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kenacp Offline OP
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I was given a 70yr old Winchester model 63 to clean up and inspect. The gun was covered with a light freckling of rust. Soaked it in some oil for a few days, then did a light scrubbing with 4- 0 steel wool. A good amount of the rust came off, but would like to get some more off without taking off the blue. Local hardware has some copper(bronze) very fine scrubbing wool. Would this be the next step for me to try? Other safe methods?
Thanks

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Take an EMPTY cartridge case, flatten the mouth with a hammer, use that edge to scrape the bbl., wherever, it will look like you are marring the blue, just wipe after with an oiled cloth........... it works!

You can form the edge to the contour of the bbl, and ever file it to get a nice edge if you like.............

Try it....

Let us know how it works......

Pics please....

Last edited by Muffin; 07/14/21.

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Frontier Big .45 metal cleaning pad is your friend when it comes to rust removal. Don't let anyone tell you that a pot scrubber is the same thing, they most dertainly ARE NOT ! The Frontier pad is made of a proprietary metal that will not remove blue. A customer gave me a S & W M/10 that had spent several decades in a leather holster hidden away under the fiberglas insulation in his attic. It was a mass of rust and I had my doubts, the Frontier pad worked like magic. Removed nearly all the rust and did not harm the blue, the customer couldn't believe it was the same gun he had given me.

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I second the Big 45 pads. They almost seem like magic. Good for the bore too.

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Funny (not so funny) story, Years ago I was working in a gun store and had a good customer bring in a shotgun that had light surface rust on it. He ask how to get it off, so I took a small piece of 4 0000 steel wool and put some oil on it and did a small spot to show him that this would do the trick.
A week or so later he comes back into the store and he is pissed. He shows me the gun and it is about down to bear metal. I ask him "what did you do"? He tells me that he had some 2 00 steel wool so he decided to use that instead of buying 4 0000.
I told him that was his first mistake and ask him what type of oil he used? That is when he said "oh crap, I forgot about the oil"!
Well I would have quit rubbing long before I got to bear metal and most likely would have quit when I say I was scratching the bluing.

I have not tried the Big 45 pad but next time I am at a gun store will be looking for one.


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the chore boy bronze wool works well as does the big 45 pads. never tried the cartridge case method but dont see why it also wouldnt work. if the bronze wool leaves an orange film rub it with any copper removing bore solvent and then oil.

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Originally Posted by gunswizard
Frontier Big .45 metal cleaning pad is your friend when it comes to rust removal. Don't let anyone tell you that a pot scrubber is the same thing, they most dertainly ARE NOT ! The Frontier pad is made of a proprietary metal that will not remove blue. A customer gave me a S & W M/10 that had spent several decades in a leather holster hidden away under the fiberglas insulation in his attic. It was a mass of rust and I had my doubts, the Frontier pad worked like magic. Removed nearly all the rust and did not harm the blue, the customer couldn't believe it was the same gun he had given me.



I appreciate the clarification on this. I'm one of the knuckle-heads who purchased a pot scrubber for Wal-Mart thinking it was the same thing. Thankfully, I hadn't used it yet.

I guess Christmas is coming early for the wife this year. grin


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That would make a great stocking stuffer......lol


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I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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Spitballing it from a different direction: If a gun is that rusty that it requires egregious attempts at rust removal, its value is greatly diminished anyway so why not just take it down to bare metal, remove all traces of pitting (and if it's that rusty that the best you can hope to do is to camouflage it, there's at least slight pitting underneath it), and re-blue it. It'll still be of diminished value, but likely more valuable than if left as a semi-rusty specimen not to mention looking better.

Cost is a consideration? Do the polishing by hand with abrasives by starting with a coarse-ish grit to quickly accomplish the goal of clear steel and then work down through successively finer grits simply enough to remove the previous grit's scratches, then rust blue it yourself (or take it somewhere and get them to put it in their bluing tanks when they're doing another job- most of the pro's charges stem from polishing). An onerous thankless task, sure, but there's a lot of self satisfaction when beholding the final product and knowing you did it all yourself and for a fraction of what you would have paid a pro to do it.

And then, don't let it get rusty again!


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Originally Posted by pullit
That would make a great stocking stuffer......lol


It would, but the wife is getting the pot scrubbers I purchased and I will be getting.....well, nothing after that stunt, lol.


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Originally Posted by damnesia


I second the Big 45 pads. They almost seem like magic. Good for the bore too.


Another second from me. I got a great deal on a 1936 Mexican SR Mauser that had a dark bore. A piece of Big 45 pad on an old/worn brush that was chucked into a cordless drill cleaned up the bore so well that I sold the rifle in its original configuration for about 50% more than I paid for it, rather than use it for a donor action as was the original plan.

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checked my local GS today and they don't have it. Will check a couple of other places this weekend and if I can't find one, will order one the first of the week.
I like to buy local when I can


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I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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kenacp Offline OP
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Thanks for the tips. Just ordered the 45pad.

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I soak it in my electrical charged tanks 0000 bronze wool and Trans fuild works too

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Originally Posted by StudDuck
Originally Posted by pullit
That would make a great stocking stuffer......lol


It would, but the wife is getting the pot scrubbers I purchased and I will be getting.....well, nothing after that stunt, lol.


You will be lucky to get a lump of lignite, my man! Maybe peat.


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I have found that wiping the rusty area down with DOT 3 break fluid will and letting it sit for a while greatly softens rust. after a couple hours wipe off what you can and do it again. Surface rust goes away easily, if you have real rust problems make other plans.


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I usually take a graduated approach, depending on how bad it looks, how valuable/important the gun is, and do I want to actually refinish it or just make it decently serviceable. If it doesn’t look too extreme, I’ll generally try a coarse, heavy cloth with some Kroil. Kano labs (makers of Kroil) also have a product called”Ex-Rust” that will remove rust. To get more aggressive, I like Brownell’s Oxpho blue applied gently with 0000 steel wool. Often that process can clean up/cover up spots of rust.


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Originally Posted by cra1948
I usually take a graduated approach, depending on how bad it looks, how valuable/important the gun is, and do I want to actually refinish it or just make it decently serviceable. If it doesn’t look too extreme, I’ll generally try a coarse, heavy cloth with some Kroil. Kano labs (makers of Kroil) also have a product called”Ex-Rust” that will remove rust. To get more aggressive, I like Brownell’s Oxpho blue applied gently with 0000 steel wool. Often that process can clean up/cover up spots of rust.


In your experience, does Ex-Rust affect the bluing underneath?

I have a lot of respect for Kano Labs and would be willing to give this a try as well.


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The Big 45 pads work. I ordered some a couple of weeks ago after reading the comments above and they do what they say.


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