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Jshass Offline OP
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Hello Everyone,

This is my first post to a forum, so I hope it's in the right place. I have read as much as I can find on this, but have not found what I'm looking for. Have come here with hope.

Here's my situation in as few words as possible...

Sako 85 Classic, 300 WSM
Swarovski Z5 2.4-12 x 50
Sako Optilock Ringmounts
Federal Fusion 150gr

I do not plan on hunting much past 200 yards or so.

Most of my hunting experience is birds. I don't have a very convenient place for shooting a rifle, so I have only had three sessions of shooting this one.

I find most math to be witchcraft, and really struggle to wrap my head around this kind of thing... I sighted in this rifle as I have been taught. Zero at 25 yards on full magnification. I have been led to believe that it should then be 2-3" high at 100 yards... this may well be incorrect, so please give any and all advice you are willing.

On all occasions, I was making groups at 25 that are representative of my ability, but when going out to 100 yards, was regularly 6" high. This seems well out of expected elevation change. I have not shot further than this, as I am not sure about the current results.

Thoughts on this?? Am I wrong about my expectations? If I am not, what could be the cause of this significant difference?

Current situation in the world means I can only get my hands on this one type of ammunition.

Please forgive my ignorance on these things. I may have left out some, or many important details. Thank you for your insight!

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If you’re shooting 6” high at 100 but grouping well, just zero your rifle at 100, probably around 2” high, and it will get you close to dead on at 200. The 2-3” high at 100 from a 25 yard zero is a guideline, not infallible. It will vary with trajectory or height of the crosshairs above bore centerline or a number of other factors. The 25 yard zero is just to get you on paper so you can zero at the preferred range. BTW, welcome to the fire!

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Don't get hung up on numbers and what you have read or been told. 25 yds is used to get you on paper at 100 yds. From there make your scope adjustments at 100 yds to get your point of impact 1 1/2 to 2 inches high and you will be good to go. That is a very nice set up you have and should serve you well. Check it at 200yds and it should be close to the center.
Have a great day.
Jim

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Jshass Offline OP
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Thanks so much for the quick replys! After my sighting outings I started to read about people running out of room with Sakos, but am admittedly very new to the rifle world. I worried that I had a real problem... But I guess it sounds like no big deal. I'll try zeroing at 100, and then going to 2, and see where I'm at. Some of my hunting is in dense woods, with 50yard shots... So I worry about zeroing at 100, then shooting well under, or wounding. I guess it's all about knowing your equipment at that point

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If zero'ed at 200, it'll be real close at 50.....

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Originally Posted by Jshass
Hello Everyone,

This is my first post to a forum, so I hope it's in the right place. I have read as much as I can find on this, but have not found what I'm looking for. Have come here with hope.

Here's my situation in as few words as possible...

Sako 85 Classic, 300 WSM
Swarovski Z5 2.4-12 x 50
Sako Optilock Ringmounts
Federal Fusion 150gr

I do not plan on hunting much past 200 yards or so.

Most of my hunting experience is birds. I don't have a very convenient place for shooting a rifle, so I have only had three sessions of shooting this one.

I find most math to be witchcraft, and really struggle to wrap my head around this kind of thing... I sighted in this rifle as I have been taught. Zero at 25 yards on full magnification. I have been led to believe that it should then be 2-3" high at 100 yards... this may well be incorrect, so please give any and all advice you are willing.

On all occasions, I was making groups at 25 that are representative of my ability, but when going out to 100 yards, was regularly 6" high. This seems well out of expected elevation change. I have not shot further than this, as I am not sure about the current results.

Thoughts on this?? Am I wrong about my expectations? If I am not, what could be the cause of this significant difference?

Current situation in the world means I can only get my hands on this one type of ammunition.

Please forgive my ignorance on these things. I may have left out some, or many important details. Thank you for your insight!



Who cares about 25 yards. My goal when sighting at 25 yards is to get it on paper at 100, so I can properly sight in. Just sight it in where you want it at 100 yards and you should be good to go.

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Originally Posted by Oakster
Originally Posted by Jshass
Hello Everyone,

This is my first post to a forum, so I hope it's in the right place. I have read as much as I can find on this, but have not found what I'm looking for. Have come here with hope.

Here's my situation in as few words as possible...

Sako 85 Classic, 300 WSM
Swarovski Z5 2.4-12 x 50
Sako Optilock Ringmounts
Federal Fusion 150gr

I do not plan on hunting much past 200 yards or so.

