have windows or doors, I dont think it would cost $500 to heat this house. I live in SE Wisconsin in wind swept farm country , so its very windy many days.


But the fruits of the spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness,faithfulness, Gentleness and self control. Against such things there is no law. Galations 5: 22&23
IC B3

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