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Kind of a generic rant/question.

I have a Lexus IS250 AWD. I noticed some oil drips and it smelled like gear oil. Real hard to see a lot under there since its so low to the ground. I couldn't tell where the oil was coming from because of course it smeared all over. I suspected pinion seal. I took it to Lexus thinking it would be no big deal to diagnose. They quoted me $2300 and said they had to pull the motor and tranny to get to it! I have never heard of such a cluster F in my life.

I contacted another shop that only deals with Toyota and Lexus. They quoted me $785 and said you don't have to pull the motor and tranny.

I am going to jack it up this weekend and try to see if it is doable myself. I have done similar seals before on my Tacoma and it wasn't a big deal. You literally unbolt drive shaft, pull flange, hook the gasket and replace.

Assuming you don't have to pull the motor, why in the F would Lexus say that? I can see a private garage trying to screw some dumbass, but seems like the dealer would not play that game. What am I missing here?

GB1

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Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Kind of a generic rant/question.

I have a Lexus IS250 AWD. I noticed some oil drips and it smelled like gear oil. Real hard to see a lot under there since its so low to the ground. I couldn't tell where the oil was coming from because of course it smeared all over. I suspected pinion seal. I took it to Lexus thinking it would be no big deal to diagnose. They quoted me $2300 and said they had to pull the motor and tranny to get to it! I have never heard of such a cluster F in my life.

I contacted another shop that only deals with Toyota and Lexus. They quoted me $785 and said you don't have to pull the motor and tranny.

I am going to jack it up this weekend and try to see if it is doable myself. I have done similar seals before on my Tacoma and it wasn't a big deal. You literally unbolt drive shaft, pull flange, hook the gasket and replace.

Assuming you don't have to pull the motor, why in the F would Lexus say that? I can see a private garage trying to screw some dumbass, but seems like the dealer would not play that game. What am I missing here?

Dealer will usually screw you. pinion seal if you can get to is easy to replace, at least the ones I've done.


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Thanks, did you have to worry about preload on the nut when tightening back up?

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They’re not called stealerships for nothing.



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Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Thanks, did you have to worry about preload on the nut when tightening back up?



Most of them you do, otherwise you will be replacing a differential soon. Get the specs and see what it takes, I would not guess.


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If its for myself, i mark the nut position with a punch or chisel and re use the old nut, tighten to mark. Yeah, you're supposed to use a new but and set proper preload and all that but who's got time for that..

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Yes, this should help, you don't want to get it too tight and burn up the pinion bearing.



God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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do yourself a favor and buy, or borrow (autizone?)the tool to hold the yoke while you turn the nut.
band steel is not rigid enough.


-OMotS



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Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "

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Campfire 'Bwana
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looks like you should be able to get to it without pulling the motor.



God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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I'd change the U-joint while I had it apart .

I subscribed to Rain City Wrench ---> thx Roger !


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Originally Posted by stxhunter
looks like you should be able to get to it without pulling the motor.


Thanks for the link!


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