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tmitch Offline OP
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You must have gotten one of the last ones, last I heard they only had 3 left. Was the blue 77 in .450? Haven't decided whether to get mine threaded or not. Ordered a Silencerco Hybrid awhile ago but they must be backlogged pretty bad and I'm getting impatient


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Originally Posted by tmitch
You must have gotten one of the last ones, last I heard they only had 3 left. Was the blue 77 in .450? Haven't decided whether to get mine threaded or not. Ordered a Silencerco Hybrid awhile ago but they must be backlogged pretty bad and I'm getting impatient


Didn't ask how many stainless steel were left, not many when I called on May 28. Randy brought out a blued model for me to look at, it did look great. I'am going to Mag-na-Port to check on threading the barrel there just a couple miles away, and do great work and complete in a couple days. I trust Kenny at Mag-na-port, Larry and I were friends and I have known the family for close to 50 years. There might be a problem with adding threads to the barrel. Muzzle is .672" to small for 11/16"-24, I think. If the barrel is cut to 16.5" and I prefer short barrels it will be .721", still think its border line to have done. I have a Ruger American with a 16.5' factory barrel that is .825" shoulder to seat on. Ruger put a bell muzzle on to add metal for a suppresser. Also checked a factory AR-15 450 Bushmaster that is .742". I just don't understand why all manufactures just don't add treads to all barrels for suppressors at the factory. Especially Randy's one off guns going to Michigan. It would cost a few dollars if done when the gun is manufactured. Even if the buyer as only putting a muzzle brake on, extra cash flow would be added.

It all depends what you did getting your suppresser. If you did a "Trust" its going to take over a year. File electronically "individual" a couple months.

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tmitch Offline OP
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When I was there picking up my lh 77 there was a customer picking up a rh stainless 77 in 450 (Randy said they got "a couple" with the lh shipment) and it had the threaded/belled muzzle.
I also have one of the threaded 16.5" Americans which started me down the path to get a suppressor. With the addition of my new (unthreaded) 77 .450 I'm rethinking the suppressed .450 idea but I've read that you can use 5/8"-32 for the .450BM. Might work better on the thinner/unbelled 77 barrel?

from Silencer Central website:

Common Pitch Range
.17 to below .243 – 1/2×28
.243 to .300 Win Mag – 5/8×24

Common Platforms
.223/5.56 (AR15) – 1/2×28
.30 Cal (AR10 etc.) – 5/8/24
300 BLK – 5/8×24
AK – M 14×1 LH
*350 Legend – 1/2×28
**450 Bushmaster – 5/8×32
458 SOCOM – 5/8×24


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My thought when I talk to Kenny (Mag-na-Port) today is add a machined bell end on the Ruger 77, like Ruger installs on the Ruger American 16.5" barrel. Wouldn't be very difficult turn the end of the barrel the length of the bell plus threads so there is no taper on the barrel make a bell that will when heated slides on the barrel then let cool. Once in place finish machining it would be difficult to see the seam.
I had a machine shop been retired for 15 years. Wouldn't be difficult to do. Should have kept one lathe just to play with.
Myself 5/8" just is not enough even 11/16" is a better minimum for .451". Remember the shoulder to seat the suppressor is what is needed to be larger. If you were just adding a muzzle brake, it wouldn't matter much. Only adding about 1.5" for a brake wouldn't matter much, a suppressor is closer to 7" and $1000 plus a stamp, a lot to loose.

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tmitch Offline OP
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I'd be interested in what you come up with


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Still would have to be welded or soldered, or you might create a suppressor launcher.

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Originally Posted by KenMi
Still would have to be welded or soldered, or you might create a suppressor launcher.


Impossible to happen ! Actually if you read it properly there would be a shoulder on the barrel for the added piece, because a barrel is tapered. Kind of hard and costly to put a taper on the inside of the round stock needed for the barrel. Also when heated the added piece would expand making it larger, slide on a cooler barrel and cool it could never ever come off, then screw on the suppressor or cap. It's never going to come off, barrel and added piece would heat up from shooting at the same rate and cool.

Secondly how in the hell would a threaded suppressor or muzzle brake launch off a rifle, that has a cap, brake or suppressor mounted. There is a shoulder for the added piece on the barrel as a stop. I would have no problem shooting with the added piece that had .001" of slop to get on and not be soldered.

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The shoulder is a rear stop. The suppressor heats substantially more and faster than the barrel.
But, it would only be a $1000 mistake, so roll with it

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I think there are few things you can buy that are worth more then folding money in hand. Guns are one of them. Think about how often you break off $50 for gas, $40 for groceries, $20 for beer. Long after you've burned the gas, ate the food and swilled the libations, you'll be playing with that rifle. You returned from your local toy emporium richer not poorer!


Bore size is no substitute for shot placement and
Power is no substitute for bullet performance. 458WIN
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tmitch Offline OP
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As I understand what coyotewacker is proposing, the actual threads are cut into the barrel and a "spacer" is heat shrunk to a straight turned section of the barrel behind the threads and provides a larger diameter shoulder for the suppressor to contact. No suppressor launchin unless the end of the barrel breaks.

OGB, I like your reasoning!


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Originally Posted by tmitch
As I understand what coyotewacker is proposing, the actual threads are cut into the barrel and a "spacer" is heat shrunk to a straight turned section of the barrel behind the threads and provides a larger diameter shoulder for the suppressor to contact. No suppressor launchin unless the end of the barrel breaks.

OGB, I like your reasoning!


Can't cause the barrel is too small to thread. So proposing turning the end few inches of the barrel down even smaller, and straight, sliding a bushing sleeve over to increase the barrel diameter. The threading would be on the new sleeve. No mechanical connection between the sleeve and the barrel. That is what raised a red flag.
In theory it should work.

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tmitch Offline OP
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If you read his post he is cutting the barrel back to 16.5" where the barrel diameter is .721", which is plenty for 11/16"-24 thread (.687"), just not alot of extra for a good shoulder.


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