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Joined: Oct 2008
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I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.

GB1

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Buy a Ford 6.7


NRA Life Member

"You might as well be wrong, as be right and not know it"
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I think part of the problem with the front suspension is just from the weight of the cummins.


God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
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must not use salt on the roads where you are. my 05 disintegrated by 14. haven't seen a vehicle rust like that since the 70's.


My diploma is a DD214
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Replace steering tracking bar and any associated parts with it.Replace head bolts with high grade studs.Adjust valves


If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
IC B2

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They are generally pretty solid, I'd replace the other wheel bearing though. The front ends on any of the diesels don't last because of the weight. Hoses and belts just get old and brittle. Make sure and use good quality fuel filters.


"Life is tough, even tougher if your stupid"
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You sound like a 6.0 ford owner

An 05 5.9 24V Cummins is about bulletproof


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Originally Posted by Quartermaster
Buy a Ford 6.7

Uh....no!

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Any Cummins I have run has been a good engine.


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2 yrs ago

I sold my bro's '04 Cummin's 6 sp M/T w/123K miles

Was from West PA......reg cab long bed

Undercarriage was schhiddt......

Sold it here in Utah......thought about keeping it......but

kept my one owner/clean/Utah Chebby 2500HD crew instead


T R U M P W O N !

U L T R A M A G A !

IC B3

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I had to replace the rear brake hoses on mine. They collapsed internally and caused the brakes to drag.

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I have an '05 W2500 with the 5.9 and 6spd manual. Service (Lube, oil, oil filter) every 5,000 miles. R&R fuel filter every 15,000 miles. R&R air filter every 30,0000 miles. Putting the aftermarket nylon bushings in the front suspension will stretch out the time between front end rebuilds. Mine, the paint started peeling clear coat in '14 or '15. Rusting out the fender wells and door sills in '17 or '18. Throw a sheet of plywood in the bed to cover the holes that rusted thru around the goose neck hitch.

I bought my truck out of Corsicana, TX in '06. At one year old, the front suspension bolts still had the gold cadmium plating showing. Zero red rust. Two weeks in KY summer weather the rust started showing on the bolts. One month in KY summer humidity, every bolt on the truck was covered with red oxide rust. My son bought the truck off me and took it to S.C in 2015 or 2016. Katy bar the door. It was rotted by the time it came back to KY in 2018.

Just over 200K miles. I plan to drive the wheels off it...



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Cummins 5.9 B series are the toughest and hard to kill.

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Originally Posted by Rick n Tenn
Cummins 5.9 B series are the toughest and hard to kill.

till you lose a freeze plug... melted the pistons in my 97 12v the end of Feb after the big freeze. in the shop getting a new engine built, compound turbos, etc.


God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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Originally Posted by stxhunter
Originally Posted by Rick n Tenn
Cummins 5.9 B series are the toughest and hard to kill.

till you lose a freeze plug... melted the pistons in my 97 12v the end of Feb after the big freeze. in the shop getting a new engine built, compound turbos, etc.



I have a feeling you will be grinning big time . My brother claims his is kicking out over 700 horse power.

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I have a 2004. I’ve rebuilt the front end, wheel bearing assemblies, couple of water pumps. It has 206,000miles on it. It’s been the best truck I’ve ever owned, giving it to oldest grandson soon. That truck will run faster, pull better that my 2018 dodge diesel.

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Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.


The best way is not to drive it.





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Water pump.

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Good Gosh, you've rebuilt this, that & replaced 2 of something in 200K & it's been the best truck you've had ?

WTF were you buying before, Yugo's?

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Originally Posted by gunzo
Good Gosh, you've rebuilt this, that & replaced 2 of something in 200K & it's been the best truck you've had ?

WTF were you buying before, Yugo's?

Sounds better than head studs, deletes, def and whatever else it takes to make newer ones go the long haul. I’ll keep my 2000 7.3 and gladly not be as cool as all the new jacked up flat billed def crew


Brad
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Let’s Go Brandon
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