Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Tikka T3 synthetic stocks and paint

I’ve always used an adhesion promoter, it can only increase durability.

Brake cleaner does leave a residue. Don't use it on mountain bike brake discs, for example, as they don't get hot enough to burn off the residue. Car brakes will burn it off no problem.

Hitting the poly with a fairly aggressive solvent like acetone and then letting it evaporate just before the first coat of whatever you're going to hit it with helps soften the surface and let the chemicals of the paint bond with it a little more effectively.

Nice superlite. Looks great. I'm with you on using the adhesion promoter. The stuff I use is actually clear primer for plastics. It helps the basecoat stick to the stock better. I also use a clear over the paint. I know I posted a long time ago on this thread with detail on how I paint my stocks. I see others are posting pics of rifles they have done. Some Tikka's and some not Tikka's. Here's one of my favorites, but its not a Tikka:



I spent hours trying to get the paint right on that Brown PoundR. Its tough though. Elk hunting is not the gentlest sport, but so far the paint has not worn any. I remember having to paint the bottom metal of my old Ruger m77 338WM after every elk hunt. Pushing through all the brush around here is hard on a paint job... That brown paint is holding up very well though, but you need to use a couple/few coats of clear.

I lightly sanded mine, wiped it down with acetone (not drenched on the paper towel but damp) several times.
If I could figure out how to post pictures one here I would show a finished result. I did the paint on a paper plate, and sponge job on it.

I rattle canned a T3 stock years ago., Krylon paint. Did the base coat, put some leaves on it, painted more, different leaves and painted more.....functional camo. Then a clear coat.

Have had a couple flakes here and there, but just a blast of paint continues the camo pattern. Then again, it is a varmint hunting rifle that gets beat up a little, so I am less worried about a show room finish.

You guys have done some good painting. Not sure I have the patience for that.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/79496.jpg This one was done with Rustoleum camo paint and Matte clear

No plastic should ever be wiped with any petroleum product. Static can cause flash fire. It also remsins trapped in plastic. The top coats seal it in, it try's to escape & peels. Wipe with alcohol, sand, wipe once more. Spray an adhesion promoter then top coat. I'm an automotive body repairer/refinisher

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Prep-All, Bull Dog, Duracoat. . .

I had mine cerakoted.

It's spray paint. If it rubs off or scratches, just spray it again. Pretty simple stuff.