I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
OK- which one of you guys put a curse on me yesterday?
I'd also ask "What are the chances?", but we all know that's nearly 100%.
Isn't it amazing. A 1/8 " thick nail in a 30' long piece of wood and you choose that exact spot to cut. I have even just cut the edge off one. How I thee hell...?
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
OK- which one of you guys put a curse on me yesterday?
I'd also ask "What are the chances?", but we all know that's nearly 100%.
Isn't it amazing. A 1/8 " thick nail in a 30' long piece of wood and you choose that exact spot to cut. I have even just cut the edge off one. How I thee hell...?
Ya can’t coach that. That’s natural talent!! 🤣🤣
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
I use a little $30 Harbor Freight grinder to sharpen my chains. It works good, but technique is everything.
I set the stops on the grinder where it only dusts off the cutting edge of each tooth. Also, I file down the rakers the first time I sharpen the chain. In my opinion, the rakers are too high on the chains sold today. After taking a 16th of an inch off the rakers, the chain teeth take a deeper bite and results in a faster, cleaner cut.
Take 1/16” off the rakers!!!
You mean MAYBE 1/64”........and you need a manly saw for that.
Tried tocut a big log with my dads Husky 2100. That's a 100cc saw, it's got some balls.
Anyway, it kept bogging down. It has a system in the anti vibe that engaged the chainbrake under enough load. And the chain grabbed and pulled so hard it either stalled the clutch or engaged the brake.
Gave up and used my 372.
Later, dad ask if it did ok?
Then explained that he used an angle grinder to take down the takers, and "maybe" took too much off.
It ruined a good chain. The teeth would have been almost gone if you tried filing them untill the takers were right.
No idea what the hell got into him. Been running a saw for a long time. He just got a wild hair and thought a grinder would be quicker.
Because, a 70 year old retired guy is in a big dam hurry.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
The power sharpeners are fine for the guy cutting firewood next to his house, or the cutter who uses his saw less than 4 hours a year. The downside is once you use them on your chain you have to keep using them. A file will give you way more life in your chain and easier to touch up every time you fill up.
Interesting point as to the original post. I'll stick with the little plate to slap on and file them down but good to know!
I cut some 70+ km from my house and take a half dozen chains and two bars with me, each time I refuel I drop on another chain and change the bar over as it saves getting fingers hot and keeps my chains in good order. I cut black box and river gum which has a lot of dirt in it from white-ants...I don't piss about with chains and files as I am not interested in sitting about touching up chains instead of cutting.
Eight to ten loads gets us through winter, the fire will be lit in another week and it will go out around September/October.
Oh...and I am down to an even dozen chains for the 372 and a half dozen for the 455...both are 3/8 .058...seems to work for me.
Glad you found a system that works for you, although it seems more of a niche scenario more than the norm for most wood cutters. Toting around a slew of chains and extra bars doesn't sound enjoyable. I don't cut as much as I used to but when running 1-2 8 man crews I wouldn't have relished buying or making enough chains that everyone had 6 spares. Seems an expensive way to get out of using a file is all
Beware of any old man in a profession where one usually dies young.
Big wind storm knocked a bunch of timber down in as nearby state park several years ago. They big the logging and it went to some helicopter crew.
Now that was a novel deal. Nobody here had ever saw such a thing. People came to watch them fly the turns in.
Anyway, this was a corporate, organized by the book operation. The cutters were required to run the safety chains on their saws. Anyone caught with anything else had problems.
So, they went to the local shop and bought traditional chains, and carried them into the woods in a pocket. At the end of the day, they swapped, And hung the good chain in a tree. It became a common topic in logging circles. Logging here isn't corporate. It's family or a couple guys running saws, cutting wood. No HR BS. These rednecks couldn't imagine being told to run crappy chains or being forced to wear helmet and ear muffs.
Not that safety gear is a bad idea.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Glad you found a system that works for you, although it seems more of a niche scenario more than the norm for most wood cutters. Toting around a slew of chains and extra bars doesn't sound enjoyable. I don't cut as much as I used to but when running 1-2 8 man crews I wouldn't have relished buying or making enough chains that everyone had 6 spares. Seems an expensive way to get out of using a file is all
I cut for myself, the amount I cut each load generally fetches between $250-$300 per load depending on who you purchase from locally ...it costs me $25 to cut and transport to my back yard. I do this for personal use on my weekends off work.
I generally buy five more chains each fourth season and these cost me $120 for five Carlton 72 .058 3/8 delivered to my mailbox.
I also drive right up to the wood I cut.
It works for me.
PS...and if I can figure out an easier and cheaper way I shall give that a whirl too.
I cut for myself, the amount I cut each load generally fetches between $250-$300 per load depending on who you purchase from locally ...it costs me $25 to cut and transport to my back yard.
That's about $150-$230 US dollars! Not sure what your load is but a full size pickup truck here is about a 1/2 a chord of wood and at least out at our camp in WV it would run you $75-$90 depending on when you bought it. Usually red oak so good burning stuff.
I got lucky a few years ago and the power company came through trimming the lines. And trim they did! Cut a bunch of 20" and larger stuff. None of the folks on our road wanted it so I cut it all and split and stacked and covered and we didn't need to buy any wood for 5 years. We sold the camp this year and there was still almost a chord there.
I did learn a lesson though and was glad I was wearing chaps. All it took was a second and if I hadn't it would have been a bloody mess.
If something on the internet makes you angry the odds are you're being manipulated
I cut for myself, the amount I cut each load generally fetches between $250-$300 per load depending on who you purchase from locally ...it costs me $25 to cut and transport to my back yard.
That's about $150-$230 US dollars! Not sure what your load is but a full size pickup truck here is about a 1/2 a chord of wood and at least out at our camp in WV it would run you $75-$90 depending on when you bought it. Usually red oak so good burning stuff.
I got lucky a few years ago and the power company came through trimming the lines. And trim they did! Cut a bunch of 20" and larger stuff. None of the folks on our road wanted it so I cut it all and split and stacked and covered and we didn't need to buy any wood for 5 years. We sold the camp this year and there was still almost a chord there.
I did learn a lesson though and was glad I was wearing chaps. All it took was a second and if I hadn't it would have been a bloody mess.
I don't cut without chaps or ppe...I leave that risk to those that can afford it.
added, load is heavy 7x5 trailer with a 2' 6" cage on top stacked to the max, and that load consisting of black box is HEAVY.
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