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I’ve done something similar in the past. I’d turn the screws every so often until the epoxy set. Not near the quality of Al’s work, but I’m not competing. Just piddlin’. If I go with the Mauser pillars I’ll bore the holes slightly larger than the pillars and add a little tape to the screws to keep them centered. Southern engineering to be sure…. Or, someone take the 308 barreled action off my hands and I’ll buy that old 8x57 Mauser I’ve got spotted out…..
Last edited by John_Boy; 10/16/21.
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I've had good luck using 3/8" threaded lamp rods. Available most everywhere & inexpensive.
Yep I've used threaded lamp tubing too , not aluminum though.
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I may have to see what Lowe’s has in stock…..
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When I first heard about pillars I started boring the action screw holes larger than before. Glass bedded the screws (with release in the screws). Then I bored the holes to free the screws. The result was a cylinder of glass bedding around the screws. I have not done that in a long time. I still wonder why that won’t work. You don't want any contact between the action screws and the pillar. That acts as a 'recoil lug' and is an accuracy killer and a good way to break the stock around the pillars. -Al
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John Boy: is this a 700 you're working with? -Al
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Al, Thank you for your help. Yes, it’s a Remington 700. Is pillar to action / bottom metal contact acceptable?
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I was pillar bedding rifles in 1971; using cast fiberglass pillars. Did my first glass stock in 1976 and did it the same way. Today, my preference is still to use glass but I also use aluminum or steel. I have also milled full length bedding blocks. By the way, U usually drill the holes out to 9/16 to cast the pillars; this dependent on the action. GD
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Thanks greydog. Most people here have far more experience with firearms than me. I’m not aware of everyone’s careers , or experience so occasionally I offend with my limited input. No intent to offend, just unaware of others knowledge and experience. That’s why I ask even simple questions that the average shooter may know. I’m willing to listen even to rookies. Sometimes great ideas come from the youngest….. I’ve never heard of doing pillars as you describe, however I can see the merit in the idea. Might be a good alternative.
I am the way, the truth, and the life: no one comes to the Father but by me. John 14:6
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Al, Thank you for your help. Yes, it’s a Remington 700. Is pillar to action / bottom metal contact acceptable? Yes...you want the bottom metal firmly in contact. I bed the bottom metal to the pillars. If it's an ADL style stock....are you going on top of an existing escutcheon or will the pillar be flush with the bottom of the stock? Or is it a BDL bottom metal stock that you're doing? Also...do you have the capability to enlarge the action screw holes in the stock to 5/8" and keep them positioned correctly? -Al
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Al, It’s a BDL stock. I no longer have a drill press. I had planned on using the High Score pillars. A piloted 5/8th bit would be used. Final fitting with a rasp. This is the stock. It’s heavy, but it helps mitigate the recoil. I do have a H&S stock with an aluminum frame that’s available to me if the trade with this stock doesn’t fall through.
Last edited by John_Boy; 10/17/21.
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If you send me the stock and bottom metal, I'll make the pillar holes on the mill, make two pillars and epoxy them in for you. -Al
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I had originally posted the question to get fellow fire members to share their opinions on the best pillars to use on a rifle stock. We’ve seen answers ranging from lamp rods to Mauser ferrules to Score high. Al Nyhus responded with pictures of his work. Now, I’m not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think the question has been well answered. My stock heads out to Al tomorrow. I’ll post pictures when she returns. Especially of the groups…
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When I first heard about pillars I started boring the action screw holes larger than before. Glass bedded the screws (with release in the screws). Then I bored the holes to free the screws. The result was a cylinder of glass bedding around the screws. I have not done that in a long time. I still wonder why that won’t work. I still bed all mine this way. I bore them 7/16 of a inch and after removal bore the screw holes .250. My guns all shoot very well and hold their zeros
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Gladly you were saved from Lowes....
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So true….. I can’t wait to see the results…
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Make my own.
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I've had good luck using 3/8" threaded lamp rods. Available most everywhere & inexpensive.
I bought some of those with the intention of using them, but never did. They're kinda' thin walled though. Years ago I ran across some thick wall aluminum tubing that works great. I don't let the pillar touch the action, instead have a bit of bedding compound between the two for a more precise fit.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
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I mostly make my own pillars too. Stainless barrels cutoffs make great pillars . Generally, with pillars, tight is tight. I usually break my rifles down for airline travel. Pillars are a must. I can put them together with just a screwdriver and they will be dead on. Torqueing them is fine but not necessary
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