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Originally Posted by gunzo
Good Gosh, you've rebuilt this, that & replaced 2 of something in 200K & it's been the best truck you've had ?

WTF were you buying before, Yugo's?


Sounds like you're a "truck" owner. How many loads of groceries have you brought home in your half ton?

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If'n 'ya need it ya need it.

But the diesel owners that beat their wallets to death owning one of these humpuffers to pull an ATV trailer or get "groceries".

No thang, I've had 500 HP muscle cars that the ol lady used to borrow, to get groceries.

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I've got an '06 Ram 3500 Cummins 6 speed manual with 112k on it, and other than standard maintenance the only thing I had to do to it was put in a new clutch.

The OEM dual mass flywheel clutches are a well known POS but mine had some help going out thanks to mouse nest in it. Had no clue this was even possible.

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Originally Posted by gunzo
If'n 'ya need it ya need it.

But the diesel owners that beat their wallets to death owning one of these humpuffers to pull an ATV trailer or get "groceries".

No thang, I've had 500 HP muscle cars that the ol lady used to borrow, to get groceries.


500 hp is a laughable number to most diesel guys that have anything except a bone stock truck. One thing that a diesel truck does very often is cause a major case of butthurt to the gas truck guys. Meanwhile, we don't have to have airbags to hold up our bumper-pull trailers. When you use stuff, it takes maintenance to keep it up.

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Again, if ya need it, go for it. Even if yo don't & want it, go for it. I have.

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Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.

Upgrade the ball joints to all metal grease type lifetime warranty. The engine mounts should be changed also. U-joints are due. Use only spicer OEM. You will be a very good heavy mechanic by 200k

Last edited by MM879; 04/16/21.
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That's a nice truck, the idler pulley, belt tensioner, serpentine belt and the water pump are wear items that can strand you. You need to invest in an AirDog or Fass fuel pump and filter system.


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On the way to get groceries. I like fish.

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Originally Posted by MM879
Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.

Upgrade the ball joints to all metal grease type lifetime warranty. The engine mounts should be changed also. U-joints are due. Use only spicer OEM. You will be a very good heavy mechanic by 200k

This is what I did and I replaced everything on the front end at the same time, took 3 days in the summer heat, work 15 minutes then take a break to cool down.


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I forgot to mention I have replaced the water pump and put in new thermostat.

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Dodge water pumps go out around 100,000 miles.

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Any diesel vehicle after 1998.5 should have fuel filtration down to 5 microns before the fuel hits the factory filter and injection pump IMHO.

Micro silica in fuel will wear out injectors on high pressure fuel delivery... kinda like a sand blaster nozzle wears out making for substandard spray.

Cummins injectors are fairly cheap and easy to change... V8 Ford and Chevy... not so much.

Why 1998.5+? EPA regs and rule changes for "cleaner" meant higher pressure. High pressure means the micro silica can do more wear damage.

I sold a 2004 and went back to 12 valves that have been built up.

Currently have:

1998.5 24 valve Cummins speciality built dump (just replaced the FASS pump, filters, VE44 pump, TPS and fraying throttle cable, but still have some idle inconsistency... assuming worn injectors. She only has 286k miles.

1997 12 Valve P7100 with oversized injectors and fuel delivery. She is a real monster. Only 262k miles

1996 12 Valve P7100 that will get oversized injectors and fuel delivery this summer I hope. Runs great as is, but just cleaning up a refresh. 425k miles.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.


You have cover the basics.

Transmission bands should be adjusted at fluid changes. Not hard, but talk to a couple pros before you do it yourself.

Rust in doors, rockets and jambs... can pretreat with grease if so inclined.

Dodge switches and plastics... and seats suck. Expect disappoint.

I replaced the seats in two of mine mint condition seats from a Prius... great seats and makes me smile.

I have owned about 25 Cummins trucks... engines are legendary... everything else is typical Mopar crapola.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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I agree cash is king.

I got 2 dodge Cummins at 300,000 plus.

One at 100,000 plus.

Mopar crapola that keeps cummin.


"Shoot low sheriff, I think he's riding a shetland!" B. Wills












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Originally Posted by CashisKing
Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.


You have cover the basics.

Transmission bands should be adjusted at fluid changes. Not hard, but talk to a couple pros before you do it yourself.

Rust in doors, rockets and jambs... can pretreat with grease if so inclined.

Dodge switches and plastics... and seats suck. Expect disappoint.

I replaced the seats in two of mine mint condition seats from a Prius... great seats and makes me smile.

I have owned about 25 Cummins trucks... engines are legendary... everything else is typical Mopar crapola.


Can't argue a bit of this. The Dodge lacks a lot of comfort and quality, but I bought it for the towing capabilities. Can't afford a truck to replace it, so going to keep it going.

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I have a '06 with 114K. Replaced ball joints and brakes at about 80k. It gets dealer service every 5k.
No other problems, but i think I may need a clutch replacement sometime in the future.
Prior to that I had a couple of company owned 7.3 fords and think they were better than the Dodge. Turned the last one in at retirement with 245K and had no doubt it was ready to go anywhere anytime


















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