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What I recall is to swab it 4 times and let it sit horizontally and rotate it 45 degrees each time you let it sit. Be sure to plug the chamber.

I intentionally did the chamber and would only recommend this for use in severe weather. It acts like an oily bore, I will use JB and steel wool to remove some and to get circumferential scratches.

Here is another product which is not as refined as DTB but is cheaper. Their instructions are pretty simple. http://www.sweetshooter.com/order.html


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Originally Posted by Tejano
Be sure to plug the chamber.



That mistake was painful for me in 2019.


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I dipped every time . I recently did an old 38-55 lever Winchester, with dark bore, from the muzzle.Stuffed the action with paper towels.I cleaned the barrel with several a different solvents and brush and used JB bore paste.When the patches came out clean or darn close , I degreased and applied the DT with a mop. Let it set overnight muzzle down and then fired about a dozen rounds thru it..
I cleaned it again for about 45 minutes and took it to the range again after a few days

Another 30 rounds and I wasn't getting any key holeing which I expect was from really excessive lead fouling.
However it did take me another 30minutes to clean and I gave up when patches were still showing some signs .
Email to Muledeer and he said it should get better.

Time will tell and I need to get some bigger diameter cast bullets.


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Originally Posted by Clarkm
Originally Posted by Tejano
Be sure to plug the chamber.



That mistake was painful for me in 2019.


What was your fix for this?


"When you disarm the people, you commence to offend them and show that you distrust them either through cowardice or lack of confidence, and both of these opinions generate hatred." Niccolo Machiavelli
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Keep shooting and strong arm extracting and the crud in the chamber eventually goes away.... the lumpy high points anyway.


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A friend made the same mistake way back when the compound was gray, not clear. I took it out of his chamber with a bronze bore-brush, spun with a drill motor. Since the silica in the compound only melts under the high heat of by powder gas, the only thing that hardens inside the chamber is the liquid glue carrying the silica. The bore-brush took it right out, as could be clearly seen in my bore-scope.


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I see on their site that they use it on Molds. Anyone have an experience doing that?


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I coat all of my steel magazines with their Gun Shield and they are slick and seem to work very smooth as well as the added corrosion protection.

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tag for info


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I had some DBC left over that I decided to use on a factory-fresh Pedersoli Brown Bess.

My goodness! It was impressive. At first firing, I never saw so much crud come out with just a spit patch. Final cleanup was a breeze as well-- no need for a bronze brush.


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Where can one get the DBC nowadays? Can only find it on company’s website.

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There are several options. Do a search for “ceramic bore coatings”


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Mule Deer your writings got me into DBC. Have you been using any other coatings since DBC seems to no longer be available?
I’d be very interested in your testing results and what if any other bore coatings you’re using now.


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Haven't tried any others--partly because I use a lot of powders that include decoppering agents these days, and all the rifles I have that benefitted from DBC have already been treated.

My guess is neither Brownells or MidwayUSA sold enough DBC to make it worthwhile for them--or Dyna-Tek. This is probably also due to another factor: DBC works really well and lasts a long time after being installed.


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I did search … found no great results.

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Where to buy it?


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