Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Question for automotive experts.

Anyone ever blow out a refrigerant seal from over pressure?

Say if the a.c. clutch didn't cycle due to a mugged up clutch?

I guess a failure of a weak spot in the condenser is more likely than blowing an o-ring...


There is at least some pressure on the low side
I just pressed the downside port stem to see if it hissed.
Which it did..

Buy a new truck.

Bad pulley or idler.

What year, make and model? Most ac systems have a high pressure blow off valve on the compressor, when the compressor builds to much pressure the valve will release it. If that's the case plan on spending some serious money.

high pressure isn't released by a 'blow off' since r-12. has an electric sensor that just cuts off the clutch. the stethoscope is a good idea. i just used a long extension. idler pulley the most common culprit.

btw, all a/c compressor seals leak a tiny bit. it lubes the seal.

Often the idler tensioner will begin to allow the idler to come out of square which causes the belt to "scrub" as it is moving.

It's not easy for the untrained eye to spot.

My idler pulley surface was so polished after 250,000+ miles it would squeal with a new belt. The new pulley was considerably more textured than the polished one. Problem solved.

The old belt was worn when I changed it.
I compared the grooves with a coin check and it was a significant difference.



A metal rod and an empty soup can make a pretty good substitute for a stethoscope..

Guess the electromagnetic clutch won't really "stick"...

...............First off, I would do anything or have wrenches turned unless or until you have more frequency and consistency with the noise. If the noise gets more frequent, then that means you will be able to better figure out where and what the problem is......Sounds like it could be coming from your ac compressor clutch...If the noise does not come back with more frequency then I would not worry about it.

Your clutch maybe working for now , but that black goop you found is the rubber/Plastic moulding around your armature for the clutch . Very common problem on ag / industrial equipment.
Get the numbers and make of your compressor and have it replaced. Hardest thing on ac clutch is not enough air flow thru the condenser, a lot of idling in hot weather will drive the high side pressure thru the roof.

I like this analysis - could explain a bunch of those symptoms, and probably the deal.

Thanks Bigsqueeze, Abe and CCC.C (sorry missed the fourth "C")
(And all previous contributors)

I think the noise was the compressor dying...

Went to the Brand new auto parts store and borrowed their manifold gauge set..
Think I was the first to use it...
Low side pressure up over 100psi.
High side just slightly higher so my assumption is the pressure is going back through the compressor which never cycles because it cannot reduce the low side pressure enough.

I don't think that the orifice valve opened up on its own!

I thin the worn belt probably contributed to the compressor failure and probably the battery (which I replaced right before the belt)..

The belt probably should have been replaced a year ago but the only sign of wear was the grooves had opened up a touch.

We will see what the new compressor does....

I also would check the cooling air supply to the condenser, as Abe noted.

I checked the fans today and they both operate when the AC is switched on.
Maybe I should back flush the fins with some canned air?

Best of all the New unit is American made, came with all new seals and is recharged with lubricant.

God Bless Texas!

I bet that set you back several Benjamins. Nice to have it fixed though.

Well not several, but a few..
I just hope that the bolts are not too stubborn.
Gotta prep them with pb-blaster....

I was trying to find the accumulator/dryer, apparently it is stashed next to the condenser...

Gotta love dealerships that make their parts diagrams available....

I just love replacing things that were installed on the lower quarter of the motor before the motor was installed....
At least they made a little room to work...
But I think they assumed people would be using an air ratchet....

But I learned why mechanics never make any money..I was looking for a 1/2" drive 10mm socket..
I had to go through the Snap-on guy who I just happened to pass on my way back from the hardware store..
Wow..
And of course my breaker bar still barely gave me enough room to get the socket on the banjo bolt head...

On the bright side, it went back together way easier than it came apart ...

So the isolator is cooked...
And the air gap is effectively zero (can't get a .002 in)

I also see some scoring on the edge of the eccentric lobe..
But it still compresses and draws..
Although it occasionally drags like there is material in there.

Assuming the clutch failed and spun the compressor until it didn't have sufficient oil.

Any DIY tricks to hold the clutch still?
I wanted to pull it and inspect the compressor face before i recharge the system..
It's got three little buttons on the face of the plate, they protrude 2-3mm from the face plate, but the plate is recessed below the isolator..

And I just realized I had a 10 mm for one of those huskey open center sockets that would have worked on that banjo bolt...
I guess you can never have enough 10mm sockets...

didn't the new compressor come with the clutch installed? the air gap shouldn't be that small. the clutch wasn't engaged, was it.

It did..
Spec is .014-.026

But trying to get my head clear that there is no chance of a bad orifice...

Since the low side pressure was up over 100psi
And it seems unlikely that backflow occured thorough the compressor.

I guess it would help to know what the expected equalized pressure across the system should be..