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Originally Posted by StudDuck
I've used everything out there and went with a Wiha.

Borka tools are nice as well.

Another vote for Wiha! Made in Germany with the typical precision you would expect.

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NWT: I have and use a "Snap-On" inch pounds torque wrench for my amateur gunsmithing action torquing needs.
Been working wonderfully for 35+ years now.
Also have the tiny Wheeler Fat Wrench for rings/bases needs.
Hold into the wind
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Originally Posted by TBREW401
I have had a Snap on, 1/4 drive. for years, , --- buy once, cry once


Good advice.

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Lots of good advice. Fatwrench probably would have been fine, but changing out a number of scopes, so tomorrow I am ordering the Brownell’s Seekonk 1 to 75 inch pound since I currently have a Brownell’s credit I need to use up.

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Haven't seen them mentioned here. Fixit Sticks. I like the concept & the full kit seems handy. Redhawk Rifles sells them.

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If you want a " quality ' torque wrench you don't want the Fat Wrench. They are cheap, crude and hard to see the difference in graduations.
I have 5 or 6 different small torque wrenches including dial and click.
I have Proto, Snap on, Vortex, Wright tool and a Capri.

They have different values so I choose the one for the mission. Because I work in the aerospace industry I have to have mine calibrated annually.
The click ones come back in calibration every time. So far within 1%.

90% off the time I use the Capri or Vortex (same tool). I only use the dial when I want to see the torque change.
Wera and Wiha make great torque screwdrivers too.

Most guys that have the Wheeler have it because it was on the shelf at their local gun store. Shop for torque tools elsewhere.
Using a fat wrench is like loading ammo with a Lee load all...


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I have a nice little compact one. It came in a little plastic box about the size of a box beam made out of two longitudinally folded dollar bills. (~6"x1"x1")
I think that it goes up to 21.8 ft-lb or N-m (I think one is 21.x and the other 14ish)
it would probably work well on scopes, it has a standard hex-bit drive.
I believe it is made by Gustiforza(sp?)


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Only issue with the Wheeler is it doesn’t go high enough for action screws. Those I do by feel. Main purpose of the torque driver for me is to keep me from getting too frisky with ring screws, not precision. I do about 17-18 inch pounds, and have yet to have one slip in the rings.


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Pretty hard to compare the different torque wrenches/drivers locally. Along with the Seekonk from Brownell’s I ordered the Wiha to compare and see which one fits my needs the best. They seem to be totally different units.

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Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
Torque wrenches are for kids who haven’t had much experience with fasteners
Once you develop a feel for machinery it is really easy to tell when it is right, things like lubrication or threadlockers make a torque wrench redundant


So torquing the rod & main bolts and the head bolts on a car engine is a waste of time? Might want to also mention your ideas to the aerospace and jet engine manufacturers as well (and remember they don't use loctite, but rather safety wire). Critical fastening requires a torque wrench....spent 18 years in a field that required it or the fuel pump would become a thousand dollar paper-weight.

Last edited by sackett; 07/18/21.
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I have an Armstrong 1/4" drive dial torque wrench that has given me good service for 35 years for all manner of things that need to be torqued to inch pound specs.


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Fat Wrench.


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Originally Posted by sackett
Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
Torque wrenches are for kids who haven’t had much experience with fasteners
Once you develop a feel for machinery it is really easy to tell when it is right, things like lubrication or threadlockers make a torque wrench redundant


So torquing the rod & main bolts and the head bolts on a car engine is a waste of time? Might want to also mention your ideas to the aerospace and jet engine manufacturers as well (and remember they don't use loctite, but rather safety wire). Critical fastening requires a torque wrench....spent 18 years in a field that required it or the fuel pump would become a thousand dollar paper-weight.


We are talking about 6*48 scope mount screws here that maybe have 1/8” of engagement here and little amounts of inch pounds of torque, are you using safety wire?

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[/quote] We are talking about 6*48 scope mount screws here that maybe have 1/8” of engagement here and little amounts of inch pounds of torque, are you using safety wire?
[/quote]

The primary reason torque amounts started being suggested for scope mounting was NOT the strength of the screws, but the strength of scope tubes. A LOT of people (including some so-called professionals) were over-tightening ring-screws to the point where scopes started to malfunction. This is especially true of variables, since they have an "inner tube" (the erector tube, which in variables changes magnification) that can be affected by too much ring tightening. But over-tightening can also affect adjustments, and in some scopes it doesn't have to be much to affect them.


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MD, I recall you saying it was --Farmer tight

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Yep!

Apparently a lot of people think a scope won't stay firmly in place unless the rings put "waists" in the tube.


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How many of you have your tools calibrated?


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Yep!

Apparently a lot of people think a scope won't stay firmly in place unless the rings put "waists" in the tube.


What settings do you recommend for scope ring screws and scope mount screws? Thanks

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Originally Posted by BigNate
How many of you have your tools calibrated?


Good question! Where would one go to get this done? Machine shop?

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.[/quote] What settings do you recommend for scope ring screws and scope mount screws? Thanks[/quote]

Generally, whatever the mount manufacturer recommends, which is generally around 17-20 inch pounds--though scope manufacturers also often suggest settings.

But it varies with the thickness of the scope tube. Nightforce generally recommends 25 inch-pounds, because their tubes are thicker than typical lighter-weight hunting scopes, and NF scopes are also heavier as well, which often requires tighter rings to keep them in place during recoil (which if course also depends on the cartridge and rifle weight).


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