Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Construction advise/options

Imbecile

The OP is discussing issues with the half inch OSB deflecting between the joists, he doesn’t say anything about the joists themselves deflecting
Battens will break the span of the floor sheets above and male an air gap which will help with insulation
The spaces between the battens can be inlayed with 3/4 foam sheet if more insulation is wanted

Use housewrap under carpets in a place with an unheated space.

By guest you mean someone who will work for beer and later invitations?

How bad would it be to staple in paper fronted bats to the floor joists from underneath?

If you are gonna build up the floor with foam and plywood you could add poly tubing and a tank to give yourself a heated floor plumb it to a water heater or a tank by the wood stove or propane heater...

Like others have said, and I just did this.....lay down 2x4 sleepers 12" OC ...7/16" osb over that will take alot of the flex.
Insulate with 1 1/2" foam board, the stuff I just used for a job was R 7....it worked good.
The material cost must be ridiculous up there.

Unless I misunderstood something in the description, the paper side goes n the warm side of application.

Sounds like there is no sub floor! Or the OSB was to be the subfloor, and needs another layer. Sub floor is usually over an inch thick, tongue and groove. Unless I'm missing something.

lots of advice, but most don't take into account the location. KP is the end of nowhere guys. just getting there is work let alone building materials.
anybody price plywood lately?
the op's idea for mitigating the deflection of the 1/2 osb seams by scabbing 2x4's between the joist is the best for fixing that.
hope OP is young. BTDT and makes me tired to think about it now.

Excellent advice. Thinking ahead because now's the time.

OP is anything but young!

Ouch 😣

Sorry Larry. Couldn’t not swing at that’n.

Hell, he’s almost as old as ingwe. 😆

Usually.
It's been a while since I put any in (thankfully)
But since las is trying to insulate between the shop and the first floor it should help him accomplish what he wants and the plastic wrapped packages are easier to bring into a remote spot than foam board.

las,
If you put some sort of plank or laminate flooring crossing the seams that might help stiffen it up and save you the hassle of plywood sheets..

Add a pony wall under floor joists. Sounds like there should have been one there to begin with.

Burn the POS to the ground and start over, doing it right the first time......

I may be missing the OPs question but additional joists on hangers seems less work than scabbing 2x4s between?

I would think a tank of spray foam on an atv wouldnt be impossible.

Las, take this from a guy who's actually built a cabin on the Kenai Peninsula, and helped many others build theirs...

You have more than one problem, but the fix isn't too hard.

1. 2' on center floor joists is too much, no going back and fixing that now, see #2.

2. 1/2" OSB is way too thin, and the wrong material for a floor at a rec cabin with propane heat.

Do this: buy some TYPAR (not tyvek) from SBS. Buy some unfaced R-21 insulation cut for 2' on center. Put the insulation up in-between the joists, then staple the typar as you go to hold it up. You "MIGHT" need to add some cross-ways stringers (bats) after the fact to keep the sagging down. DO NOT USE PLASTIC HERE- YOU WANT IT TO BREATHE
Add at least another 3/4' plywood to the floor. Preferably real plywood. Another option: if you can get ahold of a [bleep] ton of rough cut, you can at 2" of that in planks over the OSB... make sure you screw to the joists, not just the OSB. If you're down Caribou Hills way, Roderick does a good job with rough cut... might be cheaper than plywood, and would actually be kinda finished with a little sanding and sealing.

Get rid of the propane tank heater. That thing makes a ton of water, and will mold the crap out of your wood. At the very least, get a vented heater.

Since the living quarters are on second floor, above the shop/garage, and possible bedrooms on third floor, make sure you have emergency escapes in case of fire. At minimum, properly sized "openable" windows and deployable (rolled up) ladders.

Pictures?

I think our contractors on the bathroom started the rec cabin........ at least the time lines are starting to look the same.

I'll try to get down and take pics in a few days. Depends on how breakup proceeds.. As said, There is no crunch here. And now I can blame any FU on you guys, as usually I think things over thoroughly for a good time, pick the best option, build, and two weeks later think of a better way......

There is plenty of load bearing wall underneath, roughly 10' span - no flex there. I don't recall what the stringers are, and they may not be 24OC - I'll have to look. It's the friggin thin OSB and lack of insulation that needs addressing, even if it has held up for 20 years already.

Yes, it's in the Caribou Hills, and built with a lot of rough-cut - but it must be from good dry timber. Dimensions on the RC are to spec, with no shrinkage and little cracking or warping.

So it is 20X22 and 30 feet plus tall?

About right. Ugly, too. In reply to another post, it has deck and exit doors on both 2nd and third levels- outside stairs to 2nd, long drop from third! That may have to be addressed also. Imgur isn't working right now - says my images don't exist, tho I just loaded one.

Ok- had to go reverify my email addy- friggin computer updates screw something up every time! Here is the deathtrap stairs we must replace - those are 2x6 steps, and a 45 angle....