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Do pre 64 FWT's need a little forend pressure to shoot well? Barrel is floated except for the first 1.5". Inch and half 3 shot groups are about as well as I can make it do so far. Never had this much trouble with standard weight barrels.
Phil

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You guys can keep bedding them with chidt under the chamber if you want, but in my experience they shoot much better with the barrel totally freefloated:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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+1 on the full free float for pre 64 FWT .308 -- shoots sub minute of angle.


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Originally Posted by crshelton
+1 on the full free float for pre 64 FWT .308 -- shoots sub minute of angle.


My buddies 308 does too. I glass bedded his into this mcmillan and it's a shooting sob. I started a thread on the bedding job a few years ago, but all the pics are gone thanks to photobucket, or I'd post the link. A thread like that is worthless without pics though. Here's his rifle:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

After working up a handload with a lowly 150 gr. Hornady interlock and Varget, it puts them in the same ragged hole. Almost too boring. One of the best shooting 308's I've seen. I hate to say it, but it even shoots better than my Tikka 308...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Yep, no need to bed the rear of the barrel on 70 Featherweights, whether pre- or post-'64.


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I use a few drops of brown acrylic paint to the Acraglas after its mixed. Mix it again until the brown is blended - add another drop to blend better and start applying.
Works very well and doesn't change its hardening properties. I experimented with this when learning how to repair Red Wing stoneware. There is a learning curve to that, but for gunstocks its simple.
Good luck


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Originally Posted by bigwhoop
I use a few drops of brown acrylic paint to the Acraglas after its mixed. Mix it again until the brown is blended - add another drop to blend better and start applying.
Works very well and doesn't change its hardening properties. I experimented with this when learning how to repair Red Wing stoneware. There is a learning curve to that, but for gunstocks its simple.
Good luck

Good post. I just use Devcon 10110 and keep it slightly under the stock line. Works great... I don't really like Acraglas. To each his own though.. As long as the end result is as such, all is well...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Well, I guess I need to completely float the barrel and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
Phil

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Originally Posted by TenX
Well, I guess I need to completely float the barrel and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
Phil

With a good glass bedding job. Im assuming with your handle, you know things need a proper glass bedding job. You don't get consistent results otherwise...There are some that think otherwise, but you know how those guys fare in real world results.. TenX, if that is true, you've btdt.... I've met a lot of guys that say they are going to cut the x ring out. Some times it happens, most times it doesn't...



Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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I have glass bedded the stock stress free but did bed the first 1.5" of the barrel because with other rifles this is the method that has worked well for me. However none of these were FWT or light barrels so I'm in a learning curve with this weight of barrel. I'll take the bedding out of the barrel and see what happens. This is the fun part of a new acquisition if my bullet supply holds up.
Phil

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TenX you sound very knowledgeable, and your work can't be faulted that I can see. Although the chamber need not be bedded, I did not know it was detrimental if it was. I wouldn't hog out your chamber bedding just yet, just shim the action up a little for a shooting test. I think a thorough inspection of the mag box is in order, and definitely check rear tang screw clearance, and BSA won't like this, but the front of the recoil lug. Just some thoughts to consider...on a Mauser, the mag box can create flyers if it bears too heavily on the stock.


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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
You guys can keep bedding them with chidt under the chamber if you want, but in my experience they shoot much better with the barrel totally freefloated:
And my experience is exactly the opposite..


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Redneck
Do you put any pressure on the forend tip? I've never had to do it on standard barrel weights but this is my first FWT.
Phil

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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
You guys can keep bedding them with chidt under the chamber if you want, but in my experience they shoot much better with the barrel totally freefloated:
And my experience is exactly the opposite..

Post up your groups for comparison. I wont mind.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by TenX
Redneck
Do you put any pressure on the forend tip? I've never had to do it on standard barrel weights but this is my first FWT.
Phil
Nope - any fore-end pressure's eliminated..


Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
You guys can keep bedding them with chidt under the chamber if you want, but in my experience they shoot much better with the barrel totally freefloated:
And my experience is exactly the opposite..

Post up your groups for comparison. I wont mind.
I don't have to - but my customers can.. Just curious - but have you tried your rifles with just receiver, and then later with receiver + 1-2" of shank bedding and noted the difference?? Show me those groups and differences..

Last edited by Redneck; 07/13/21.

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BSA, You are painting with a pretty broad brush. There are years of back issues of Precision Shooting where experimenters have glued sporting weight rifles in the stock, about as close as you can get to full contact bedding, and gotten excellent results, accurate enough to compete in benchrest. Several nationally ranked competitors went so far as to glue in the barrel and full float the action. So by all means, full float if it works for you, but don't try to sell it as the 'only' way. There are many techniques for skinning a cat.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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wink


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Well, I have success. I left the bedding as it was and started messing with bullet seating depth. So it appears, my normal method of bedding Mod 70's is good for both standard weight barrels and FWT barrels, at least in this instance.

I'm going to quit while I'm ahead. Shot the first 100 yd group, made some scope adjustments then the second one after the barrel had cooled. It was hot out today. Yes, I know they aren't 5 shot groups but again this is a hunting rifle so I figure I'm good to go. Thanks for all the input guys.
Phil


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Last edited by TenX; 07/20/21.
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that should get the job done, enjoy your classy rifle.

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TenX, What chambering is the rifle and what bullets are you running?

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