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My Sparrow had several hundred rounds through it when I pulled it apart. Used an ultrasonic cleaner and Simple Green and brass brushes. Got alot of the carbon off. Went to my blaster with soda medium. Got the rest of the carbon and some of the lead. Still had substantial lead build up in the crevices. Was hesitant to resort to "The Dip", but finally did. 24 hrs in the jar and it looks like new now.


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I have an AAC Element 2. I pull the baffles out of the tube and place them in a Thumblers Tumbler for 8 to 10hrs. Inside the Tumbler I used the little stainless pins & lemon shine. They come out squeaky clean.

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First off, hopefully you're working with a serviceable can - one that you can take apart - especially for .22s and .17s. As Scoony pointed out, they foul cans quicker than any other caliber/cartridge. I have soaked, sonic, scrubbed enough to know that while all the aforementioned methods work to some degree, a pin tumbler is by far the easiest method.

I have a Dead Air Mask and Sparrow for .22 LR. When they get crudded up, I dissemble and throw them into a Hornady rotary tumbler with pins and solvent - I use KG-1 Carbon Remover as it's aggressive but won't attack metals. Make sure you do not have any aluminum parts or Cerakote coatings as some solvents will attack it.

But when I am finished cleaning, I soak the parts in Dot 5 brake fluid. I forgot where I picked this up, but Dot 5 is silicone based and it helps to prevent carbon fouling. And it works. Also, I use Loctite high temperature anti-seize when reassembling parts. Another lesson learned.


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Originally Posted by STRSWilson
First off, hopefully you're working with a serviceable can - one that you can take apart - especially for .22s and .17s. As Scoony pointed out, they foul cans quicker than any other caliber/cartridge. I have soaked, sonic, scrubbed enough to know that while all the aforementioned methods work to some degree, a pin tumbler is by far the easiest method.

I have a Dead Air Mask and Sparrow for .22 LR. When they get crudded up, I dissemble and throw them into a Hornady rotary tumbler with pins and solvent - I use KG-1 Carbon Remover as it's aggressive but won't attack metals. Make sure you do not have any aluminum parts or Cerakote coatings as some solvents will attack it.

But when I am finished cleaning, I soak the parts in Dot 5 brake fluid. I forgot where I picked this up, but Dot 5 is silicone based and it helps to prevent carbon fouling. And it works. Also, I use Loctite high temperature anti-seize when reassembling parts. Another lesson learned.



Gonna try the Dot 5

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Originally Posted by vbshootinrange


I've got 250-300 rounds through my suppressor and haven't cleaned it yet.

Was told that 500 round cleanings were the norm.

If it starts going "bang" instead of "pop" I'll clean it, or go to 500 rounds.

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a little silicone dieelectric grease works like dot 5.....

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Interesting!


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I have a plastic folgers coffee container filled with brake cleaner. I just disassemble my suppressor and let it soak overnight. Next day it cleans up great just using a nylon brush. I use my suppressor for squirrel hunting and shooting coons and armadillos. One cleaning a year works for me. Ymmv.

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There are lots of brake cleaners out there. Some are much more aggressive than others and can etch aluminum, anodized surfaces, power coated surfaces, and Cerakote coatings. So proceed cautiously if trying it for the first time. But I am sure it works as it will clean most anything including brakes.


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Originally Posted by OSU_Sig
A buddy of mine takes his apart and soaks it in carbon remover all night.


Yep, slip 2000 is some good stuff

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Originally Posted by dennisinaz
Ultra sonic cleaner won't hurt the finish of you use the right cleaning chemicals. No worse than doing it by hand. I just use simple green. Doesn't seem to bother the finish



I did a black 10/22 receiver in one with just a couple squirts of simple green. removed the finish. But it was fine though, ended up stripping it all the way and doing a clear lacquer on it.

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"plug the front and fill the suppressor with CLR"

What do you use to plug the front? Maybe a rolled up ear plug?

Sounds like this might work pretty good, filling it and standing it on end over night, then disassemble and wipe down the baffles?

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Unless you have experienced suppressor fouling, it is difficult to comprehend how much carbon and lead fouling occurs. Soaking may remove some of the easy stuff, the rest is the tough stuff to remove and it doesn't wipe off.


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Sounds like to much sugar for a nickel. Believe I’ll stick with hearing protection. Hasbeen


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