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Hell the blue face X disappeared years ago and now the white is a fuzzy.

No way i could see a quarter that far away, let alone anything smaller LOL

BP-B2

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finally got a real string.
58" measured 57-1/4" before mounting. vs. my hand made set up at 58"

brace height for the new string is about 9-3/4" with no twist.
I haven't been able to find a manufacturer recommendation on brace height (50# pull, 62" recurve, 58" AMO) but it looks better than the hand-heel hitting 4-3/4 I had with my home wound string.

The arrow tails are kicking high, or oscillating vertically so I need to figure out my nock point height.. the tails swing so much they were hitting branches above my shooting "tunnel" (31" 350 spine arrows, could probably go with 30.5"s) I figure I need to add a few twists as well.


P.S. not a fan of shrinkwrap fletchings....

Last edited by OldmanoftheSea; 06/15/21.

-OMotS



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All the guys here. Tell them the.particulars of your setup. They will be happy to help and are the next best thing to a trad pro shop or a friend that knows what they're doing.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/?gcl...h2H2yRvqbbqGAWtUd5czC0z5_T0aAgBjEALw_wcB


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Are you shooting a plastic rest or off the shelf?

They do make a vane for recurves now, supposedly usable off the shelf.

I dunno, i just run feathers on everything.

Porpoising sounds like there could be nockpoint and or fletching crashing the rest. Could be brace too.

Even if using an elevated rest, normal vanes probably gonna crash it to some degree.

Feathers, w nock rotated for minimal possible rest/ shelf contact, slightly high nock point. Should be close

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Originally Posted by hookeye
Are you shooting a plastic rest or off the shelf?

They do make a vane for recurves now, supposedly usable off the shelf.

I dunno, i just run feathers on everything.

Porpoising sounds like there could be nockpoint and or fletching crashing the rest. Could be brace too.

Even if using an elevated rest, normal vanes probably gonna crash it to some degree.

Feathers, w nock rotated for minimal possible rest/ shelf contact, slightly high nock point. Should be close

thx
off the shelf with the installed pad
I had vane skidmarks on the shelf so I retied the nocks higher.
much more consistent, but slightly low..
then tweaked the top nock back a bit lower
getting better.
some stretch set in so closer to 8.5" brace now.
cracked a couple shafts, but made a few wood arrows and as a result figured out how to repair the split shafts..
running mostly cheap easton private labels to get it dialed in.

any suggestions on points for home made wood arrows? mine seem to be rather erratic.
I made some flat broads out of simpson strong ties...the fletchings are not art either. but at 15-20 yards they seem to take wild turns...
FOC is real close to the carbon 21"s
need some field points for the wood..thinking the flat broad heads may be causing flyers..
thx.


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Go to Tradgang or Tradtalk. Very common posts,there.

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Originally Posted by WStrayer
Go to Tradgang or Tradtalk. Very common posts,there.

Thx WS.


-OMotS



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Found a good resource...
like Chris Long for barrel Harmonics and OBT

https://understandingarchery.wordpress.com/2020/03/03/a-recurve-tuning-method-like-none-other/


-OMotS



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Youtube the guys at The Push and Jake Kaminski.

Aint hard to find decent sources.

Ken Beck video i posted is old but solid.
Personally dont need to shave fletch and leave quills on like shown in intermediate step.

Bare to fletched has worked fine for me, for 30 plus yrs.

Mr. Beck is also a heck of a nice guy.
Practiced next to him one morninh at nationals.

Roger at BW also a good dude.

IC B3

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Good Video.
I hadn't gotten around to watching it before.
I am thinking I need to get a box of bare arrows and a jig.


-OMotS



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Just ordered a set of limbs from the guys in Nixa.
Man that stings the wallet.
But getting old means dropping the #.

Thank goodness I can tolerate PB&J for a long while (offset the limb cost LOL).

Last edited by hookeye; 06/21/21.
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congrats..
I feel your pain...
I am going with eye dominance on my return so my underdeveloped bow arm stabilizing muscles are feeling yesterdays practice..
glad I dont have to open the limb can yet...

relevant question:
Tiller, or tillering,
is it only a relevant concern for three piece bows?
or is it tied into nock point set on one piece bows?


-OMotS



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All four of the Blackwidows Ive had built were tillered split finger. Shot em fine 3 under too, just minor nockpt change.

Tab and skinny fingers maybe helps?

I dunno. Just shoot em. Papertune shows good. Screw on the broadheads and everything is fine.

Did change my anchor on one setup and it mandated more spine than usual. Had a couple like it before ( B50 rated ) and when I got a FF rated one things changed substantially ( IMHO ).

Really only recurve that didnt tune up super fast.
Got it figured out eventually.

Was a BW purchased used....had 5 of them LOL

Last edited by hookeye; 06/21/21.
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I suspect factory recurves are tillered for split finger.

Could just buy an ILF and do whatever you want smile

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Originally Posted by hookeye
I suspect factory recurves are tillered for split finger.

Could just buy an ILF and do whatever you want smile

thx.
going through various set-up guides just figuring what adjustment levers I need to worry about..
did a couple of searches but coulld not get a good description. just the means of adjustment for a three piece.

I need to work on form though before I get too far in the fine adjustment stuff.


-OMotS



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Wow there's a lot of knowledgable recurve shooters here!
I need to rehome my bow that I never thought I'd part with. The first question that comes to mind is how would one ship a 62" one piece recurve?
I also need to determine a value, I don't know if thats cool here but I'll tell you about it and appreciate any input I get.
It's a 55# 62" right hander. I bought it around 30 years ago from a nice old guy at a mom and pop archery shop in Seattle. It's marked Ridgerunner, asI recall the story it was his design that he had built by Martin in Yakima. I never got to use it much, I killed one deer and a few muskrat with it. I had a few other bows and sold most of them over the years since I wasn't using them but I kept the Ridgerunner, it fits me like a glove and comes up and on target almost automaticaly. I tried several takedowns but none felt anything like my one piece. I certainly couldn't let it go if there was even a chance I'd use it again so It languished in the basement.
. Life hasn't gone entirely according to plan and now I can't even string the bow, so it's time.
Some years later, after I'd moved away from Seattle, I learned that the old archer in the shop in Seattle was named Glenn St Charles and I should have asked him to sign the bow for me.

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Moto,
II like to ship in arrow boxes that I buy from a local archery shop. I cut them so that I can glue them together to fit the bow. So it takes a couple. I recommend that you reinorce them with extra carboard. Some guys will ship in plastic tubes, but the tubes roll of of autmatic sorters and seem to get broken more often.

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If you're shooting off the shelf then feathers are the way to go, vanes will not fly right off the shelf.
If you're arrows are porpoising they are spined wrong.
Get some 50-55 # arrows at your draw length and put feathers on them, 55-60 may work better if true center shot riser.

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Hmm i thought spine was left to right wobble ( fishtail ) and up n down ( porpoise ) was nock point.

Last edited by hookeye; 08/17/21.
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