Most of my hunting experience is birds. I don't have a very convenient place for shooting a rifle, so I have only had three sessions of shooting this one.

I find most math to be witchcraft, and really struggle to wrap my head around this kind of thing... I sighted in this rifle as I have been taught. Zero at 25 yards on full magnification. I have been led to believe that it should then be 2-3" high at 100 yards... this may well be incorrect, so please give any and all advice you are willing.

On all occasions, I was making groups at 25 that are representative of my ability, but when going out to 100 yards, was regularly 6" high. This seems well out of expected elevation change. I have not shot further than this, as I am not sure about the current results.

Thoughts on this?? Am I wrong about my expectations? If I am not, what could be the cause of this significant difference?

Current situation in the world means I can only get my hands on this one type of ammunition.

Please forgive my ignorance on these things. I may have left out some, or many important details. Thank you for your insight!



Who cares about 25 yards. My goal when sighting at 25 yards is to get it on paper at 100, so I can properly sight in. Just sight it in where you want it at 100 yards and you should be good to go.

Same here. One shot to get it on paper at 25 yards and then zero it at the desired range. For a 300 WSM I don’t see how you could go wrong with a 200 yard zero.

Nice rifle and optic you have there OP.

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Jshass Offline OP
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Thanks everyone for the warm welcome and kind remarks. I really appreciate the peace of mind by your consistent advice!

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All the advice above is right on. 25 yrds is just to get you on paper. Zero it at 100 or 200 and practice.


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Originally Posted by old70
If you’re shooting 6” high at 100 but grouping well, just zero your rifle at 100, probably around 2” high, and it will get you close to dead on at 200. The 2-3” high at 100 from a 25 yard zero is a guideline, not infallible. It will vary with trajectory or height of the crosshairs above bore centerline or a number of other factors. The 25 yard zero is just to get you on paper so you can zero at the preferred range. BTW, welcome to the fire!

Old 70


Not to get too far into the weeds, but you do not say whether your rifle is pre-enjoyed or new. Some barrels require "fouling in".

Also, your "rest" is not mentioned.

YMMV, but I find that "Magnums that shoot 3,100 FPS, plus, typically shoot 1" to 1.5" high at 100 yds. when zero'd at 200 yds.

If I'm correct the 300 WSM 150 Gr. Federal Fusion have a MV of +/- 3,300 FPS, and a decent Ballistic Coefficient.

As an aside there are innumerable references that calculate/provide trajectory info should you decide to shoot further than 200 yds.

Like others here, I get on paper @ 25 yds. Some rifles I only shoot 100 yds or less, others I set up to stretch out a bit further.

Next I zero, typically 1" to 1.5" high at 100, then zero at 200 yds. Once I'm satisfied with a group @ 200 yds, I then go back an shoot @ 100 yds and make note of the POI vs. POA. Some may disagree, but since you are shooting factory ammo, I'd say there is no reason to shoot five shot groups "all day long. Most Sako's I've dealt with will be "fouled in" with a dozen rounds or so.

Once the POI is to my satisfaction I like to either wait for the barrel to cool completely or even come back a second time and check the POI, first shot out of a cold barrel fired at the same distance as before. Once again, opinions vary, but I do not clean the barrel down to bare metal once I have the barrel fouled in and zero'd before I hunt.

You will know soon whether your Sako likes the federal fusion.

If you are planning on using your rifle to hunt rather than to see how small of groups you can punch on paper, I would not get too anal about achieving sub-inch groups @ 100. If your intended target has an 8" kill zone a 2 MOA shooter will do all you need @ 200 yds.

When you know ya' know, and ya' know you know, confidence replaces fear. Hard to beat OJT.

Believe it or not 100 yds. makes a difference, so as Kingston says "get out there and practice"


ya!

GWB



Last edited by geedubya; 07/25/21.

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OP didn't state whether his/her Z5 had the BT Turret, but I will forward this tidbit.

When making elevation adjustments on a Swarovski scope (Z3. Z5, and Z6) with the BT Turret, do yourself a favor and use the include "BT tool". You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and ammo. I've run into a number of folk that have neglected the use of the BT tool, and unknowingly run up against the zero-stop when making adjustments. Guilty of this myself.


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I have the same gun, one of three. Love it! It shoots 1/2” @ 100 yards. That guarantee of 5 shots under an inch is true.


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